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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
More details about the PFA problem:
While running and testing both of these brand new Heavy Pacific engines after solving the lighting issues I had on both a new issue was found when running the PFA while quilling whistle was enabled. I found the problem while using the DCS app on an iPad because when you enable quilling whistle and steaming whistle then you can toggle the whistle cord pull slider between purple for quilling+steaming whistle or white for normal non-quilling. So I had it in quilling all night to show off whistle steam. However, when I activated the PFA, initially it plays fine all the way up until the very las departure sequence just before the engine takes off and plays a loud garbled sound and then as the engine begins moving sound is normal. I've tried his several times and the sequence happens every time on both engines.

Now at home after club, I tried using the DCS remote rather than the app and first try invoked the PFA and it played perfectly all the way through. However, I failed to turn on the quilling whistle and whistle steam function for that test. So then I enabled both quilling whistle (SPW) and seaming whistle (FSW) and then tried the PFA sequence and again got the garbled sound at the very end of the sequence just before the engine moves.

Both engines, both the Army and the Rock island versions did this but have different PFA sequences so this appears to be somehow a common mistake in the sound files.

Worse, I cannot reflash the sound files because MTH did not post sound files under the engine support pages.

Summary:
You can play the PFA if you disable (SPW) quilling whistle or in the app, the whistle cord is white.
If quilling whistle is enabled when you start the PFA a loud garbled sound will play at the end of the PFA sequence.

Being steaming whistle was kind of the big deal about this run of this engine, this is not good.
 

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Does it still make the noise with the quilling whistle off but the smoking whistle on? The smoking whistle works without the quilling whistle enabled. See the video I posted earlier in the thread of the CB&Q Pacific. Whistle steam is working with the soft keys and the standard whistle button.


I've got a restoration Big Boy and the PFA sequence does the weird sound at the end with the quilling whistle enabled. I just leave the steaming whistle on (as it works without the quilling whistle enabled) when I run the PFA sequence. It's a work around that solves the issue for now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Correct, just tried using only FSW (steaming whistle) and the PFA plays normally so it appears to be in the quilling whistle section of memory.
 

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It's no wonder they discontinued them. They are garbage! I can't count how many I've seen fail mechanically the same way the OP's did.
Interesting. I have used maybe hundreds. Some on trains, many at work and never saw a failure like that. Maybe thats why they quit making them. In any event I think I have enough to carry me through.

Pete
 

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Well for now just make sure the quilling whistle soft key is off before using the PFA sequence and you're good. It'll work that way for now, plus you'll still get whistle smoke.
 

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Interesting. I have used maybe hundreds. Some on trains, many at work and never saw a failure like that. Maybe thats why they quit making them. In any event I think I have enough to carry me through.

Pete
I've seen a couple busted ones, but like Pete, I've used a ton of them. They are the most compact LED like that, and they are sorely missed.
When they are new, they’re fine. It’s after years of use the leads seem to weaken. They have a ceramic base, I’m not sure why exactly. But I have a theory its for heat dissipation and after a while the heat that builds up there weakens the metal.

Who knows. What I do know is I’ve had them fail in the same way on multiple diesels over the years. Some just quit outright. Others, when I remove the shell to put in a BCR, the leads snap off with the slightest tug.
 
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