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Discussion Starter #1
I just won't learn.
I bought a MTH Veranda Turbine off ebay several months back. First thing that quit was the smoke unit. I could hear the fan running, just no heat to generate smoke.
Not a real big deal.
Recently, I noticed it started to stammer when it was running. Fast or slow, it would kinda slow for a second then resume at a regular interval. A closer inspection found the powered truck of the rear set was binding. I dismantled the model and found the cap on the powered truck was loose and apparently the worm gear was disengaging the gear in the truck tower.
I fixed that but in the process had to take quite a few items apart. In that process, some of the wires broke loose so I had to resolder them to the boards. Pretty sure I got them in the right place because there was only one solder point without a wire on it each time. Also, I took pictures of the parts before dismantling it.
Finally got the model put back together but now, the model surges from full speed to stop then full speed again when the Digitrax throttle is barely open. Other locos run fine on the throttle.

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Discussion Starter #2
I've been tryin to find an MTH repair shop that can fix this model. No luck at all. Going through the list of them on the MTH web sight. They only do work on the O scale models. Several shops have told me they quit working the HO models because of the major problem in getting the right parts from MTH to make repairs.
I've messed with this model enough now. Tried doing the MTH reset but the model still surges.
I think I'll strip the MTH decoder out of this and install a Tsunami or an ESU decoder.
I also found out that MTH decided to switch the color of the common wire for the LEDs.
I guess this is starting to make the picture clear on why they're shutting down.
 

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i -think- you will have to change the wiring on the LEDs, yes ... to accomodate a reversed power / ground situation ..MTH didn't do a full compatability with DCC unfortunately ..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I found a project file on the ESU web site for the turbine sound. Once I get a new LokProgrammer I can download that and install an ESU decoder in the Veranda.
Something that just occurred to me. Are the MTH speakers a standard 8ohm or did they have a nonstandard speaker designed too.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Gave it one more shot to see if it was running right. Nope, full speed in speed step 1 on the throttle. Still no response from MTH to help find a repair shop.
I picked up the ESU decoder today with the Turbine sound file installed and tweaked.
Moved the model to the work bench and started the surgery.
First step, remove the shell then remove the smoke unit from the ceiling of the model.
Removed the mounting screws that hold the boards to the chassis.


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Clip the motor power leads then remove the rear motor and set aside for reinstall.
Remove the tach board and clip the wires as this will no longer be used.
Unplug and remove the DCS/DCC decoder board.
Clip wires from the rear light support board and set aside for reinstall.

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Clip wires from and remove the smoke unit control board.
Turn the chassis over and remove the coupler pockets to access the coupler control board. Clip the two wires from the coupler control board and remove them from their stays along the trucks then pull them up through the truck gear towers.
I accidentally cut the wires to the rear plugs right in the rear anticlimber that provide power to the tender back up light. I may replace those two connectors with one mini connector.

20201101_184813.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #6
A little more work on it today.
Installed the rear motor back onto the chassis then put the rear light board and decoder support board onto the chassis.
Had to cut away a screw post so the ESU decoder would sit flat on the support board.


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Installed the ESU decoder with double stick tape to the decoder support board then laid the wires out across the chassis to start making solder connections.

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Made solder connections for the track wires to the decoder.
Used a AA battery to check the direction turn of the motor then connected the motor wires to the decoder. Placed the loco so the wheels were off the table when they turned. Only the inner most truck is powered on this MTH model. The end truck picks up power from the track but only rolls free.

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Made the speaker connections to the decoder then over to the test track.
The decoder had already been programmed by my dealer so the address is already in there as well. My dealer had to do the programming because my LokProgrammer was electrocuted by lightning and never recovered.
The loco moves in the right directions. Sound comes up as it's supposed to and is very good with the MTH speakers. There are two of them. One in the fuel tank and one on the chassis.
Now to hook up the lights. I'll do that later tonight. Still thinkin on how to do that seeing as they are LEDs but backward from everyone else. Not sure what the voltage or current limitations are so I'll have to start very, very low and work up, changing polarity as I go so I don't destroy them. They are all mounted on circuit boards so I think the correct resistors and diodes are mounted already. If I burn one up, I'll have to replace it with the LEDs I have on hand so not a big show stopper.
There is a large capacitor on the forward light board. It can be seen sticking up to the right side of the chassis in the picture below. The other black thing below it is a piece of heat shrink tubing I put over a bundle of wires to keep them off the track while testing. I really don't know what that is for. There were a couple keep alive caps mounted below the decoder which I stripped out. Might have something to do with the headlights.


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Looking good there, Ken! Decoder installation usually isn't too hard, but you have to pay close attention to what you're doing. I have a BLI steamer that (Paragon 2 brass hybrid) that I'm thinking may need a new decoder. It's way out of warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Way to much stuff to do today for a retired person. I had about an hour this evening to work on it. Mostly tryin to determine how much resistance I need to put in line with the LED headlight and taillights.
Turns out the rear light on the loco was dead so I replaced that with a white LED. I think it will need a 180 ohm resistor in line with the ESU decoder output.
Once I get those things sorted out and soldered in place I can button this thing up and put it back into service.
The binding of the rear truck seems to be resolved. I ran it for a little bit while testing the decoder and it ran smooth.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Found the right combination of resistors for the LEDs and finished the decoder install.
Test ran it then put it back into service.

 

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D&J RR, Ken (*not to be confused wit d udder wun any longer !!),
you got some gorgeous stuff goin on here !!! Always awed by those Verandas which (forgetting now) are not the 'Big Blows' which I think are in the hole at 0:26. Yes ? Great sound, too !!!
Did /will you go back to smoke unit fix ? I didn't even know there were diesel-bodied turbine or any diesel smoke units, period !....Wher've I been ?
*M
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The smoke unit requires a higher power level decoder. ESU makes one, 5L which costs almost twice as much as the v5 decoder that I put in there. The part I wasn't to sure about was if it would fit in the shell.
Yeah, a GTEL Big Blow was sitting on the other track in the video.
 
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