No iam not reinvent the wheel i was just wondering i didnt think about that thanks guys your the best. This why i like this forum.mo-pac has it. I run my accessories on a separate transformer, so there is no effect on my trains on a track. However, I have the old AF incandescent street lights, as a matter of fact, ALL my lighting is the old incandescent bulbs. That said, if I move a switch, sound a billboard whistle or horn, the lights dim. It's a nature of the beast. I suppose you could reinvent the wheel, but this is the 1950's all over again. My grandkids do ask, "Grampie, how come the lights do that??" "Everything is old, like Grampie!" flyer nut has a 440volt service coming into his house along with multiple step-up transformers. He also has direct wiring from Niagara Power and Light, so he NEVER has any dimming issues!!
Have 3 pair of track switches witch r on the main transformer witch is a 30b 300 dual watts thankyou for the infor i didnt about the other stuff.The turnouts should be on their own transformer and not more than 12 turnouts (6 pairs) on a 100W transformer like a 4B. Just the incandescent lights in the lanterns and the control boxes for 12 turnouts draw 4A and the max output of a 4B is 5A continuous, 6A instantaneous, but that is with a lot of output voltage sag (the cause of the dimming.) I have put 15 turnouts on one 4B transformer but it got really hot. When a solenoid is actuated to operate an accessory there will be some incandescent light dimming. Motorized accessories, like a log loader, have efficient motors and only will cause dimming if the transformer is overloaded.
Remember postwar transformers are input power rated. the continuous output power is 20% to 25% less than the nameplate rating. The dimming is a part of the charm of the postwar trains. I you absolutely want to eliminate it power the accessories with high current regulated power supplies. The postwar transformers are just two coils of wire wrapped around a core of stacked steel plates, They are completely unregulated and have a moderately high internal resistance.
Mopac, I too have a ZW 275 watt transformer but it is only for running trains, nothing else. Love it. Since I can control everything with my TMCC system, I have 2 1033 90 watt Lionel transformers to power switches separately if I choose. As Tom said, I have 12 switches hooked to one and 6 to another. My street lights, only 6, are also powered buy one of them. I do have 1 8b to power accessories. I have 2 18 B's and 2 other 8b's but not in use. The 18B was just too big to fit on my control stand with my ZW and the TMCC equipment. I thought it would provide all the power I would need plus look cool with those 2 handles. But not to be. Call me crazy but I do like the Lionel 1033's which I got free years ago and never used until I built my larger layout.Those items just do a power draw. Only way to get away from it would be to power lights with a separate transformer. Maybe a bigger transformer would help but I would guess you would still get some dimming. The more I think about it, a bigger transformer won't help. I
use a Lionel ZW, 275 watts, when a turnout is flipped, any locomotive running on track will
hesitate due to sudden power loss. Separate transformers is the answer. When I get a layout
I think I will run the turnouts with separate transformer. I do not like it effecting how loco is running. Dims the loco headlight also.
I forgot to mention the low 2 V starting point as another reason I use a ZW for train control. That sure makes for a nice slow running speed if needed. I checked eBay last night and the prices are all over the place for a ZW 275 watt transformer. Some are well over $200 and some are in the $150-$175 range.I much prefer the Lionel transformers. I can get the trains to run much slower with them.
Most Lionel start voltage is around 2 volts. Most AF start is around 7 volts. Big difference.
I love my ZW also. flyernut has 2 of them.