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Perhaps not ... it depends on how hot/fried things got.

Per my post above, determine whether wiring is Type 1 or Type 2 (per what's grounded to the frame). Given that, you can jump-wire motor to run (with the e-unit disconnected or bypassed.) Post a pic, and we'll coach you from there.

TJ
 

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Thanks for great info on 520 restoration!

My dad gave me the Lionel set that contained the 520 engine back in 1956. A little internet research shows the entire set, with the 520 engine, a caboose, an enclosed freight car with "Baby Ruth" written on it, an open top coal car, and O27 track enough to make maybe a 2 meter oval, the whole set cost $19.95, which seems reasonable now, but was about a day's pay in wages for my dad back then. It must have been somewhat of a budget burden to afford this train set.

I used it on and off until 1962 probably, then back into the box it went for the next 50 years. Then one day last week I decided -- for no particular reason, other than it was a rainy day -- to find the box. Voila, there it was, the whole set -- except for missing one of the curved sections of track. I set up a semi-circle as not enough track for the whole loop, and put the 520 on the track, hooked up the transformer. Nothing. Wouldn't go.

But I found the directions in this thread, followed them, and over the weekend got the 520 running almost good as new. As soon as I can find a curved section of 027 track, I'll be back in business!

I always thought as a kid this 520 engine was a good one to have. The best in fact. It's non-compromising. It's not a pretender. Not a show boat. It's what it is. A workhorse. Reliable. And strong. Thanks so much for posting the restoration info.
 

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Re: Removing the frame from the engine.

On my 520, I had to first remove an "e" circ-clip, which allowed me to remove one of the couplers, then under that was an usually shaped nut-fastener that required me to use a 5/16 socket to unscrew it, then the engine easily unhinged from the frame, as my engine is only held onto the frame by that nut-fastener on one side, and metal tabs which insert into the frame on the other.
 
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