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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello!

My grandfather recently passed on his train set to me, and I'd like to get it back into proper shape. It's his set from when he was a child, and I remember playing with it in his basement on occasion. I do not currently have a railroad setup, but am very interested in getting back into this after years away from the hobby.

Anyway, enough story time. I have the lionel 1668 locomotive and tender, and a few cars. As an example, this is what the set looks like:
(Not my actual set, just a reference photo from an ebay auction)



Now for the problems:

1. The Locomotive is missing the screw that attaches the "shell" to the engine/gear block.

Is this the correct part: http://www.mytrainpartsusa.com/lionel_numeric_prewar2.html "1688-MS 6-32x2" phillister motor mount screw"

Do I have to buy that part or can I use any 6-32X2" machine screw?

2. The tender is non-whistling and missing the rear truck. According to the diagram here: http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/cd/b123\000532.pdf The truck should be part #620-16, or even #1690-8. I checked ebay and most of the suppliers from the stickied post on Lionel parts, but can't seem to find exactly what I'm looking for.

Can someone point me in the right direction and/or tell me what I'm doing wrong that I can't seem to find that part? Worst case, I'll cannabalize one of the cars for a truck...but I was hoping to find a replacement truck.

3. No transformer. Can someone reccomend a transformer for purchase? I have a pile of track, some connectors, and a couple switches. I'm only going to be running this train - I don't think I need anything fancy but I don't want to buy too little power, or buy something that's loaded with features and accessories that I'm not going to use.

Apologies if I misused some of the terms or am being unclear - I had an HO setup as a child, but I haven't touched a model train in a long time , so I'm a bit rusty.

Thanks,
stimrob

P.S. I can provide pictures of the actual set if it's relevant to any of the parts I need.
 

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Hello!

My grandfather recently passed on his train set to me, and I'd like to get it back into proper shape. It's his set from when he was a child, and I remember playing with it in his basement on occasion. I do not currently have a railroad setup, but am very interested in getting back into this after years away from the hobby.

Anyway, enough story time. I have the lionel 1668 locomotive and tender, and a few cars. As an example, this is what the set looks like:



Now for the problems:

1. The Locomotive is missing the screw that attaches the "shell" to the engine/gear block.

Is this the correct part: http://www.mytrainpartsusa.com/lionel_numeric_prewar2.html "1688-MS 6-32x2" phillister motor mount screw"

Do I have to buy that part or can I use any 6-32X2" machine screw?

2. The tender is non-whistling and missing the rear truck. According to the diagram here: http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/cd/b123\000532.pdf The truck should be part #620-16, or even #1690-8. I checked ebay and most of the suppliers from the stickied post on Lionel parts, but can't seem to find exactly what I'm looking for.

Can someone point me in the right direction and/or tell me what I'm doing wrong that I can't seem to find that part? Worst case, I'll cannabalize one of the cars for a truck...but I was hoping to find a replacement truck.

3. No transformer. Can someone reccomend a transformer for purchase? I have a pile of track, some connectors, and a couple switches. I'm only going to be running this train - I don't think I need anything fancy but I don't want to buy too little power, or buy something that's loaded with features and accessories that I'm not going to use.

Apologies if I misused some of the terms or am being unclear - I had an HO setup as a child, but I haven't touched a model train in a long time , so I'm a bit rusty.

Thanks,
stimrob

P.S. I can provide pictures of the actual set if it's relevant to any of the parts I need.
The screw I say if it fits you can use it.
I am confused by the missing truck? Your tender shows 2 trucks on it, are you missing a wheel on the other side? Don't cannibalize one you should be able to buy one, it should not cost that much. Explain the missing truck further by your picture it looks all there?

Gunrunner John might have a transformer for you, maybe? John?
A #1033 90 watt should be fine. Plenty of power for what you want.
If he has none you should be able to Pu one cheap on e bay.

I forgot to say...Welcome to the site. :D
 

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I see now your missing the locomotive rear truck/wheels? Right?:confused:

That would be the 1698e-24M? In the first picture on the Olsen site? On the locomotive?
 

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A lot here use http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?p=224763&posted=1#post224763

for parts, good man, fair on prices.

Give Jeff a call and he will set you up, look for anything else you might need first so you can get it all for the same shipping price.

He only takes checks or (money orders?) I think he takes money orders. But you don't have to worry about getting them, all nicely packaged in little vacuum baggies with the part name and number on them.
Most of the time you will get the parts before he gets the check, he will ship them out right away.
Give him a call, he will tell you what you need.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry for the confusion folks, the picture I posted is a reference picture from e-bay, just so y'all could see what kind set I had. I sholuld have waited to post a picture of my stuff, but I found this forum and was really excited to post and start working on this.. my fault :smilie_daumenneg:

My locomotive has both trucks, but my tender is missing the rear truck.

I'll put up a picture when I get home of my actual tender and locomotive.
 

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Ha Ha Ha I typed all of that for nothing? :D

Post some pictures of what you got, are they all rust buckets?
Don't be ashamed to post them some of us love "junk".

They can be transformed into beeeuutifull butterfly's you know? :D

Check out our Tin Man's work.... AKA.....tjcruiser. He takes rusted dented tin trains and makes them look like new.
You need something fabricated check out our Epoxy man's threads, AKA........T man.
There is nothing T man can't fix with epoxy!

