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Discussion Starter #41
So after working with Tom in a off-line conversation, we got a good solution. The 1.39 drive shafts didnt work out. They would move all the way in the flywheel, and fall out of the worm coupler.

In the end, I Tom found the 1.477 drive shafts (part number ATH90123), and those fit in nicely and dont fall out when shifted one way or the other.

Unsure the reason. Maybe due to the brass worm and coupler I bought vs the plastic worm and coupler Tom showed. Although they show the same part number.

I am waiting for my NEC loco wiring kit to show up. 8 different colors each 10ft long. Two 30gauge colors, and six 32gauge colors. All of it stranded and ultra flex.

As soon as the wiring kit shows up, I will start assembling the loco's.

I am still looking for advice and suggestions for lighting options.

John
 

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Discussion Starter #43
I am thinking the Tsunami2 21PNEM. I am not sure if my model is a EMD or EMD-2 as there is no description I could find on the difference.

More so, the locomotive runs a 645 prime mover. If I recall correctly. I can not find if its a Turbo or non Turbo, but the sound decoder can do both including a dual 645 Turbo.

I have not decided how to handle the speaker installation of this yet as I want to get lighting sorted out and installed first.

John
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Check here EMD 645 - Wikipedia, EMD 16 Cylinder 645E3 prime mover

Thanks for the link. It looks like the decoder I want to go with will work.

So upon closer inspection of my Dummy loco, even though the trucks have the electrical pickups, they have plastic wheels and no gears. So now I need to locate those parts.

Complete Trucks...
Front Truck (1) 44011
Rear Truck (1) 44012

Truck Parts...
16T gears (8) 41020
23T gears (2) 40030
Drive Wheels (6) 40019

I am thinking all part numbers are prefixed with ATH

And the search begins. If anyone has any part locos, let me know.

Thanks,
John
 

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16T gears (8) 41020 HO Idler Gear, 16-Tooth (6) (ATH41020): Athearn Trains
23T gears (2) 40030 HO Idler Gear, 23-Tooth (4) (ATH40030): Athearn Trains
Drive Wheels (6) HO RTR Locomotive Wheel Assembly, 40" (6) (ATH40028): Athearn Trains use the new ones

Compare the new drive wheels to the old ones you will see the different

Make sure you have front and back trucks, not 2 fronts or 2 back, I have a BB SW/1500 calf with 2 fronts with plastic wheels and no gears that I wanted to add power too but I can't
 

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Discussion Starter #47

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Discussion Starter #48
Make sure you have front and back trucks, not 2 fronts or 2 back, I have a BB SW/1500 calf with 2 fronts with plastic wheels and no gears that I wanted to add power too but I can't
How do I know the difference?
 

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Discussion Starter #50
So here we go, 2 loco's ready to receive a 21pin decoder. I have tested them with a DC power source, and they seem to work well. I will know more when I can put them on the track and test with a more finer touch.

I am still in need of sorting out lights and sound location. Sound may be done by replacing the rear vents with some I can see thru and securing the speaker to the shell below the vents.

544679


544680
 

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Discussion Starter #51
All the parts required to power the dummy loco has been ordered. It looks like its costing $150 to make the complete conversion prior to the DCC controller and speaker.

I have thought of a plan for lighting. Thin Styren sheet above the plastic glass in the cab, and above that a LED pointing at the plastic headlight lens. That should prevent bleed-thru to the cab.

Something similar for the rear lights. Where I am going to pocket the speaker baffle and point the LED towards the rear.

It probably wont be as bright as it should. But the effect should work.

John
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Tom, are the drive shafts suppose to snap into the worm coupler???

I bought these worms, and the ball of my drive shaft just floats in it.

Athearn HO Worm Assembly, High Performance/New (1) ATH34128

They are the same part number you provided, but with a brass worm instead of a plastic. I bought some A-Line universal shafts which I cut down.

A-Line 12032 - Coupling Kit - Universal Hex Drive HO Scale

And those dont snap in as described in a youtube video. The explanation for install is to cut an 1/8 inch (.125) shorter ensuring the shaft does not bottom out in the flywheel. If the shaft snaps into the coupler, that would make sense for cutting it slightly shorter making room for when the truck turns. The 1.477 drive shafts (part number ATH90123) I bought fit about like that. With just about 1/8 inch movement. But wont snap into the coupler.

Any thoughts?

John
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Follow up...

Tom, it sure seems the Athearn shafts I bought should work and that the problem is in the worm coupler.

Do you have a different part number I should try? My other option is to buy the A-Line coupler and just replace the athearn one on my worm shaft. My intent was to keep these loco's all Athearn on the drive system. The more I go down this rabbit hole, the more I am seeing that may not be possible.

John
 

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Discussion Starter #54
OMG...
I squeezed the coupler ends together a couple times with a small set of needle nose pliers, and now the drive shaft snaps into the coupler. I have to wander how long that will last.

But now the Athearn 1.447 drive shafts should work as long as the couplers dont give out and release the drive shaft.

I will need to address this later.

John
 
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