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If I am not mistake to use flex track then I could not use Kato, Would have to use Peco Does peco make flex track or have to mix in Flex track from Atlas and will they work together?

Andrew
Andrew;

You are not mistaken. Flex track and Kato turnouts are not designed to just plug into each other. While it is technically possible to adapt Kato turnouts and connect them to flex track. Kato turnouts are really designed to work only with Kato track. Both Kato turnouts, and Kato track pieces, are manufactured with a permanently-attached gray plastic "roadbed" piece under each piece of track. Peco, Atlas, and Micro Engineering, turnouts & track, do not have this roadbed piece attached.
The sensible plan would be to use either Kato track & Kato turnouts, OR use Peco turnouts, and whatever brand of flex track you want. Yes, Peco does make flex track., so if you prefer non-roadbed type track, you could use Peco turnouts and Peco flex track. However, plain track, (the kind without the plastic roadbed), is typically compatible from brand to brand. So you can easily mix & match brands.
As an example, Peco flex track is not commonly carried by many hobby shops, but Atlas flex track is. To get Peco flex track, you would need to have the shop special order it for you, or order it yourself online. Peco flex is also more expensive than Atlas flex track. So, if you wanted, you could use Peco turnouts with Atlas flex track. (Many have done just that.) That way you would have decent flex track, at a lower price, and excellent turnouts, a winning combination.

The only thing necessary for connecting one brand of plain (non-roadbed) track ,to another brand of turnout, or track, is to have the same "rail code" on the two track brands you want to connect. So what is rail code? It is simply the height of the rails in thousandths of an inch. For instance, two popular track types/codes commonly used in HO-scale are "Code 100" and "Code 83." The Code 100 rails are 100/1000ths" high and the Code 83 rails are 83/1000ths" high. Either code track will work fine. The Code 83 track just looks a little more realistic, in terms of rail size. The rail codes are all about appearance, not function.
So, if you decide to use Peco turnouts, they are available in either code 100, or code 83. Track, (whether Peco or Atlas), is also available in either code 100, or code 83. Just pick one code, and use track, and turnouts, that all have the same code.
While it is possible to mate two pieces of track with different rail codes, you're just starting out, so I recommend keeping things simple, by just using one code.
Good Luck & Have Fun;

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Here is a video on how to incorporate Kato Unitrack with Flex Track using the Kato adapter piece.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fE_lx8MBTAY
 

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OP, I meant to post this for you, I was not sure if you saw this, but I have always thought is was a clever idea for a door layout.


You can see his track plan at 37 seconds on his command center diagram BTW.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Train Vehicle Wheel Motor vehicle Rolling stock


Like I had said before I used to volunteer at Branford Trolley museum in CT. This is brooklyn El car 1349 built in 1905, The same year my granddad was born. Anyway when I first went there this car was dead rotting in one of the barns. Ended up with a lot of help rebuilding the motor truck, Needed the wheel sets to be run through the wheel lath. Each Wheel set is about 1 thousand lbs, Each motor are about 5 1/2 tons each. Also redid the roof as it had more holes then swiss cheese and put down a new canvas. Was a big learning curve. Also put on the trolley poles as this car did not have them but it has the wiring for it as when they originally build had trolley poles for street operation but later removed.


On another note I ordered the book on modeling the 50's , Ended up finding it on ebay for 21 dollars, Amazon had a copy for 27 and also for 67 lol. Must be out of print.
 

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As an example, Peco flex track is not commonly carried by many hobby shops, but Atlas flex track is. To get Peco flex track, you would need to have the shop special order it for you, or order it yourself online.
It may be best to use whatever brand of flex track your LHS sells - Atlas and Peco flex track are sometimes only sold online in "wholesale" quantities like packs of 25 for $150.00.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I found a nice plan I like but it was made with Atlas RTS. Is there anyway to convert it or import it into something like Anyrail? That would give me a leg up on knowing about what pieces of track I will need since RTS will just tell me in Atlas and not any other brand.

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Thank you

If I am not mistake to use flex track then I could not use Kato, Would have to use Peco Does peco make flex track or have to mix in Flex track from Atlas and will they work together?

Andrew
You can mix and match any track pieces that do not have roadbed attached right out of the box, as long as the code of the rail is the same. Mixing roadbed track from different manufacturers, roadbed and non-roadbed track, or rail of different heights (codes) can be done, but it requires a little more effort to make things align and join properly. It's all manufactured to National Model Railroad Assn (NMRA) standards, so it all fits together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
You can mix and match any track pieces that do not have roadbed attached right out of the box, as long as the code of the rail is the same. Mixing roadbed track from different manufacturers, roadbed and non-roadbed track, or rail of different heights (codes) can be done, but it requires a little more effort to make things align and join properly. It's all manufactured to National Model Railroad Assn (NMRA) standards, so it all fits together.
I get that is there any way to merge that last track plan into the anyrail system? As RTS will just tell me parts needed in Atlas but not have a clue about kato.

I asked for help from trainworld to figure out aprox what I would need in track and the response I got was we do not do track planing. Hmmm ok not asking for track planing but figuring out what kato track I would need to make this plan work. I do not have a clue about what turnouts and so on. I saw what part I would need to connect Kato to Atlas or any other track. Kato makes a part to use with their unirail system. The Atlas turntable is like 50 dollars when Kato is like 300
 

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I found a nice plan I like but it was made with Atlas RTS. Is there anyway to convert it or import it into something like Anyrail? That would give me a leg up on knowing about what pieces of track I will need since RTS will just tell me in Atlas and not any other brand.
There is no conversion tool, no. But it's simplicity itself to do. If the Atlas plan calls for a 9" straight, part number 12-234, you can use any other manufacturer's 9" straight piece. Even if RTS only gives you the ir part number, not description, it's not hard to look those up. You can even substitute a 9" piece of flex track cut from a longer piece. Same for a curve (although you can bend a standard 36" length of flex track into 90 degrees of 18" curve with ease).

