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Discussion Starter #1
First post on what looks like a great forum site! So, I recently made purchase of a lot on ebay, all HO stuff except for a Lionel 1664. I straitened out the bent axle on the rear bogie but It appears to be missing the third rail feed pickups. Is there a special place I can get these? there's nothing on eBay and google isn't much help. I know literally nothing about Lionel and any information is helpful. I'm also in college so money is, traditionally, kind of tight, so I cant afford custom stuff unless i can manufacturer it myself.

It didn't come with it's tender but I've found a few options on eBay for cheap, apparently most if not all tenders are interchangeable? which is good because I like the knuckle couplers better than the strange pre war stuff.

One other question I have is; is it supposed to be able to roll? like the drive wheels move when pushed? I've never experienced a locomotive do this, but my HO stuff is a lot smaller (and what i can tell, a completely different type of motor system) then this big O stuff.
 

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OK , the missing price is a pick up shoe, Jeff at the train tender sells them, shouldn't cost much. As long as there is the connection price under the bottom plate they should just clip in. Yes, some engine roll smoother then others. Lots of times if the wheels don't movies because of the old grease Hardeningl up. Do you have a transformer? Clean up the wheels with a scotch brute pad. Also if you want to get onto more in-depth cleaning , just ask. Oil with plain motor oil. Just a little. Clean wheels and track with alcohol, purer the better. And most tenders are interchangeable, but the prewar couplers don't mate with the post war stuff unless you have a converter. ( ive never seen one) you could also change the truck on the tender to pull whatever you like. Good luck. It looks in good shape for its age:)
 

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That looks about right, there is a wire attached too, right? Hard to tell. I don't know if the part numbers for the post and pre war stuff is different. But Jeff at the train tender will know, call him. Its a common part. It sort of looks like a flat c shape price of copper. About half the with of a popsicle stick.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)

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Ironclad, once you get a transformer (AC), you can test the motor without the pick up shoes, very easily. The pick up shoes are part 1661-33, and as recommended, by sjm9911, from a reputable dealer. They run from $1-1.50 each from the better dealers.

If you have the transformer, just take the collector plate off the motor, to get access to the single wire going to the E unit. Use a set of test leads from the transformer, and connect one lead to the wire/copper plate, and connect the other lead to the metal frame or body which is the ground return path. Hold the loco upright In your hand, and turn the voltage up on the transformer. This will show if it runs or not. If it does run, that is success, but it won't indicate if the E unit is working properly. If it runs, when you first test it, cycle the transformer off and on, if a small transformer, or use the reverse control if it is a better transformer. That will show any problems with the reverse unit. It's a really simple test, but just buy the collector shoes, as they are cheap enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #12





So i got the new feed rail contacts, worked perfectly. Picked up a few pieces off eBay for cheap, a tender and a caboose, both postwar so they have the knuckle couplers. Thanks for all the help, friends.
 

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Discussion Starter #13




Incidentally, I had no idea the new Lionel track (that i just picked up today at the Hobbytown) were so much different than the older track. I found the rusty piece in a section of wall in my parent's house, and the shiny one is the stuff I bought off the rack at Hobbytown.
 

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The two tracks are both used for three rail locos, but the difference is the Left rail is "0" gauge rail, the Right rail is "027" track. They can't usually be used together without special track pins. The "0" rail used a larger diameter track pin, and that is your restriction with using both. Some locos (Lionel" have a deeper wheel flange that will only work on the taller "0" track, but may derail, if run on "027". When connecting the track, it is very, very important that you have tight connections. The track pins need to be tight. The quickest way to tell the two tracks apart are the 3 railroad ties. The "027" are perfectly flat on the bottom, and the "0" ties are curled up across the tie. "0" tracks are 11/16" tall, 027 is 7/16" tall.
 

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Docs got it covered! If using both tracks together use the larger pin and bend the 027 track to fit. The difference underneath can be made up underneath with shims. Nice eBay finds!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Teledoc, thanks for the info, i thought all the track for O and O27 were uniform. I'm going to be using the brand new O27, because it's, well, new, and because i can get more for cheap at my hobby store.
 

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Ironclad, A lot of people get confused with the two versions, because if you just look at the top of the track, the rails are spaced the same. The height of the rail 11/16" & 7/16" is what tells the difference. Some older (Prewar, early Postwar) have wheel flanges that are deeper than others, and need the extra rail height for smoother running. When you get into switches/turnouts, then you get into other problems with wheel flanges, linkage, etc. that can get hung up on certain switches. There is a wealth of info here, that covers different styles of track, switches, and how to modify them. All you have to do is use the search function.
 
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