[Riggzie]

So I have everything running that was given to me by my friend. 1 switcher (624) and 4 locomotives. This guy is the 5th locomotive and I couldnt get it to work. Being new to trains, I wasnt sure why it wasnt working. I noticed the metal tab in the center back ( pickup?) had a deep v groove in it so I figured wasnt getting voltage. I took needle nose pliers and tried mashing it flat but pulled it out. Went to google to try and see how it went on and realized it was missing the front one.
Off to ebay and $25 later I have one and said works. It sat for 3 weeks and I went to put it in. Whoops no e-unit on it...grrr. ok ill remove the one off this loco. Took one screw out and e-unit came off. went to unsolder wires and noticed drum in e-unit was flopping around so removed it. no pic yet as im not home.

While I can get another entire train for $40-$50 on ebay.... it isnt her fathers.

So my question is... is it worth fixing or replacing anymore to have her fathers train running? Is the 1666 a worthy train to have? being O27 and so cheap im guessing to put it together and run it in forward only mode?

Ill post pics later and hope someone can tell me if its worth fixing this e-unit.

Thoughts appreciated.

p.s. I knew the father and he was a cool dude. stroke hit him bad and his remaining years were not fun. Miss ya Frank!

 

[Millstonemike]

Me, I figure out all the parts I need for all my trains and place an order with ttender.com.

He has drums, fiber plates and pick-ups, a bazillion parts. I usually use Olsen's Service Manual library to identify part numbers. Then check ttender to see if he has it in stock. If not, an email to Jeff will likely find the part (some parts with multiple numbers are listed under only one number in the lists).

It's not that hard. Give it a shot.

Link to the 1666(E) service manual at Olsen's.

The pick shoe and related parts' numbers given in the 1666 service manual are not listed at ttender. You should email Jeff and inquire. The drum is common for most all prewar E-units. Jeff can confirm the part number (# 259E-1 in the postwar section at tttender).

 

[Riggzie]

Me, I figure out all the parts I need for all my trains and place an order with ttender.com.

He has drums, fiber plates and pick-ups, a bazillion parts. I usually use Olsen's Service Manual library to identify part numbers. Then check ttender to see if he has it. If not, an email to Jeff will likely find the part (some parts with multiple numbers are listed under only one number in the lists.

It's not that hard. Give it a shot.

aight... thx

 

[T-Man]

It is a good engine to learn on. Anything you learn will be worth it.

 

[santafe158]

The way I see old train restoration projects is they aren't manufacturing any more of them. Unless it's been underwater for 40 years or burned badly, it's probably worth restoring if it's mostly in one piece. As long as the bones are there, then definitely go for it. While it might not make the most sense from a spending standpoint as far as parts cost vs locomotive value, you'll have a lot more pride in that locomotive when you're finished with it than if you had just bought a working one. I don't restore my stuff with the intention of selling it. I've got a few that probably weren't worth the money I put into parts to get them running, but I sure enjoy seeing them do their thing now that they're repaired.

As I recall, the 1666 is essentially the same as the prewar 224E of which I own two. They are some of the smoothest running locomotives I own.

 

[Millstonemike]

The way I see old train restoration projects is they aren't manufacturing any more of them. Unless it's been underwater for 40 years or burned badly, it's probably worth restoring if it's mostly in one piece. As long as the bones are there, then definitely go for it. While it might not make the most sense from a spending standpoint as far as parts cost vs locomotive value, you'll have a lot more pride in that locomotive when you're finished with it than if you had just bought a working one. I don't restore my stuff with the intention of selling it. I've got a few that probably weren't worth the money I put into parts to get them running, but I sure enjoy seeing them do their thing now that they're repaired.

As I recall, the 1666 is essentially the same as the prewar 224E of which I own two. They are some of the smoothest running locomotives I own.

+1. And buying another used loco may likely have it's own problems.

 

[ErnestHouse]

I too crossed this bridge of economics vs collectibility vs "heck, let's have fun driving trains" when I rekindled my love of the trains of my childhood.

With some advice here at MTF, I decided there's these made in USA metal toys that still work. When my grandkids are young adults, the toys will be 100 years old. I want as many of them running, updated as needed and able to delight more generations of family.

My refurbished 1666 is the most loved loco by my kids and grandkids. From it's cattle pusher to silver accessories like handrails with standoffs, whistle and swinging bell, kids are mesmerized as its linkage goes round and round down the track. It's a good puller for me. And there's lots of details in the castings like dual fireboxes which were extremely rare in real life.

Your 1666 is missing some bits like the front truck that are easily fixed. The fact that it's a family piece IMHO makes it a no brainer. My grandson will play for hours with my Dad's windup loco/tender simply because it belonged to his great grandfather "Gramps" when he was the same age in 1930. YMMV

 

[Riggzie]

I too crossed this bridge of economics vs collectibility vs "heck, let's have fun driving trains" when I rekindled my love of the trains of my childhood.

With some advice here at MTF, I decided there's these made in USA metal toys that still work. When my grandkids are young adults, the toys will be 100 years old. I want as many of them running, updated as needed and able to delight more generations of family.

My refurbished 1666 is the most loved loco by my kids and grandkids. From it's cattle pusher to silver accessories like handrails with standoffs, whistle and swinging bell, kids are mesmerized as its linkage goes round and round down the track. It's a good puller for me. And there's lots of details in the castings like dual fireboxes which were extremely rare in real life.

