[Robert_Ogle]

I purchased my first locomotive from ebay as a new item, only tested to ensure it ran. To keep things simple because I am new to the hobby I kept my initial freight cars strictly micro train due to the reviews I read about how well made their couplers/cars are.

As you can see from the photos, my kato loco has a low slung coupler when compared to and coupled with the MT cars. I was able to remove the shell and I am not seeing much in the way of adjustment. I have an email into Micro trains to see what coupler part # would solve this problem but in the interim was hoping I could learn a bit and maybe solve this problem until then.




Removed some items due to ebay dispute.

 

[gimme30]

That whine is definitely NOT normal. I've only ever heard that kind of racket out of the ex-wife or the rear end on my truck before it exploded. Got me what could be causing it!

As for the coupler height...maybe it's just the angle of the shot but it looks like the MT coupler is too high-or the trip pin is pressed in too far.

You need one of these: https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/micro-trains-n-98800031-1055-coupler-height-gauge/

 

[Robert_Ogle]

That whine is definitely NOT normal. I've only ever heard that kind of racket out of the ex-wife or the rear end on my truck before it exploded. Got me what could be causing it!

As for the coupler height...maybe it's just the angle of the shot but it looks like the MT coupler is too high-or the trip pin is pressed in too far.

You need one of these: https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/micro-trains-n-98800031-1055-coupler-height-gauge/

yeah that's what I was afraid of sound wise.

 

[bewhole]

yeah that's what I was afraid of sound wise.

Have you tried it without the shell on it?? I have had some that made a whining sound so I took the shell off and it would stop. made some adjustments on the shell and it never came back.

 

[Robert_Ogle]

Have you tried it without the shell on it?? I have had some that made a whining sound so I took the shell off and it would stop. made some adjustments on the shell and it never came back.

Yeah same sound regardless. It sounds like its coming from the worm gears. However the sound is proportional to speed.

I've watched kato videos of them running on a layout, and all you hear at scale speed is the some faint wheels on the track. I understand some may be a bit louder than others, but it sounds like this motor is screaming even at low speeds.

I think I am just going to open a ebay dispute, from everything i've read about kato engines, they're pretty on point. I knew better to buy an electrical component from ebay even if it said new, only ran to test. I have terrible luck with ebay lol

 

[DonR]

For any coupler misalignment you really should
use the Micro trains N scale alignment tool.

https://yankeedabbler.com/99800031-micro-trains-99800031-coupler-height-gauge-1055-5-tools-yankeedabbler/?gclid=CjwKCAiA3OzvBRBXEiwALNKDP1vAVL9qqEB9gYV453oX8eflgYrq64vvvK-9XEUFxLppYRnzz-CQyxoCVxEQAvD_BwE

I haven't used this one I am HO and used Micro trains
HO cousins Kadee. The tool shows you the frame height,
as well as knuckle height and 'brake hose' height.

Don

 

[Robert_Ogle]

Thanks for all the responses. I just order the mt gauge and I'm in the process of returning the loco due to it howling like a mini turbo on a 4 cyl cummins lol.

 

[traction fan]

Wheres the video?

I purchased my first locomotive from ebay as a new item, only tested to ensure it ran. To keep things simple because I am new to the hobby I kept my initial freight cars strictly micro train due to the reviews I read about how well made their couplers/cars are.

As you can see from the photos, my kato loco has a low slung coupler when compared to and coupled with the MT cars. I was able to remove the shell and I am not seeing much in the way of adjustment. I have an email into Micro trains to see what coupler part # would solve this problem but in the interim was hoping I could learn a bit and maybe solve this problem until then.




Removed some items due to ebay dispute.

Robert; I saw your post (above) in the N-scale forum section, but there was no video to watch, or listen to. I guess that was one of the items you removed due to ebay dispute.

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:

 

[rrjim1]

I have never had a MT/Kadee truck mounted couple that was high. I have had to shim most of my Kato loco to get the correct height. I also have three Kato SD40-2 that all make the high pitch whine, IMO it sound like the motors.

 

[Robert_Ogle]

I have never had a MT/Kadee truck mounted couple that was high. I have had to shim most of my Kato loco to get the correct height. I also have three Kato SD40-2 that all make the high pitch whine, IMO it sound like the motors.

Just for my knowledge, as this loco is getting sent back, in the case of the loco shown above, how could you shim it higher if there's shell in the way? Do some locos require you to trim shells for certain coupler conversions?

 

[rrjim1]

I was referring to MT/Kadee couplers. I own several Kato locos that when I went to install new 1015 MT couplers they were to low, most n-scale loco use the 1015 coupler. I had to use MT 2004, it is underslung so the coupler sits higher than a 1015. I had to use a shim to adjust the coupler box to the correct position. This is one reason why I'm not crazy about Kato locos, there stock couplers are just plain terrible and are never in the correct position. Most locos like Atlas use the 1015 and fit perfect and 99% of the time are already the correct height.

 

[traction fan]

Moving the coupler up

Just for my knowledge, as this loco is getting sent back, in the case of the loco shown above, how could you shim it higher if there's shell in the way? Do some locos require you to trim shells for certain coupler conversions?

Robert;

The low placement of the coupler on your locomotive is peculiar, to say the least. Hopefully, you can get your money back from the e-bay seller, and buy the replacement loco from www.modeltrainstuff.com, www.trainworld.com, or some other good online dealer. I doubt a new locomotive Kato or other, will have that weird low-mounted coupler. I still wonder If that black block of plastic directly over the coupler box, is removable. I suppose you have tried that already though. If it is fixed in place and part of the molded shell, then yes, cutting would be necessary. A razor saw could do the job. However, cutting a shell to mount a coupler is pretty unusual. I have had to cut out part of the pilot/"cow catcher" on some steam locomotives to squeeze a Micro-Trains, Z-scale coupler in place of a molded "dummy" (non-working) coupler, but I don't recall ever having to do such surgery on a diesel, tender, or freight car. I have filled in the gaping holes in the front of early N-scale F-unit diesels in order to replace the truck-mounted front Rapido couplers with better looking, and operating, Micro-Trains, body-mounted ones. Generally though, any locomotive made in the last ten years or so, will come with some type of operating knuckle coupler, mounted at a reasonably normal height, and easily replaceable with a Micro-Trains coupler, with no surgery required. I hope that's what you get with your replacement locomotive.

regards;

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:

 

[rrjim1]

Here are pictures of Kato locos that have or had coupler problems. The SD40 has a shim to lower the coupler. You can see the SD80 had to have a underslung coupler because the mounting pocket is to low. The PA1 still has a Kato coupler that is low.