[T-Man]

The switch, notice to the right the slide did not go all the way to the right. When operating the bar on the left or right provides a connection. A simple way to test (off the track)the switch is to place the center rail contact from the transformer to the power post and use the u contact to each outer terminal on the switch. This grounds the coil to activate the switch one outer terminal one direction.

 

[T-Man]

The controller

To control the switch three wires are needed .One for each post. The controller swictch just grounds one outer post to the center post.

NEAT TRICK is to eliminate the center post connection.
Why run a wire all the way back to the switch??
Have all your controllers lined up and the center post wires connected together and attached to the U terminal. The controllers are probably next to your transformer anyway.

The switches will work better with the shorter ground.

I found the complete parts lists for the switch in the Lionel Supplementals 1-9 page 471 by adobe reader.

 

[T-Man]

Time to revive Bats

Actually not bats but the basses to the switches. It takes an 1/8 nutdriver to remove a couple of sheet metal screws to access the underside. That way I removed the rails for cleaning. This is extreme but the rust was bad. SO far I have on good motor out of three. One is broken at the lamp base the other is missing a switch connector.

The next picture is a cleaned piece, big difference.

Here is a starter waiting for cleaning.

The easiest way to test the motor coils is by using two leads. Connect one to the center red and one to a green to test. There are two, one for each direction. The rivet to the left between the green and red, is the feed from the track. The wire from the red, to the right is for the lamp.

 

[T-Man]

Rewired today. Struck while the iron was hot. The motor didn't test out, I have to check some connections. The coils work but I think the problem is in the slide connections.
I didn't finish the eunit today.

Here is an idea, how you can improve with just a little paint.

 

[T-Man]

The green arrow shows two sets of tabs. The left is for auto derailing and remains insulated from the rest. The bar gets soldered to the left. I checked these for continuity before installling the cover. One wire is replaced.

The copper piece is an insert conecting the two outer rails.

 

[T-Man]

Motor Test

I had one bad terminal and replaced it with a 4 -4- screw. I do not have any 4-36 screws.
I saved the plastic with super glue.

Next is the spring adjust If you have to touch the spring to make it work,instead of trying to make the spring work harder by bending. I went underneath and pushed the plate up for contact.

Of course to test, power to the center and the second touches a terminal to operate.

 

[T-Man]

I am busy cleaning switches. Not much excitement. Out of 7 in a box. One was a manual right. Another had no motor. I can get 4 motors working. One had a broken terminal that was replaced. The lamp swivel was missing a tooth and was removed. This switch will work without it. One motor was missing a copper spring connector that needs a rivet to replace. Non fixable at this time. So I can get four working. I am cleaning all of them and will keep an eye out for motors and parts. SO far after cleaning 15 switches I have yet to find one with a bad coil.

My process for the rusty ones

Remove screws, motor and back plate. clean and dry lub fasteners.

Motor:
Inspect for missing pieces Be sure not to loose the tiny spring required for the lock bar!!!
sand and paint underside.
remove wires including bulb wire
clean the plate
dry lube the plate(prevent rusting)(remember graphite conducts electricity) DO not use on coils or on the insulating paper under the slide contacts.
mod podge the paper on the coils
Clean electrical connections on the slide
test coils
add wires
test motor

switch:
unsolder joints remove wire
remove rails
Wire brush rails
scrub frog and a contact bar on switch
soapy water wash switch
remove rust on bottom contacts
assemble rails
solder joints and add new wire
Add paper to insulate contacts from the bottom plate with date serviced.
add bottom plate after sanding and painting
assemble whole switch and test. Add pins.

 

[Stillakid]

T-Man, tell us the truth, what do you do in your, "Spare Time?"
I don't think I have the patience to do that kind of intricate work(much less the memory!)

 

[Stillakid]

By The way, "Nice Job!!!!"

 

[T-Man]

It's easy after 3 or 4. I refer to the manual occasionally. These are the worst I have seen. The ebays( first time) were listed as junk, and I didn't have to take one apart. Beats paying 30 for each one. I guess this is one area where to draw the line and ask is it worth it? To me ,it is, just to prove it can be done.

 

[theedudenator]

How are you cleaning the rails?
What type of wire brush should I get?

 

[T-Man]

A wire brush mounted on a motor is heavy duty . A wire wheel will work with track. Because of the plastic I removed the rails and did them piecemeal. A good grip is required. The safer way is to use scotchbrite pads or a dremel wire wheel.Dremel also makes a stripping wheel of scotchbrite that may work too because of it's size.

This is my antique. I use only with severe rust. This brush was only a dollar at big lots. It has cleaned about 5 switches so far.

