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Hello, Have a MTH Mallet that runs and then won't. It will run at 13 Volts, But at times won't run. Will run in reverse.. I know its the board, Anyway to by pass??

Thank You!!

Mark
 

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If you can, post the item number from the box. It helps with troubleshooting if we know the exact version of locomotive you have.

Do you run in conventional mode only or DCS too?

Tom
 

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MTH

MTH # 30-1156-1 conventional. Also will stop running if you use the Whistle button, Move the throttle it will start to run again.
Thanks Mark
 

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Also, being a Proto1 system, make sure you have a good battery or BCR in the tender. A weak one may give you some trouble with operations.

Listen to GRJ too as he is an authority on locomotives!

Tom
 

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Possibly locked in one direction? Are running only 13volts? You should be at least at 18 volts for proper operation.

Here is a trouble shooting chart that may help until someone with more knowledge chimes in.

https://mthtrains.com/sites/default/files/ps1 troubleshooting chart.pdf

This site shows the reset procedure a bit more clearly...

http://service.trainz.com/performing-protosounds-reset/index.html

Also, unplug the tether and plug it back in, securely...

Tom
You put 18 volts to that PS-1 Mallet and it will be airborne. I run mine with a heavy load at 7 volts.

Bill
 

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Even when doing the reset? The chart I was looking at says not to exceed 10 for the first 3 seconds when starting up for a reset.

I don’t have any PS1, so I am at a bit of a disadvantage...


Tom
 

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10 volts at start-up, the PS-1 will be in neutral, after 30 seconds reduce voltage to 6 or 7 volts and click out of neutral for forward.

I have been told that starting at 18 volts in neutral could do some damage to the boards and you do not want to be at 18 volts when clicking out of neutral.

Bill
 

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Okay. Curious to see if any progress was made.

Tom
 

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I have been told that starting at 18 volts in neutral could do some damage to the boards and you do not want to be at 18 volts when clicking out of neutral.
It won't hurt anything, it just won't get out of neutral. In order to get out of the programming mode, you have to start up at less than 10 volts. If you start out with more voltage, you'll here a "clink" that says you're at program function #1. Repeatedly lowing and raising the voltage will step you through the various programming options, pressing the whistle button will trigger that function.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for everything!! Tried all stays the same.. Funny last year did the same thing, Put it on the track last week it ran, But no chime when first powered up. And no sounds, Next day all worked, Well might have to go with new board down the road. Here is a quick one I have a #52 Fire Car, I have a issue with the field, On ebay 4 sale is a gang car field Assy 50-42 would that be used as a replacement? Can't find a field assy 52-48, Thanks
 

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Don't be too certain it is the board. If a motor is loose - the screws holding it down are just slightly loose and it can flex in place just a bit, it can cause this very thing: it will run sometimes in both directions but others only in one. I'm not sure but I think the MTH Mallet has two motors, one for each driver set. Even one of two jamming would keep it from moving like this . . .

If you have a power supply with meters or a read-out that gives you the current and the voltage, such as the ZW-L or MTH 4000, a useful diagnostic is to look at and compare the current draw of the loco when you are at 13 volts and the loco will run, and then will not run. If the current drops a lot when it won't run as compared to when it will, it means the board is shutting off power to the motors and it is (or may be) the problem. If the current stays the same as when it is running when it won't run and the loco reuses to move (it may even increase as compared to when it is running) it indicates that the motors are getting power so the board is presumably working - at least feeding power to the motors, and one of them is probably jammed so they won't turn.
 
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