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Yard Master & Research
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is A How TO DO for a newly purchased engine. As in all my projects it has problems.
I have startes one previously with a link here but have not finished.



First I had to test the motor. I cleaned the armature and checked the e unit drum. The drum actually got loose when I pulled it from between the motor frames. That just clamped back into place.

The brushes had no tension. The springs were compressed. SO a little stretch job added more tension for a better contact. Then there is the top screw holding the brush plate and the metal connector from the brush can. This connector rotates so if it touches the brush to ground/common the motor will not run. With all three fixed the motor tested fine.





Then I did my Mod Podge job on the paper covering the e unit coil.



I know the shell looks nice. The black has a great gloss but it is covering a mess underneath. So it will be repainted
 

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Yard Master & Research
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10,606 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
A better view of the paint job.



The original paint was left under the tender support bar.
The second picture shows the cover up on the pips? Relief valve or whistles?



The underside was clean and I found the light bracket was broken off.

 

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T-Man,

Great find. Glad to see the motor got revved up rather easily. One needs to be careful that the "solder tab" on the upper brush can doesn't touch any part of the shell, once that's installed, either.

I believe you'll find that those three "pips" were originally nickel under the black repaint.

Can you post a better photo(s) of how the motor mounts to the shell in the front/back at some point? I've never looked inside a 1689 that closely before.

Thanks, and enjoy!

TJ
 

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Yard Master & Research
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10,606 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I got the picture tonight but posting may be delayed. I used the first shell to demo the attachment. The back wing is slightly too large for the shell.


I got a look at the first undercoat color. Care to guess. I will post that tomorrow.:)


TJ, You will be buying one by the end of the month. A Lionel Jr motor! yeah, you won't resist.

At least I have a whole one for reference. I had to make the wing for the first one.
 

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Yard Master & Research
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10,606 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
How the motor mounts,

Front mount with a wheel set and four slots. Two for the motor and two for the rods.






The back is held on by a wing that is bolted from the outside of the shell by decorated bolts. I think the imitate brake cylinders. I don't have those,



...


Of course being a T-man special. The rods do not match.:confused:

...
 

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What do you guys recommend for stripping paint on plastic (a Lionel tank car to be specific)? I've had it soaking in a Tide bath for a few weeks and it seems to be slowly working, but anything quicker? The oven cleaner method is only for metal correct?
 

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Yard Master & Research
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10,606 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Postwar collector does use Oven cleaner on his shells. Mostly the 2300 diesels. Castrol super clean is suppose to be effective too though I have not tried it.

AFter a day in the bag.


The mystery color is for the Daylight LImited Red & Orange.

 

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What do you guys recommend for stripping paint on plastic (a Lionel tank car to be specific)? I've had it soaking in a Tide bath for a few weeks and it seems to be slowly working, but anything quicker? The oven cleaner method is only for metal correct?
The last time I stripped a shell (plastic DT&I SW2 I think), I soaked it in brake fluid for a few hours. It was amazing!
 

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T-Man,

Thanks for the under-the-hood pics. (I had fogotten that you redid another 1689, albeit with a retrofit motor).

Here, I'm intrigued to see how the "real" motor fits ... two tabs forward (like on my 1681's), but on the 1689 you have that cross-plate across the back/top of the motor. No such piece on my 1681's. However, one of my 1688's with the Lionel Jr style motor does have the rear cross-plate mount.

Is the front cross bracket that's in the shell (where the tabs from the front of the motor mount) something that's screwed into the shell casting, or rivetted into the shell casting ???


Looks like a 10-spoke wheel jumped in at some point with the other 8-spoke wheels, huh? Hence the drive rod differences.

Thanks, T ... enjoy!

TJ
 

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Yard Master & Research
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10,606 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
You are right about the wheel switch. 8 and 10 spokes.
I noticed the rods did swing close to the brush cans on one side.
Two different wheels. This is my kind of engine.:D




Four screws hold the motor in two in the front on the wheel bracket and two in the back on the wing.

 

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Yard Master & Research
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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
After one day in the bag the paint turned brittle and I used a wide xacto blade to scrape it off.
This didn't take very long to do.

SO more oven cleaner and back in the bag.



So no primer was seen. The orange and red were brushed on.

 

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What do you guys recommend for stripping paint on plastic (a Lionel tank car to be specific)? I've had it soaking in a Tide bath for a few weeks and it seems to be slowly working, but anything quicker? The oven cleaner method is only for metal correct?
Easy Off oven cleaner works the best. It takes all the dirt and paint off without melting the shell. Metal items I use paint stripper.

Example: http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=2777&page=2

page down you will see what it does.

- PW
 

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T-Man,

That's the basic so-called "Lionel Jr" motor. There were design mods / variants over the years...

The brushplate holder is interesting ... early motos had the fasten screws closest to the brush cans, and little alignment nubs (to engage into the motor sideplate) further away. Then, for some reason, Lionel flip-flopped this arrangement ... later motors had the alignment nubs close to the cans, and the fasten screws further away. Go figure!

Some motors have sideplates with round bores in the front, back, or both. These were sometimes used to mount the motor to a shell with a long sideways screw (like on some 1688's).

And, you may recall that some motors had the later-generation field coil, which were mounted in an open-top-wide-notch in the motor sideplates.

Some motors have the rear mount "wing bars" like you show.

And yes ... different nameplates: Lionel Jr. vs. Lionel O27.

Question -- is the e-unit reverse lever on the 1689 on the front of the e-unit, or on the rear?

If I recall, the 258 uses this same basic Jr motor, but on that one, the e-unit has its lever on the rear of the e-unit.

Cheers,

TJ
 

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Yard Master & Research
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10,606 Posts
Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Cleaning and more cleaning.

AFter my scotchbrite rubdown with some rubbing compound. I went after nooks. I used xacto knives ,dental pics and varies wire brushes on a dremel. For a change I went back to the dril press for a second round with that wire brush. I had paint on the inside and then used stripper there. After that I cleaned up the shell with sone paint thinner and finaly soap and water.

I am in the final curve and cleaning up the last of it. Here are the results. Almost ready to paint.







 
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