 

[tjcruiser]

And leather gloves, and goggles, right ...

I used a brass brush wheel mounted in my drill press to clean some track, recently. Worked nice on the outer layer of heavy rust. But leather gloves for a strong grip and goggles to keep my peepers safe seemed like a must.

 

[RichT]

Goggles yes.... those flying wires will really do some damage.... and wear shot sleeves and take off the tie

I use a flip down face shield.... since I got a wire into my forehead once...

T-man, Wow that is a serious tool ya got there.... rust doesn't stand a chance

 

[T-Man]

I like it because I can slow it with pressure. It can grab and fling. I am currently revampiing it.

I bet I could pull some cars with a 120 v motor!!!!!!!!! 1/50 hp.

 

[T-Man]

Another bit

I did locate a manual switch lever for an 042 manual switch. I thought I would share in it's complexity.

 

[T-Man]

Motor after cleaning

The motor after I cleaned it, painted the exterior and changed the plug. I also oiled the board too.

 

[Big Ed]

You ought to put this on a DVD/CD and market it along with all your other fix-it threads!:thumbsup:

Or a book? (manual)
Got to have lots of color pictures. Everyone loves pictures along with an explained detailed description.

THE T_MAN SUPER DUPER REPAIR manual/plus.

Now the big question?

Where you going to put all of the switches?:laugh:

Plus it's one thing getting them all in tip top shape, but with old switches the important thing is how do they operate with a train running through them. I have some issues with certain things running through some of mine. Nothing like a nice new switch. I just wish they weren't that darn expensive!

Heck I would bet your book would be better then some of the Classic Toy Train manuals that they put out! Did you ever see some of them?:thumbsdown:

I will be your marketing agent.

I like the old manual switches. I got a few some where.

I want to add I am no way putting down your work, those babies look like new considering how they looked in the first place.:thumbsup:

I will send you a box to do for me.:laugh:

 

[tjcruiser]

T-Man,

VERY nice job on that motor. My memory's a bit fuzzy here, but that armature and windings looks very similar to the motor that's in our old Electrolux vacuum cleaner! The thing's ancient, and runs like a charm!

Nice springs in the switch lever ... high tech, huh?!?

Big Ed ... per your comment ...

I have some issues with certain things running through some of mine. Nothing like a nice new switch.

I have "issues", too ... but with relatively NEW Lionel manual switches. I had just posted this comment on another thread, but I'll repeat it here, if that's OK ...

"I've just begun running my old Lionel locos (1668 prewar, 221 postwar) on relatively new Lionel manual switches ... the brown kind ... I can't remember the part number right now. Both of these locos are having problems running over the switches. The trailing trucks appear to be making electric contact with both the center (hot) rail and the outer (ground) rail as they drive over the middle section of the switch, where things split left/right. It causes a short, which makes the "smart" transformer drop voltage, which -- in turn -- makes the E-unit switch direction. A bit frustrating. I need to explore exactly what touching what in more detail to investigate and debug."

As stated, I need to do a bit more detective work, but somethings causing a short when these old locos run the new switch.

Any specific things I should be looking for?

Thanks guys!!!

TJ

 

[Big Ed]

T-Man,

VERY nice job on that motor. My memory's a bit fuzzy here, but that armature and windings looks very similar to the motor that's in our old Electrolux vacuum cleaner! The thing's ancient, and runs like a charm!

Nice springs in the switch lever ... high tech, huh?!?

Big Ed ... per your comment ...



I have "issues", too ... but with relatively NEW Lionel manual switches. I had just posted this comment on another thread, but I'll repeat it here, if that's OK ...

"I've just begun running my old Lionel locos (1668 prewar, 221 postwar) on relatively new Lionel manual switches ... the brown kind ... I can't remember the part number right now. Both of these locos are having problems running over the switches. The trailing trucks appear to be making electric contact with both the center (hot) rail and the outer (ground) rail as they drive over the middle section of the switch, where things split left/right. It causes a short, which makes the "smart" transformer drop voltage, which -- in turn -- makes the E-unit switch direction. A bit frustrating. I need to explore exactly what touching what in more detail to investigate and debug."

As stated, I need to do a bit more detective work, but somethings causing a short when these old locos run the new switch.

Any specific things I should be looking for?

Thanks guys!!!

TJ

Are these the switches?



The only problem I have with these is that some of my older engines jump the rail sometimes going through them.
And others go through just fine.
I bought them new too.
I don't really like the way they throw the switch and hold the point tight.:thumbsdown:

I would think it's in your engine somehow. Do you have any newer engines to run through them?