[johnfm3]

I need assistance in removing the shell of an old Athearn Blue Box Southern Pacific 1984 Olympics 7347.

Ideally, if someone could provide instructions on youtube, that would be great.

The model I have has a shell with a dimple on eachside of the front and rear. I have tried to remove this shell, and am concerned about cracking the shell.

I have provided some pictures, they show up on the web site upside down.

 

[johnfm3]

Interesting, when I click the pictures, and then click on them again they show up in the correct orientation.

 

[Andreash]

You have to spread the shell. I typically get one side of the shell off the dimples, and the next side is easy. You could use a jewellers flat screwdriver near the dimple (between chassis and shell to release the shell from the dimple as well...cheers

 

[johnfm3]

You have to spread the shell. I typically get one side of the shell off the dimples, and the next side is easy. You could use a jewellers flat screwdriver near the dimple (between chassis and shell to release the shell from the dimple as well...cheers

Thats not working. It looks like only the area around the dimple is pulling away. The center section above the tank is staying in place. I have used 2 jewelers flat screwdrivers (one at each dimple on one side) with no luck. As I am terrified to crack the shell, I want to see it done.

John

 

[T-Man]

Picture three spread the shell right there from both sides and let the frame drop out.

 

[johnfm3]

Picture three spread the shell right there from both sides and let the frame drop out.

Can you please explain why it seems like the middle is attached in some manor? Is there anyone that has at least pictures of what this looks like?

 

[johnfm3]

I am not willing to risk these as the 2 I have are in near perfect condition.

 

[Eilif]

I've got the same model at home and I don't think the blue trucks are original.

Looks like someone may have painted the trucks and underframe to match and gotten some paint in there that is holding it together. I'd run a razor blade between the frame and the body all along the inside of the outer edge to see if something is sticking in there.

Good luck. I second those who say little jewlers screwdrivers or small wood shims are the key. One for each nub. Take it slow, I've cracked a few old BB shells by going to quickly.

I'll take a look at mine later today and see if anything looks different.

 

[johnfm3]

I've got the same model at home and I don't think the blue trucks are original.

Looks like someone may have painted the trucks and underframe to match and gotten some paint in there that is holding it together. I'd run a razor blade between the frame and the body all along the inside of the outer edge to see if something is sticking in there.

Good luck. I second those who say little jewlers screwdrivers or small wood shims are the key. One for each nub. Take it slow, I've cracked a few old BB shells by going to quickly.

I'll take a look at mine later today and see if anything looks different.

Dude, thats good to know. I would love to see what your model looks like. I just assumed mine was original as the blue looks pretty consistant. If its been modified like you say, then I want to correct that.

Thanks for the help.

 

[johnfm3]

Out of curiosity I looked up the real one, it has a blue frame and trucks. Meaning, I would hope athearn would do it right and send it out like mine. I will still do as you suggest and see what I can do.

Start on the front set of dimples, then try the rear set.

 

[johnfm3]

I've got the same model at home and I don't think the blue trucks are original.

I'll take a look at mine later today and see if anything looks different.

Eilif,
Do you have your model converted to DCC? If so, I have a few questions to run past you.

foremost, I looking for a dcc ready board which sits on the motor and has a plug (such as a 21 pin) for a sound decoder. Do you have any suggestions for options. I have seen some of the genesis motors which have tabs up top for a board to sit and be wired to the train and a plug to accept the decoder. I am assuming a rectangle speaker secured to the inside of the shell is the only really clean option.

Have not been successful at getting the shell off yet.

 

[johnfm3]

Or just installing a tsunami TSU-PNP board. Again, I need a motor which will have the mounting points to accept the board.

 

[Eilif]

No DCC conversions yet for me I'm afraid. I think I've seen where folks glue a piece of styrene to the top of the motor as a morning place for a board. I think that folks who convert to DCC often switch to a can motor but I don't think it's absolutely necessary.

I checked mine and as you say, the blue is original. Mine unfortunately has one broken tab but this is one of the locos I picked up for a song at a show in December so I won't complain. Especially since it runs pretty well even before I have had a chance to clean it.

 

[T-Man]

Can you please explain why it seems like the middle is attached in some manor? Is there anyone that has at least pictures of what this looks like?

This guy uses a screwdriver to get under the tab you show in picture three

I would hold the engine just above a table with my index fingers on those tabs and thumbs on the shell. Gently pull sideways and let the motor drop. Your couplers will not get in the way and do not need removal.

I found this and he explains his way in the beginning.
Sorry, I do not have one to show you.

 

[johnfm3]

I was successful at pulling the shell off. It took warming the shell so it was more malleable.

Here are the some pictures showing how clean this model is.
Why are these pictures upside down??? :-(

 

[T-Man]

It may be a camera setting. An auto feature.

 

[Big Ed]

Strange.......like you said when you click a second time the pictures are right side up.

Very clean looks like new.

 

[johnfm3]

Strange.......like you said when you click a second time the pictures are right side up.

Very clean looks like new.

I know, and the pictures show up the correct orientation on my phone, as well as any PC I open it up on.

Thanks for the comment on my train. I got very lucky with it. And why I am very cautious when touching this model. I am assuming this has to have been built close to the 1984 Olympics putting this model almost 30yrs old.

I am going to get DCC and sound installed at some time. For now, I am installing non sound dcc NCE decoder.

I need to sort out how to get lights on this model. It looks like I need to use fiber optic cord.

Thanks again to everyone to invested time to comment.

John

 

[Old_Hobo]

I have had issues with upside down pics, but I think it is because I took them using an iPhone....something about Apple products.....maybe try flipping the phone around, as the phone lens might be "upside down".....I don't know.....

Question: how did you "warm the shell"....without damaging/melting it?

 

[johnfm3]

I have had issues with upside down pics, but I think it is because I took them using an iPhone....something about Apple products.....maybe try flipping the phone around, as the phone lens might be "upside down".....I don't know.....

Ok, here is a test picture of my Life Like Proto 2k's E9's

Edited: Camera (cell phone) flipped upside down give a picture in the correct orientation. hmm