[tooter]

Since whatever layout I put together will never be too big to reach everything easily... the idea of throwing switches by hand rather than electrically is appealing... and compared to the bulky black contraptions that came with the switches, these look really cool.

Have any of you here had any experience with these Caboose Industries levers? How did they work for you? Or can you recommend any others?


Greg

 

[tjcruiser]

I recently built a 4x8 HO layout with easy reach from 3 sides. I went with manual Atlas switches ... pretty failproof, and no electricity to wire / worry about. That said, they're pretty boring / bland to look at. Those CI levers you found look great! I can't offer any tips, but I'm hoping you "go for it", so we can all see!

TJ

 

[tooter]

I'm gonna get some for sure!
They're only 6 bucks each from Hobbylinc. Since the switches will be "mobile" for a while, I'll attach a small flat piece of sheet metal to the bottom of the switch and use that to mount the lever so that when the switch gets moved the lever goes right along with it. By using silicone (a personal favorite of mine... ) when the permanent installation is done, everything can just be peeled off clean to attach to the board.

The Caboose switch has a few different ends to properly mate it directly to the switch, as well as a variety of red and green flag indicators to choose from. I can already tell that my layout is going to have lots of hands-on things that I get to operate manually.


Greg

 

[mr_x_ite_ment]

Hey Greg...

My layout is 12x26, and I throw all my switches manually. I, too, wanted something dependable, with less wiring. I can reach all my switches, but it takes a little effort to make sure they are all in the right position (keeps me on my toes). I mess up once in a while, but I could mess up with electrical ones too. Heck, even the real railroad has them in wrong positions from time to time. That's when you get a moving train slaming into a set of stationary cars on a side track!

Chad

 

[tooter]

Hey Greg...

My layout is 12x26, and I throw all my switches manually. I, too, wanted something dependable, with less wiring.

Wow, Chad... that's huge! I wish I had that much room. What kind of levers do you use?

I can reach all my switches, but it takes a little effort to make sure they are all in the right position (keeps me on my toes).

I think that's the neat part.

I mess up once in a while, but I could mess up with electrical ones too. Heck, even the real railroad has them in wrong positions from time to time. That's when you get a moving train slaming into a set of stationary cars on a side track!

Chad

Do you have a hospital on your layout?

Greg

 

[mr_x_ite_ment]

Hey Greg! Well, my layout is in my shop, which is not insulated. I have the room for one that size, but I also have to put up with total extremes in temperature! It can be well over 100 deg. in the summer, and 40 below in winter. Track cleaning is a CONSTANT chore. I just use the code 100 Atlas turnouts. I don't have the fancy add-on lever from Caboose, like you showed. I like it...it looks nice!

I should have a hospital on my layout! I would have checked into it MANY times by now! He he!

Chad

 

[tankist]

i hear caboose are pretty much the default choice when one needs ground throws. have a few in a bag, they are ok.

with that, atlas makes switch machines that are installed under the track. solves any concerns of non-prototypical look. i can't reach all of the turnouts and don't want to walk around other end each time.

 

[tooter]

Just mounted up the first control for my manually operated switchyard...

It's just stuck onto a piece of sheet metal with a dab of silicone and everything is stuck onto the underside of the switch. This way I can move the whole assembly around without disturbing the lever alignment. For permenent installation the base can easily be covered up with ballast and dirt.

 

[tjcruiser]

Hey Greg,

That looks AWESOME! A few questions (I'm kinda switch/turnout illiterate, so bear with me here ...)

1. I saw several of these levers at a train show recently. It looked to me like they came in several different styles / sizes. How did you choose which one would work best?

2. Until seeing your photos just now, I (naively) imagined that the lever would somehow attach to the piston-thingy that's normally an integral part of an Atlas (or other?) switch. I assume you were able to remove that, and attach the lever (via your sheet metal) in its place? Is that how it's supposed to work ... i.e., remove (and chuck) the piston-thingy?

Thanks for remembering to share this with us ... I really like these, and might get a pair for my (brace yourself ...) TWO switch HO layout!

TJ

 

[tooter]

Hey Greg,

That looks AWESOME! A few questions (I'm kinda switch/turnout illiterate, so bear with me here ...)

1. I saw several of these levers at a train show recently. It looked to me like they came in several different styles / sizes. How did you choose which one would work best?

I just went here and read up on them...

http://www.cabooseind.com/

They're basically two styles High Throw and Ground Throw. Highs are the old fashioned ones and Grounds are the modern ones. Then there's solid throws and spring loaded throws. I got springs as they're more forgiving on alignment. They're universal... and come with a wide variety of adaptors to fit just about every switch made.

2. Until seeing your photos just now, I (naively) imagined that the lever would somehow attach to the piston-thingy that's normally an integral part of an Atlas (or other?) switch. I assume you were able to remove that, and attach the lever (via your sheet metal) in its place? Is that how it's supposed to work ... i.e., remove (and chuck) the piston-thingy?

Yes.

That's the beauty of them. They replace the manual or remote controller, and make the switch look much more old fashioned. My intention is to have a mechanically oriented layout where I work everything manually.

Thanks for remembering to share this with us ... I really like these, and might get a pair for my (brace yourself ...) TWO switch HO layout!

TJ

I did a thorough search for the very best price and found the Caboose Industries sprung high throws for only $5.49 each at:

https://www.myatomic.com

And if your order is over $25... the shipping is free.

Just checked... dang, they're out of the sprung ones, but have rigid high throws for just $4.29 each. They'll likely get more in stock, as the sprung ones are the most popular.

Getting my log buggies loaded up!

Greg

 

[bradimous1]

wow, that looks awesome... I may be rethinking again... wow, that looks great.

 

[tjcruiser]

Greg,

Thanks much for the excellent intel / info ... much appreciated!

TJ

 

[bradimous1]

Hey TJ... check this link out... it actually gave me some info that I found very important about these...

All 100 series (Rigid) stands require modelers to fabricate a spring connecting link between the stand and the turnout.

All 200 series units (Sprung) have internal springs so they can be connected directly to the turnout throwbar.

http://www.dallasmodelworks.com/products/product_detail_accessories.asp?ItemNumber=CA-97-204

 

[tooter]

Yes.

The spring ones are the best because they can be connected directly. The solid ones need a piece of wire between them for the flex, which puts them farther away.

 

[bradimous1]

Greg,

Thanks much for the excellent intel / info ... much appreciated!

TJ

I echo these sentiments

I am thinking that I am going to go to my local shop and see if they can get them for me. yup, I am completely taken by these.

 

[tooter]

hobbylinc.com has Caboose sprung high throws in stock...

Operating Ground Throw -- High Level Switch Stand .190'' Travel Sprung w/Lantern & Targets - HO-Scale
Other items from Caboose
Catalog Location: Model Trains - Track / Accessories - Nickel Silver - HO Scale
Your Price: $6.04
Savings: 16% off
List Price: $7.20
Product Number: CAB204
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