Well, that was what broke the camel's back. With the two standard AAA batteries that I used as a battery back while building and testing it, it weighed 12.3 oz, and ran perfectly, really sweet. But they were not rechargeable and two AAAs in series for 3V would only power it for about 15 minutes. I had always intended a bigger battery back and installed a pair of Li-Ion 18500 high capacity batteries in parallel to give it four times the energy storage - an hour of running before recharge. That, and an internal safety fuse ( I worry about shorting a Li-Ion battery this big) and it added about 3 ozs, and the steering would not function well. The added weight was only an additional 25% , but it changed the whole character, and not just the steergin. It ran like a pig: the motor/gearbox was struggling: it was running at 3.7V on the Li-Ion batteries vs 3 V with the AAAs and I expected it to be faster, but it wasn't - just a lot noisier (not a good sign).
I wondered why the thing was so heavy, as my chassis are usually about 2 oz when done and the batteries, I thought, weighed in at 3 oz. Surprise!! I discovered the bus body weight 9 oz! Even though I had shortened the original Corgi body and it was a thin-walled diecast, it was denser metal than most diecast models I guess. No way it should be that heavy!!!. I had figured it for about 4 oz. So I am replacing the body with a lighter one, and rebuilding/improving a few things. Hopefully by Friday . . .
Recently opened a box of my Lionel trains and found many of the plastic cars covered with a thin layer of mold. Any ideas on how to remove the mold without damaging or scarring the surface or paint on the cars? Thanks
So I am new to the hobby and am creating my layout. I have questions about whether or not I'll be needing circuit protection while using a new modern ZW-C. While I know powerbricks are used to power the transformer, if I somehow decide to use separate bricks or transformers to power separate...