Another break, the other curve is supported. I have little room to adjust so I will have to cut some track soon. I am using scrap lattes from sheet rocking I got from a neighbor. A little glue and 1/2 inch staples do the trick. The best part is working closer to the edge so it won't take 50 posts to complete. It may however take 5o to get the engine running. Here it is.
I went 5 inches on height. I had a few close calls.
One rule I have, is that the outer loop has to be high sky for the yacht.
When I made the curve I used the track as a template and screwed them at the ends. Then I fit the structure in place with supports. I did this at both sides first because of the lack of space. Then I fitted the sides.
The far side fit with three track section. Unbelievable!
The close side I was about 3/4 of an inch off so I will release the screws and play before I nail them down. Now I have four sections I can paint up and get ready for track after that.
I think the track will be fine The inside is over the edge after I completed the loop but I should just have enough slop for the track to fit. Talk about luck. Using the lattes the structure is steady and may not need to be tied down to the table.
Every post was fitting so everything would be flat with no rocking. After all, everthing isn't level. At least I don't have to look at pink!
My question, from reading the masters, Is my loop worth soldering up?
Then the paint shop.
Paint and wood putty hide all the mistakes. I am surprised at the joint strength with just glue and staples.
Congrats on going S !!! And, not that you'll hear it from me, but I'm sure some S-inclined "others" here on the forum will pat you on the back for "placing the S track elevated above all other scales" ... or something to that effect! :laugh:
Your layout will come out just great. You have some nifty features.
Today, I surprised myself with the stapling. The trestle will work. I am not sure about painting. I like my rock look. Seen any good stone/cement blocking wallpaper I can print out? My 300AC will run again!
Thanks for the suggestions.
I found two, stone and brick,but I need to process through paint.
The cost is good too. All scrap, and some cull lumber. I have never shown it but I have a small table saw. Just right for small work, The motor can barely get through a 2 by 4. Got that at the dump years ago.
I am going to use a freestock image. What I did was search Google images of brick and found this. I just copied it since I do not need the high resoltion. THen with paint I reduced it to 20 percent and cut and pasted to fill the page. I finished with two pages, This is how it looks.
I settled with 15 per cent reduction. 20 was the same as my stone so I opted for a smaller brick. I did notice that once the image is modified in paint it has to be printed with paint.
Here I have samples of 20 per cent and 15 per cent. Using 15 per cent I run the risk of washing out the image. Working with trestles is easy since the structure is small sided so the bricks will fill it in nicely. The repetition will be practically unnoticeable.
I used a yard sale Sherwin Williams,pottery urn,satin paint. I may keep it for he top. THe wallpaper will be only for the track siding and the trestle posts.
I definitely like the look of the bricks better... I also do not see any problem with using the 20% size... Since they are not all red, they could easily be interpreted as larger square building stones
My paper is ordinary. I need the paper pliable to wrap it around corners. I work fast because the glue will break down the paper. I cover the backside and the wood with glue before applying. Very occasionally, a piece will break but it goes back together well if you hide the white seam. On the stone, I used my wife's book binder glue at 6 bucks a bottle. Now I have a super secret replacement. Walmart school glue two for a buck. Ooops. Then I use a Mat Mod Podge to water proof and keep the colors in check. I apply both with a small sponge brush from the dollar store by the bag. Low budget all the way. In most cases the glue hasn't dried when I podge it up.
On the trestle I used a wood glue applied with gloved fingers, smoothed and primed with Kilns with the putty still wet. The paint is satin, pottery urn, an 800 ml sample. Then I felt guilty and sanded and touched up with spackling compound before the last coat. I did use a belt sander to round off the outside edges.
This technique was used on my backdrop building project. I may lay down some foam core and coat it with some paper finish. Maybe around a building to try it out. For the downside, the inkjet cartridge has suffered the most. The stone trestle link.
The cut and paste also made my Grand Hotel. I couldn't find the thread on but it is in my gallery.
Thanks for the paper/glue info above. You've mentioned the Mod Podge stuff before. I've never tried it. It sounds perfect for sealing the outside of the paper. Great tip, and nice hotel, too!
I've always been impressed with the ability of a simple paper building to convincingly fool one's eye. When I visited the Hartmann Model RR museum in NH earlier this summer, they had a whole room filled with paper building, cars, etc. Incredibly detail ... or one would think ... via simple printed paper facades, scenes, etc.