Gunrunner will set you up electronically so good you won't know what he is talking about. :p
He is the man to see for electrifying questions.

There are more & if you don't know don't be afraid to ask.
There are "almost' no stupid questions.

Some of us might get a laugh sometimes, but we will set you straight. :p
 

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Discussion Starter #9
missing tender wheel photos

Thanks for the welcome guys! I'm liking it here already.

See attachments for pictures of my locomotive and tender with missing truck. Thoughts?

eta: There's nothing in the tender that leads me to believe this is a "whistle" type tender, so I don't need the rear truck to have an electric pickup, just a replacement truck. I'm moving in 3 weeks so most of the stuff is now boxed. I'll take lots of pics when I get it cleaned up and set up at the new place.

IMG_20130730_184756.jpg

IMG_20130730_184804.jpg

IMG_20130730_184812.jpg
 

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They look in good shape.

I would say that the 1690-8 would be alright to use as the other side is the powered pickup version.
But wait till someone else confirms my suspicions. The only thing I could see is that the latch coupler might hook into the truck?

I don't have many prewar trains so I can't look at where the coupler or drawbar hook up.

Jeff's site doesn't list them but that doesn't mean he doesn't have them.

If you buy the parts you could make it a whistle tender, it looks like it has all the holes to set one up and you do need a truck anyway.
But I think it would be easier & cheaper to just buy a whistle tender if you want one.

The trucks should be available somewhere.
 

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The tender is a 1689T. The original truck was riveted on to the base. Its no problem, just use a screw and nut to hold the new truck on. It is just a standard O gauge prewar truck with journals. The 1689W had the pickup for the Whistle but you don't need that one. You are going to have to open up the tender to do this though. The hole that is closer to the edge of the base is for the coupler. You need a prewar O27 latch coupler (CP7). The coupler slides through the slot opening at the edge of the tender. The tab on the coupler shank gets bent 90 degrees down through the hole in the base of the tender and then twisted to hold it in place. All the CP7s I see on ebay have the tab bent up. You should look for one that has not been bent. This sounds more difficult than it actually is. For both jobs the shell has to come off.

Scott
 

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Stimrob,

Just catching up, seeing this thread. Nice to see you rehabbing your grandfather's prewar. The loco is in good condition for its age. The guys above have offered good / clear info ... Jeff Kane at the Train Tender is a great source for parts. I've restored a couple of 1668 and 1689T's ... if you have more specific questions, I'll check back in.

I might (?) have a spare truck for you ...

Cheers,

TJ
 

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Your loco and tender look great! The 1668 is my favorite prewar locomotive. I have one but it's been repainted.

Now you need to invest in some track and a transformer to get it running!
 

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When you remove the tender shell, bend the tabs straight. When you replace it, don't bend the tabs over as they will often break off. Twist only two of the tabs that are diagonally opposed. Twist them only slightly and this will hold the shell on. Then, in the future, should you need to remove the shell, the tabs will not break off.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
When you remove the tender shell, bend the tabs straight. When you replace it, don't bend the tabs over as they will often break off. Twist only two of the tabs that are diagonally opposed. Twist them only slightly and this will hold the shell on. Then, in the future, should you need to remove the shell, the tabs will not break off.
Thanks for the tip - this is the kind of stuff I wouldn't have thought of until after I broke the tabs off...

Your loco and tender look great! The 1668 is my favorite prewar locomotive. I have one but it's been repainted.

Now you need to invest in some track and a transformer to get it running!
I have a bunch of track and switches, it's not in great shape. When I get to the new house, I'm going to finally have space to set everything up and start rebuilding some of the stuff. Still need to get a transformer, but they seem pretty easy to find.


The tender is a 1689T. The original truck was riveted on to the base. Its no problem, just use a screw and nut to hold the new truck on. It is just a standard O gauge prewar truck with journals. The 1689W had the pickup for the Whistle but you don't need that one. You are going to have to open up the tender to do this though. The hole that is closer to the edge of the base is for the coupler. You need a prewar O27 latch coupler (CP7). The coupler slides through the slot opening at the edge of the tender. The tab on the coupler shank gets bent 90 degrees down through the hole in the base of the tender and then twisted to hold it in place. All the CP7s I see on ebay have the tab bent up. You should look for one that has not been bent. This sounds more difficult than it actually is. For both jobs the shell has to come off.

Scott

Thanks for the info on using a screw in place of the rivet, and for giving me the model number of the latch couplers. I had seen latch couplers CP-7 CP-8 and CP-9 but couldn't really tell the difference.


Thank you everyone for responding. I can't wait to move and finally get this set up and start working on restoring everything. I anticipate you will hear from me in a few weeks with many more questions!
 

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When you use a screw to replace the rivet to attach the truck, use an elastic stop nut with a nylon insert so the nut doesn't come off by itself.
 

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BTW, before you run this train, lube everything, especially the engine. Recommended is motor oil 5/10W-20/30. Don't use Lionel Lube, 3 in 1 oil, WD-40, grease, light machine oil, etc., as these products will get gummy or hard in a short time. Motor oil never dries out or gets gummy. I have been using it for 50+ years.
 
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