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Hello everyone! I am actually new to this forum and I just have a question about my mth railking ps3 m1a. I am unfamiliar with mth electric trains so please feel free to talk to me like I’m five.
I had recently purchased a railking m1a and I put it on the track. When I applied power from my z-1000 to the track, it didn’t move. I switched the wires around, and it still didn’t move.

It sat in its box for 4-5 years. I have read that once a dcs locomotive has been run in dcs mode, it will not run in conventional until factory reset. I don’t know if I’m that is the case. I don’t think that it is a fried bored. I would assume there would be a smell. It is one of the newer ones . It has the draw bar. I made sure everything was connected well and good. But it will not move. The lights don’t come on and there is no sound.

The electro coupler fired randomly though. Idk how. The track I am using is lionel fast track. I heard that my z-1000 may not be giving enough power but idk if that’s the case. Has anyone else experienced this and know what to do?
 

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This sounds familiar. I have an RK M1a that has given me more trouble than all my other locos combined. Sounds like your wireless drawbar has come loose. I had trouble with mine coming loose at the cab end (probably due to tight wires). Even if you have checked it, check it again. I’ve had times when I thought all was tight, but a very slight gap caused problems. You should also take a close look at the drawbar. I had one that had a slight defect and when I replaced it, the engine ran fine. Here’s a thread with a few details.

MTH PS3 Steamer Stutters When It Smokes

On that loco, it is possible for the exposed contacts on the drawbar to contact the trailing truck on the loco and kill the boards. That may be your problem. Here’s a few threads about that.

Insulating MTH PS3 Drawbar

MTH steamer draw bars
 

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Hello everyone! I am actually new to this forum and I just have a question about my mth railking ps3 m1a. I am unfamiliar with mth electric trains so please feel free to talk to me like I’m five.
I had recently purchased a railking m1a and I put it on the track. When I applied power from my z-1000 to the track, it didn’t move. I switched the wires around, and it still didn’t move.

It sat in its box for 4-5 years. I have read that once a dcs locomotive has been run in dcs mode, it will not run in conventional until factory reset. I don’t know if I’m that is the case. I don’t think that it is a fried bored. I would assume there would be a smell. It is one of the newer ones . It has the draw bar. I made sure everything was connected well and good. But it will not move. The lights don’t come on and there is no sound.

The electro coupler fired randomly though. Idk how. The track I am using is lionel fast track. I heard that my z-1000 may not be giving enough power but idk if that’s the case. Has anyone else experienced this and know what to do?
This sounds familiar. I have an RK M1a that has given me more trouble than all my other locos combined. Sounds like your wireless drawbar has come loose. I had trouble with mine coming loose at the cab end (probably due to tight wires). Even if you have checked it, check it again. I’ve had times when I thought all was tight, but a very slight gap caused problems. You should also take a close look at the drawbar. I had one that had a slight defect and when I replaced it, the engine ran fine. Here’s a thread with a few details.

MTH PS3 Steamer Stutters When It Smokes

On that loco, it is possible for the exposed contacts on the drawbar to contact the trailing truck on the loco and kill the boards. That may be your problem. Here’s a few threads about that.

Insulating MTH PS3 Drawbar

MTH steamer draw bars
So by check you mean open the unit and see if anything is causing it to short or check the contact between the drawbar and such.
 

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Hello everyone! I am actually new to this forum and I just have a question about my mth railking ps3 m1a. I am unfamiliar with mth electric trains so please feel free to talk to me like I’m five.
I had recently purchased a railking m1a and I put it on the track. When I applied power from my z-1000 to the track, it didn’t move. I switched the wires around, and it still didn’t move.
First off, how about the exact MTH model number.

Top suspect is the drawbar seating. What I do is lay it on it's side on a rag or towel and connect the drawbar, then I set it on the track as a unit.

It sat in its box for 4-5 years. I have read that once a dcs locomotive has been run in dcs mode, it will not run in conventional until factory reset.
That is totally false, having run DCS has no bearing on the ability to run conventional at a later date.
The electro coupler fired randomly though. Idk how. The track I am using is lionel fast track. I heard that my z-1000 may not be giving enough power but idk if that’s the case. Has anyone else experienced this and know what to do?
Here's the real clue. STOP TRYING TO RUN IT RIGHT NOW! You have some sort of short or other malfunction. Don't keep trying at this point without locating the issue, you'll only do more damage!
 

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Does the peice look like this?
Yes that is the plastic insulator that can rotate out of position. I apply some liquid tape to the exposed solder joints on the bottom of the drawbar and then put the plastic insulator in place (before the liquid tape cures).

But John said that the random firing of the coupler indicates bigger problems so it sounds like you should take it to an MTH ASC certified technician.
 

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Idk why it’s doing it. It hasn’t even been run. And I don’t think it is a fried bored. I would assume there would be a odor and such. I opened the tender and the engine appeared to be fine. The boards looked fine too.
 

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Maybe. I was also trying to fire the coupler too so as I remember I was pressing the button for the sequence. It didn’t happen until a few moments later. You maybe right. I’ll see what it is on Wednesday. I hope it isn’t that big a fix.
 

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When you get symptoms like that with a PS/3 locomotive, it's time to take stock of the situation without power, the boards are very fragile and almost 100% non-repairable! Any short to frame of any lead with PS/2 or PS/3 is very bad for the health of the boards.
 

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Correct, that's why it's helpful to divide and conquer. My first step in a scenario like that is to test the PS/3 board set on my PS/3 board test set. If the boards test out, then I know I have to find the problem in the wiring of the locomotive or tender.
 
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