Your 1666 is missing some bits like the front truck that are easily fixed. The fact that it's a family piece IMHO makes it a no brainer. My grandson will play for hours with my Dad's windup loco/tender simply because it belonged to his great grandfather "Gramps" when he was the same age in 1930. YMMV

i hear ya...
these were a friends fathers so not "family" but friend family...

im missing front truck??? i didnt post a pic of it... :laugh:

 

[Riggzie]

you might of seen a pic i posted while it was on my bench..
here is an old pic i took.

 

[ErnestHouse]

im missing front truck??? i didnt post a pic of it... :laugh:

You posted a pic here.
https://www.modeltrainforum.com/showpost.php?p=2494936&postcount=1

 

[Riggzie]

You posted a pic here.
https://www.modeltrainforum.com/showpost.php?p=2494936&postcount=1

yeah its apart there LOL
but i got the front truck!!!!

guess ill get an order up after tomorrow as im picking up more and that other one is missing a front truck.. will order that too. want to order a few things at once...:smilie_daumenpos:

 

[Riggzie]

wow took some time... but i went through my locomotives, and figured out what needs what.. including my newly acquired 2065

Lionel 2065
2046-22 - front truck assembly - $7.50
2046-28 - Truck Pivot Screw - $.75
75-300 - lamp still need

Lionel 1666
259E-1 - e untit drum red - $4

Lionel 624
363-300 - 14 volt bulb bayo base clear $.50

Lionel 2020
752-9 - 18 volt bulb use 1447-300
671-238 - Side Rod Screw - $.75
671-239 - Spacer - $1.50

022 switcher switches - hope these are the bulbs...
432-301 - red bulb - / $.75
432-302 - green bulb - / $.75


adds up... email sent $27.50 and waiting to hear how much shipping will be then will place. Will get all this in and together and hopefully the 1666 running!!!!!

 

[Riggzie]

side question... if an e unit is there but the drum is missing.. should the train still drive if e unit is set to not connecter? meaning lever moved to not complete circuit?

 

[TrainLarry]

The locomotive will not run if there is no drum in the 'E' unit - it needs the drum to complete the electrical circuit from the rollers to the motor.

The center-left diagram here "Wiring diagram of Locomotives with No Reversing Mechanism"
http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/cd/locos/loc200p2.pdf
shows how you can disconnect and bypass the 'E' unit and get the motor to run in one direction. Reverse the brush connections to get the motor to run in the opposite direction.

The 022 bulbs you list are the correct replacements.


Larry

 

[Millstonemike]

side question... if an e unit is there but the drum is missing.. should the train still drive if e unit is set to not connecter? meaning lever moved to not complete circuit?

As Train Larry said, it will not run without the drum.

The lever that "locks out" the E-unit doesn't remove it from the motor's circuit. The lever merely disconnects the E-unit's solenoid from the track power. Thus, the E-unit's solenoid will never advance the drum to its next position when cycling track power. The drum will remain in it's previous position and the motor circuit will remain in it's previous state - forward, neutral or reverse.

The most common use for the lever is locking the E-unit into the forward state. While running in forward power down the throttle. Then switch the lever and it will remain in forward because the E-unit can't advance on power up. This is useful for loco's that temporarily lose power over switches or crossings - avoiding an E-unit cycle into neutral - to keep the loco running in forward.

 

[Riggzie]

Thx All,
I will get my order in and get a drum in there then and test at that point. This is the last loco in my fleet go get running. I ran my 2020 last night and man, its not sounding good, but it does run. I almost sounds like the worm gear or the gear on the motor are stripped but they are not. Took it apart 8 times last night trying various things.. will let it sit for a bit till i get this 1666 done and into my "fixed" section...

 

[Riggzie]

this is so frustrating...
I just got the parts in, tried getting the drum in and was successful... however, it doesnt work. so frustrated....

originally, i didnt pay attention and bought a motor/wheel assembly from a guy on ebay for $35 plus shipping and it did not come with an e-unit.

figured id move mine over but after looking at it the drum fell out... that is why i figured lets get a new drum. well i took the power tabs off the bottom and moved them over but still this e unit is ticking me off...

all of this train stuff is new to me and e-units are wow.. a new level of frustration!!!!!
I will not let it beat me..

now I know 1666 can be had cheap. I dont want a 1666 to "HAVE" but more of a ...
It is Franks 1666 so get it running...

whelp i just paid $48 shipped for a 1666 from ebay with a functioning e-unit!!!!!
so when it comes in, I can look at it, see what i did wrong with this one... and just get it running as well..

but i will have the 1666 on the tracks, hopefully soon!!!!

 

[TrainLarry]

Here is a two part series in rebuilding 'E' units. Follow it carefully, and it should alleviate your frustration.

Larry

 

[Riggzie]

Here is a two part series in rebuilding 'E' units. Follow it carefully, and it should alleviate your frustration.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C3cHF_a6CNM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mA6AdfzXo3g


Larry

gotcha.. thx..

I saw those, and started to watch. guess ill have to follow it like you said..
thx again
:thumbsup:

 

[Cousin Eddie]

Riggzie sorry I’m getting to this post late but I have a working 1666 if you need pics and or vids of anything on it that will help you let me know I can pop it open and send you some.