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You can replace the back truck on caboose with the same postwar one i think if its not riveted to frame and held by a c -clip.
I love the wear on that engine as it shows the generations personal play wear that is only original to that particular engine.
Painting it would take all that history away in a minutes time so good for you to leave as is.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Thanks! Is it hard to find replacement parts for the Transformer? How do I find the parts list? I am going to need one gold post, a couple screws and a power cable I think.
 

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The set came with a pink version of the 1043 transformer. The attached pdf has the diagrams and part numbers for the generic 1043 transformer. The golden posts may be specific to the girls set. I'd email [email protected]. He'll know of he has the parts for your transformer. You want want to replace the cord as well if it shows any signs of cracking.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
The set came with a pink version of the 1043 transformer. The attached pdf has the diagrams and part numbers for the generic 1043 transformer. The golden posts may be specific to the girls set. I'd email [email protected]. He'll know of he has the parts for your transformer. You want want to replace the cord as well if it shows any signs of cracking.
Thanks a lot. Mine is white not pink...maybe it isn't the original? Email sent! :)
 

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O Scale MTH and Lionel 1952 set and newer
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That’s the Girl’s Train. Made in 1957 and also cataloged in 1958. It wasn’t very popular at the time and did not sell well.

Lionel made it again in 2001, but I’m not sure if the parts are interchangeable with the postwar set.

Here’s the Lionel page for the 2001 release and a parts list.

Girls Set (LOCO #2037) (lionel.com)

Lionel Train Replacement Parts, O Gauge Model Trains from Lionel Trains (lionelsupport.com)
556571

Image of the full original set. This screen shot taken from All Aboard Train Shop in Lincroft, NJ
 

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Think before you un-pink. You mentioned value was not a big consideration, but those Girl’s Sets commanded some pretty high prices. Not sure how much the condition devalues it, now.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Hi all, quick update. I got the parts from Lionel. The pilot fits, but it's not the same. There is only one hole for the end of the tracks to go in, the original has 3. My son is constantly asking me to fix the "snow plow" so I'm thinking of buying a black one and painting it pink. Is there a right way to do that? Otherwise I got the caboose all fixed up, just needs the connector on it now. I cleaned and lubed everything and it runs better than I've ever seen it. I remember as a kid it wouldn't pull the full load. After cleaning it, it would, but had no traction. I cleaned the wheels and lubed every car and now it runs like nothing it attached, it's amazing. My dad said it's never been cleaned of lubed since they got it in the late 50's as far as he knows. Thanks everyone! :)

557618
 

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I would think an original postwar 2037 steam chest/pilot would be an exact match. I can't imagine Lionel would have changed the basic casting for the pink color in the girl's set. Olsen's shows the steam chest part number as 2026-54. tttender.com has reproductions of that part. But there are variations from the original issue. I'd contact train jeff at ttender.com'. He would know.

Given the part is a reproduction with modern paint, I'd just paint over the black with a rattle can. Take a pink piece from the set at match it to a cap of Rustoleum or Kylon spray paint. My first choice of sheen would be satin, then flat. But use your actually pieces to guide you on that.

If your not experienced with spraying ... there's a number of techniques various modelers use. Mine ...

  • Make sure the can is room temperature or a little better. Sitting in the sun for an hour is a good way to warm it up.
  • Shake 3 times more than recommended. I hold the can in the middle and twist my wrist back and forth. More efficient than shaking your arm up and down.
  • Outside, a nice calm day and have a box to cover it after each spraying to avoid any airborne dirt/insects sticking to the fresh paint.
  • I'd spray the bottom first. The top the next day.
  • 4 extremely light coats 10 mins apart. Resist the urge for better coverage on the initial coats. They'll build to a uniform look. Time the coats. It only takes 1/2 hour start to finish.
  • Shake the can between coats. Start spraying ahead of the piece, sweep past it and then stop spraying. (practice a bit before the actual piece).
  • In the sun with a box over the fresh paint, it will begin to cure. But it won't be fully cured (e.g., hard) for a week. Be careful not to scratch it until cured.

Freshly painted, it will look out of place given the loco's current "patina". That may make you decide to do the rest of the loco. If that comes up, there's a few techniques for removing the old paint before spraying the new.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Thanks a lot, I'll grab the repro and spray paint it. Not going to paint the rest of it. It's one thing to paint the new part, another the original part. It's neat to see the wear caused by 60 years of play from the same family :) My son just REALLY wants that cow catcher repaired.
 
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