Anything you are looking for say the 520 pantograph just click the parts # index to that # and scroll to 520. that would be page 4 it has the #'s
for 482-1U through 682-5. That part is listed as,
520-35 pantograph assy reproduction 6.50
Life Support Lionel 520
This is about checking an engine to get it running. I purchased two today one without a shell Package deal. Both old and dirty. Engine one ran an inch. Two was quiet. Both are running now. I took pictures and will describe how I administered life support. I cleaned the motor and e unit. A fun time.
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21 - 40 of 64 Posts
Rich,
I thought it was all for fun. Did I miss something, or do you N scalers not enjoy what you are doing?
I thought it was all for fun. Did I miss something, or do you N scalers not enjoy what you are doing?
Rich,
I thought it was all for fun. Did I miss something, or do you N scalers not enjoy what you are doing?
It is considered fun with O because you can actually see what your fixing.
(I have N also Rich)
I have two tabs on the other end, one screw.
I will say this motor does resemble a steam engine and it is one of the better threads to follow to clean up an old engine and check it to get it running. The skills here can be applied to all the electric motors and E units.
These motors are easy since they run without shells.
First I strip the shell and rods if bolted on. I remove gease. I clean and lube the armature and brush holder. Then with a jumper I bench test the motor. Then I clean the e unit. I clean the wheels up and track test it. I determine how the drum works. On the track the axles normally squeak and need oil too. On a good day twenty minutes, if I have no problems. Stuck screws are the worst problem and when working on an engine for the first time. If the screw head gets damaged and it does not turn you need to think about te fact that "Do you really need it removed?" I removed one from a side gear plate on a 1666 motor. I used a torch and got lucky. So on assembly use oil and don't overtighten. If the engine has rod nuts check them after running. They are not easy to find on a table. I just found one I lost over a year ago.
I will say this motor does resemble a steam engine and it is one of the better threads to follow to clean up an old engine and check it to get it running. The skills here can be applied to all the electric motors and E units.
These motors are easy since they run without shells.
First I strip the shell and rods if bolted on. I remove gease. I clean and lube the armature and brush holder. Then with a jumper I bench test the motor. Then I clean the e unit. I clean the wheels up and track test it. I determine how the drum works. On the track the axles normally squeak and need oil too. On a good day twenty minutes, if I have no problems. Stuck screws are the worst problem and when working on an engine for the first time. If the screw head gets damaged and it does not turn you need to think about te fact that "Do you really need it removed?" I removed one from a side gear plate on a 1666 motor. I used a torch and got lucky. So on assembly use oil and don't overtighten. If the engine has rod nuts check them after running. They are not easy to find on a table. I just found one I lost over a year ago.
Here is how my 520 body attaches to the frame. Notice the screws next to the operating coupler and wheel assembly.
Also T-Man, you are missing more than a coupler. You are missing the "2" from what I guess was a "2-4-2" steamer setup.
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The Tandem Assoc page does not indicate any variation in the body mounting.
Also T-Man, you are missing more than a coupler. You are missing the "2" from what I guess was a "2-4-2" steamer setup.
The Tandem Assoc page does not indicate any variation in the body mounting.
Well now, they'd be wrong.
Note the screw, that's what holds the shell on. See below the chassis, and I can assure you no wheels were missing.
Attachments
The other end of my 520 has one screw also.
I was thinking the same thing Ed, they sure don't look stock. It's certainly possible that there were variations in the cab design, it's not like that's never happened with other models.
It's certainly possible that there were variations in the cab design, it's not like that's never happened with other models.
3
Some pictures of my shell.
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#520-5
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The blocks where the self tapping screws look like they have been added during the mold making process. They are a part of the original body.
The glue is looks like a repair when the blocks were split by overtightening the screws.
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No evidence of slots for the tabs.
FWIW
#520-5
The blocks where the self tapping screws look like they have been added during the mold making process. They are a part of the original body.
The glue is looks like a repair when the blocks were split by overtightening the screws.
No evidence of slots for the tabs.
FWIW
21 - 40 of 64 Posts
