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Discussion Starter #1
I am using NCE DCC. The coiled cable is a bit problematic for me...since i am a bit careless. Hoping that someone might give a hint or two.

Not being very careful when using the control, i will tug at the coiled cable trying to stretch it too far in order to operate a turnout, etc. It doesn't take long before i have pulled once to often and the cable is destroyed. (But i never had that trouble when we land lines on the telephone....they used to take a lot of abuse!!) I have tried to put some hot glue on the cable as it enters the connector to make it more secure. But doesn't seem to work. Other than being more careful, any ideas how i might reinforce the cable as it enters the connector. Thanks
 

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Well, you really can't, because the tug is pulling on the wires inside, too, not just the casing.

My best recommendation would be to upgrade to wireless throttles. Digitrax and MRC both have an upgrade kit to enable you to do this. Not sure if that's an option with NCE yet.
 

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Hi Steamloco, I think you can strain-relieve the connector with a cable clamp, zip-tie, rubber band, etc. There are probably a thousand ways to do this,
some more industrial-strength than others. :D
Just tie down the end of the cable onto the remote, just before the connector. IMO.
You can extend the cable, if it's too short. Also, possibly locate the base a bit more centrally. What length of cable do you have?
Wireless is likely the cleanest option, like CVT says.
 

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I am using NCE DCC. The coiled cable is a bit problematic for me...since i am a bit careless. Hoping that someone might give a hint or two.

Not being very careful when using the control, i will tug at the coiled cable trying to stretch it too far in order to operate a turnout, etc. It doesn't take long before i have pulled once to often and the cable is destroyed. (But i never had that trouble when we land lines on the telephone....they used to take a lot of abuse!!) I have tried to put some hot glue on the cable as it enters the connector to make it more secure. But doesn't seem to work. Other than being more careful, any ideas how i might reinforce the cable as it enters the connector. Thanks
steamloco;

As suggested, a wireless throttle would be great. If you can't do that, here are two other possibilities.
The plug & jack used on the NCE powercab is a common RJ45 8-pin connector used in data line, and some telephone connections. You could buy a longer cable, possibly with, or certainly without, the coiling. I replaced my NCE Powercab's original, non-coiled, cable, with a heavy duty coiled phone cable. I had to cut an RJ45 connector from another cable and solder the wires from it to the phone cable. Any of these longer cables would give you a longer reach.

The jack receptacle that the NCE controller plugs into could be duplicated, with controller jacks around various areas of the fascia on your layout. You would need to check to see if your NCE controller will let a train keep moving if you unplug the controller after you get the train going. Not all controllers have this "memory throttle" capability. If it does work, great. If it does not, then you would need to stop all trains, move the controller to a different jack, and then restart the trains. In either case, it will be necessary to wire all the jacks the same way as the original, color for color on all jacks.

Alternatively since the controller can't reach those distant turnouts easily , how about moving the turnout control function closer to the throttle/controller, or even inside it?
If your turnouts are operated electrically, then route the wires from their switch machines to a turnout control panel near the NCE unit.
Or, you could use a stationary DCC decoder to operate the switch machines. This would let you control the turnouts right on your NCE controller.
Even if your turnouts are manual, it's still possible to control them remotely.
I used simple, rod-inside-a-tube, mechanical linkages to operate the turnouts on my grandson's layout. Push/Pull knobs operate the turnouts through these linkages.
The attached files about "$5 switch machines" show how to build another variation of this mechanical linkage scheme. The "$5 switch machine is a straight mechanical alternative to the popular Tortoise, electromechanical, switch machine, minus the electric motor, but performing all the same functions.

Good Luck & Have Fun!

Traction Fan 🙂
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Something that i can't help wondering about: When i was younger, so much younger than today, our phones had a receiver connected to a base with a coiled cable (princess phone for example)very similar to the NCE cable. That thing was pulled and tugged by a couple of teenagers and did not die? How come the same thing cannot be said of the NCE cable?
 

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Trains will stop if you unplug the controller from the fascia panel.
 

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The hand held throttle must be plugged into the panel type dedicated to it. It's different than the daisy chained satellite panels we can add from it along the fascia...If you unplug the throttle all will go dead...
What about an extension cable ? Contact NCE and see if there's one..Try ebay say, 'NCE cables' or such...
Also, if that turnout is manual, why not just put the throttle down first, go over to and throw the turnout, and walk back to the 'Cab' like the 1:1 scalers do frequently ? M 🛤🌄
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I use SB 5 to power the panels on the facia. The throttle is plugged into the fascia in the panels called for in this application. Thus the throttle (Procab...not power cab) CAN be unplugged and the engines will continue to run. The whole thing would be moot if i would just remember to unplug before moving along, but obviously, i forget.
 

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I see. I never have any reason to unplug my Powercab, but I did so once to see what would happen. My fascia panel is fairly centrally located and I can reach any area of the layout without straining the cable.

I may eventually have to convert to your type setup as I add more sound equipped locomotives and lighting.
 
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