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Discussion Starter #21
Question: how did you "warm the shell"....without damaging/melting it?
Dont shoot me for this... I let the model sit below a heater vent on each side. Rotating the loco every min or so while monitoring by trying to pull 1 side of the shell off. I used razor blades towards the front and rear nub to pry with till the shell popped up over both nubs.

I have a gas furnace in the house. Air coming out of the vents is suppose to be around 110 degrees. So a short amount of time 6 inches away from the vent while carefully monitoring did the trick. Only took a few min to get it warm enough to flex and not crack.

John
 

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Well, that's not a shootable offence.....:)

I was thinking maybe a shot of hot air from a hair dryer, being careful not to over it of course.

Glad it worked for you! :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I will be installing a non sound decoder for the short term. May install sound in the dummy unit. But for now, get the decoder installed and look at how to light this thing with LEDs. Its looking like I need .040 fiber.

Has anyone here played with it? How flexible is it?
 

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I saw this thread late and when I started reading it I was hoping you didn’t encounter the same weird situation I did a several years ago with an Athearn loco from eBay.
The shell had been glued to the frame.
Whoever did it did a heck of a job, too.

Why anyone would do this...well, you’re never gonna get an answer to that. I tried everything including heat, solvent. Xacto knives. Nothing worked.
Normally I check locos when they arrive, but I didn’t with this one. Mistake.
I didn’t damage it and sold it on eBay with a note about the glued shell. It sold, no questions asked.
I’m glad you got yours removed.
Luckily I’ve gotten used to weird things happening to me lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I saw this thread late and when I started reading it I was hoping you didn’t encounter the same weird situation I did a several years ago with an Athearn loco from eBay.
The shell had been glued to the frame.
Whoever did it did a heck of a job, too.

Why anyone would do this...well, you’re never gonna get an answer to that. I tried everything including heat, solvent. Xacto knives. Nothing worked.
Normally I check locos when they arrive, but I didn’t with this one. Mistake.
I didn’t damage it and sold it on eBay with a note about the glued shell. It sold, no questions asked.
I’m glad you got yours removed.
Luckily I’ve gotten used to weird things happening to me lol.
That is good to know. Thanks ~ John
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Hey everyone, I am back at this thread again. I am looking at what it would take to install a sound decoder setup. And I would like it to look as if its factory installed.

One of the issues I keep facing is poor motor performance on my DCC converted loco's. Specifically on start. Having to turn the throttle to almost 50% to just get my other loco's started. I really think I need to update the motors on those loco's then try tuning them again.

So with my 1984 Olympic loco, I would like see about swapping the motor with one which was used on a DCC model, along with the correct DCC sound decoder to that motor.

So how new a Athern SD40-2 model would I have to find parts for to convert this? I would like to find a motor and a dcc sound decoder which secures on the motor like some of the newer models. I am assuming I would need the following parts...

Motor w/mounts
DCC Sound Decoder
Worm Gears
Drive Shafts
Speaker

John
 

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"I am looking at what it would take to install a sound decoder setup. And I would like it to look as if its factory installed."

My best advice:
BUY a NEW GP40 with dcc and sound factory installed.
Then it will "look that way".
(this is a serious reply)
 

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Discussion Starter #28
As much I know your being serious, its not possible. As the 1984 Olympics scheme is not being produced. And the method used to attach the body has changed enough that I can not swap my body on a new chassis.

That leaves me only one option. Find the parts nessesary to convert my existing loco and install as close to factory as possible.

Given how clean my model is, it deserves not to be hacked together.

After I get the DCC and Sound sorted out, I need to work on lighting and the possibility of using fiber.

John
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Has anyone had any experience with the A-Line re powering kit in SD40-2?

A Line Re Powering Kit

It looks like it meets my needs, and a dcc / sound decoder like this will sit on it properly.

SoundTrax Tsunami2

If these parts work, this will be about as close to factory as possible. Mounting the speaker will be what ever it turns out to be.
 

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The A Line is for a Athearn Genesis model not for a RTR, you need to go to Product Search: Athearn Trains to find the parts that you need, like HO High Performance Motor, DCC Compatible (1) (ATH84080): Athearn Trains and you can uses your own fly wheel off your old model or can buy one with them HO High Perfo Mtr w/Flywhls, DCC Compatible (1) (ATH84086): Athearn Trains, but you will need these HO Drive Shaft, SD40-2 1.39"(6) (ATH48060): Athearn Trains. You can use your old motor mounting pads or you can use the new ones New Motor Mounting Pad, 4 Pads/8 Screws (ATH84028): Athearn Trains and you can use this too HO DCC Adapter Board, Locomotive (1) (ATH90616): Athearn Trains, but will it will limit what kind of decoder you can use or this HO RTR DC-21 Pin Motherboard for LEDs (1) (ATH67240): Athearn Trains
look for the best deals on line
 

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Discussion Starter #31
The A Line is for a Athearn Genesis model not for a RTR...look for the best deals on line
Tom, you rock. That's what I needed to see. Now I have the parts saved on this thread. Thanks.

Even purchasing thru Athern, its only $75. I could not find a sound loco on ebay for that cost.
 

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You have to look if it is in stock at Athearn, Online hobby stores will have it cheaper, plus the cost of the sound decoder

You do not have to use the adapter board, the adapter will make it only DCC ready
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Tom, one part is missing. What about the worm gear coupler for the truck side of the drive shaft? Do you happen to know what part that is?
 

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I'm puzzled by your 50% throttle remark. Do you mean that when your running DC mode, your DCC equipped Locomotive require a 50% throttle to get started? If so then it's probably normal and will disappear when you convert to using a DCC controller. Remotoring will not change this.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Do you mean that when your running DC mode, your DCC equipped Locomotive require a 50% throttle to get started?
No, I mean I have to turn my DCC controller almost to 50% before the loco starts moving. And the slowest movement is not very slow at all. Def not something I would couple the train with. And I have tried all the tuning I could with little satisfaction. And in no way compared to my factory dcc models.

I am really thinking I am having a issue with the stock DC motors. All of which are pre 1990's. Only my factory DCC models work correctly with a starting speed at 4% throttle and really slow smooth movement and acceleration.
 

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That's an entirely different problem! I'll let DCC tuning experts tackle that. I still don't think motor needs to be changed however.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
If you bought the motor with no flywheel you can use the flywheels from your old motor and drive shaft
Interesting thought. How hard is it to move the flywheels? I would think they would be a tight fit requiring heat to remove.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
The A Line is for a Athearn Genesis model not for a RTR....look for the best deals on line
Tom,
You nailed it in the parts list so far. I have not tried fitting the drive lines, but the motor and motherboard combination is solid. And it fits great in the shell.

To anyone looking at this thread, the motherboard sits on-top of the motor via long clip similar to the brass clips on top an bottom that hold the motor together and transmit the electricity to the contacts. With this configuration, there is no need for a M+ (motor) wire. Just hook up the M- to the board. And if you buy a new motor, it comes with a real nice pig tail with a clip making for a solder-less contact to M- and M+.

I need to buy a loco wiring kit to do this right, as soon as it comes in I will wire this thing up and get pictures.

I need to decide how to deal with lighting. Kind of looking going the plasti optic cable if I can find it in the correct size.

I am open to all suggestions for a clean lighting install.

John
 
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