The only place you will run into a little trouble is with turnouts. First of all, no two manufacturers have exactly the same dimensions, even if they're the same type. A bigger issue is that the layout is almost certainly designed using Snap Switches, which have a CURVED diverging leg, whereas better quality turnouts have a STRAIGHT diverging leg. This will require a lot of tweaking in your part, unless you stick with those. And as previously stated, the quality of those ain't so hot.

You may also run into some issues with that sloped yellow section. It may turn out to be unacceptably steep (anything over 2% should be approached with caution; over 3% should be avoided).

EDIT: seeing your, last post, don't be too hard on Trainworld. What you were asking them to do isn't DIFFICULT, but it is time consuming, and they know as well as I do that changing the turnout type would require some replanning or adjusting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
There is no conversion tool, no. But it's simplicity itself to do. If the Atlas plan calls for a 9" straight, part number 12-234, you can use any other manufacturer's 9" straight piece. Even if RTS only gives you the ir part number, not description, it's not hard to look those up. You can even substitute a 9" piece of flex track cut from a longer piece. Same for a curve (although you can bend a standard 36" length of flex track into 90 degrees of 18" curve with ease).

The only place you will run into a little trouble is with turnouts. First of all, no two manufacturers have exactly the same dimensions, even if they're the same type. A bigger issue is that the layout is almost certainly designed using Snap Switches, which have a CURVED diverging leg, whereas better quality turnouts have a STRAIGHT diverging leg. This will require a lot of tweaking in your part, unless you stick with those. And as previously stated, the quality of those ain't so hot.

You may also run into some issues with that sloped yellow section. It may turn out to be unacceptably steep (anything over 2% should be approached with caution; over 3% should be avoided).
Is there a good sorce for N scale plans that are done in the anyrail system? Or someone out there that does track planing and can convert this track plan to something that will work with Kato with out issue. I do not have to make the grades like they have theme listed in this plan I found.
 

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Did you try the Anyrail website? They have a bunch there. Or take an HO one and scale it down.

Or just take Anyrail and design your own, using other plans for inspiration. It would take about 15 minutes to do something in Anyrail that is similar to, but not an exact replica of, the layout in post #26. I basically just told you how above.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Did you try the Anyrail website? They have a bunch there. Or take an HO one and scale it down.

Or just take Anyrail and design your own, using other plans for inspiration. It would take about 15 minutes to do something in Anyrail that is similar to, but not an exact replica of, the layout in post #26. I basically just told you how above.
I did I am waiting on forum acses now to their site. I tried the any rail system but I can not really figure the darn thing out how to remake that track plan. Maybe someone reading this might be nice enough to do it for me?

Andrew
 

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I did I am waiting on forum acses now to their site. I tried the any rail system but I can not really figure the darn thing out how to remake that track plan. Maybe someone reading this might be nice enough to do it for me?

Andrew
I will do it for the sake of an old Nutmegger, although I really think you're gonna have to spread your wings and leave the nest pretty soon. Send me a PM with your e-mail address.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I will do it for the sake of an old Nutmegger, although I really think you're gonna have to spread your wings and leave the nest pretty soon. Send me a PM with your e-mail address.
Thank you so much, I tried to set the original plan as a background but each time I followed the directions it was not giving me an option to set it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Anyone make Model structures for N scale that are the most realistic? Possibly even wood and not plastic?
 

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Anyone make Model structures for N scale that are the most realistic? Possibly even wood and not plastic?
Yes. There are laser-cut wood kits available in N-scale. A member called JeffHurl has posted photos of several wood structures he has built.
Plastic structures can also be made quite realistic looking by painting and detailing them. You can also scratchbuild structures with either wood or styrene. The photos show some examples on my layout. All are N-scale, some are commercial plastic kits, many are scratchbuilt, and some are kitbashed. The attached file lists some American style homes that are available in N-scale. There are also many railroad and industrial structures available.

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Yes, the manufacturer and kit name are in the posts.

I bought a Walther's kit that had 13 plastic structure kits included in the box. 12 of them are buildings like you might find in a large rural county seat. The 13th kit was a small industrial building that is a transfer station, sort of like a cross dock warehouse served by rail and road. I bought it second hand, with six of the structures already built. I built the rest and painted them.

That kit did a good job of providing the heart of the town, but I needed houses and smaller buildings to round out the town.

I like American Model Builders and also Blair Line for laser cut wood kits. I haven't tried too many other manufacturers.

I have bought from several online retailers like Hobbylink, Midwest Model Railroad, Yankee Dabbler, etc.
 

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Anyone make Model structures for N scale that are the most realistic? Possibly even wood and not plastic?
"Most realistic" can be defined several ways, either a highly accurate reproduction of a real building, or that just have lots of detail so they look real.

If you were to Google "N-scale building kits", you would get hundreds (maybe thousands) of results. Whether made of wood or plastic, few models look like a real building out of the box. Generally, the more expensive the model, the more detailed it is, but wood isn't necessarily more realistic than plastic. It more depends on which material you prefer to work with. Painting, weathering, and adding extra details make building kits look much better.

Walthers is the largest wholesaler in North America. While they don't carry everything, they have a huge selection (including their own Cornerstone line, which are high quality plastic kits). Their website is www.walthers.com
 
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