[mwpeber]

Just now physically getting started with designing a new layout but have been thinking about it for quite some time. I've taken a bunch of the track that I have laying around and laid it out on the floor to get an idea of how it might go together. Here are a few pics. Feedback is appreciated.

The space I am working with is apx 12' x 9'6". It could be a little bit bigger, but I want the layout to be manageable.

The main line is kind of an out and back with a loop at each end. half will be elevated. Hopefully you can follow the upper line as it heads over the bridge. I would like a continuous design for the main line and I suppose this is sort of there.

I haven't figured out the required grades yet.

Also, I would like to be able to run at least 2 two trains at once and think I've achieved that.

 

[Big Ed]

Hi..... I think you have two different tracks there.
The black tie might be O and the brown tie are O/27.
I think, measure them.

At least one of your switches is for O track too.

You might have trouble running them together.

 

[mwpeber]

Yes, I do have two different types of track. My intent is to use O27 for the inner track which is where the yard is and the continuous loop is at. The outer track which circles around and goes over the bridge will be O. There will be one transition point between O and O27 just before the brown switch.

I don't have much O so I'll have to pick up some more.

 

[Big Ed]

Yes, I do have two different types of track. My intent is to use O27 for the inner track which is where the yard is and the continuous loop is at. The outer track which circles around and goes over the bridge will be O. There will be one transition point between O and O27 just before the brown switch.

I don't have much O so I'll have to pick up some more.

OK in your picture you have them all mixed up.

O/27 trains will work on the O track.
O trains on the O/27 track will create some problems.

Is your basement prone to flooding?
It looks like it gets damp.

 

[Big Ed]

Track 101 for you too,

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=2433&highlight=tubular+track

 

[mwpeber]

Yeah I know all the track is mixed up right now. I'm just trying to get a general idea of how to lay the track and what track I need to purchase. Most of the O27 track is very rusty and I don't plan to use it anyway. Of the 6 switches I have shown, only the 3 manual ones work (2 O and 1 O27). The other 3 older O27 remote switches seem to be bound up, rusty and I haven't been able to get them to work yet. I haven't put much time in to them yet either.

Anyway, I plan to pick up the missing pieces so it all fits together nicely.

As far as the basement...it flooded when they were building the house before the the sump pump was installed.

 

[Big Ed]

Yeah I know all the track is mixed up right now. I'm just trying to get a general idea of how to lay the track and what track I need to purchase. Most of the O27 track is very rusty and I don't plan to use it anyway. Of the 6 switches I have shown, only the 3 manual ones work (2 O and 1 O27). The other 3 older O27 remote switches seem to be bound up, rusty and I haven't been able to get them to work yet. I haven't put much time in to them yet either.

Anyway, I plan to pick up the missing pieces so it all fits together nicely.

As far as the basement...it flooded when they were building the house before the the sump pump was installed.

Then you should lay all the O together and O/27 together to get an ideal of what more you need?

Do something I did not do, paint the walls before you build the layout.
If you plan on painting, I wish I had done that first.hwell:

You can clean the rust some, did you look at the track 101 link? There is more info on the this site about cleaning/tweaking track.
Don't use steel wool or sandpaper to clean.

Some leave the rust on the rail. The top and where the pins go should be clean and shiny.
I had a friend who rusted his track on purpose, if you look at real track it is rusted.
Did not look bad either, but you do need the tops clean to run the trains.

 

[mwpeber]

I hadn't thought about using the rusty O27 track. I might be able to make that work.

I want the O scale track on the outer loop so I can use much more gradual curves.

That's a great video. So just need scotch brite pad, cloth, and WD40.

 

[Big Ed]

I hadn't thought about using the rusty O27 track. I might be able to make that work.

I want the O scale track on the outer loop so I can use much more gradual curves.

That's a great video. So just need scotch brite pad, cloth, and WD40.

Try it a lot of rusty track and switches can be cleaned up nicely.

Yes he greased the tops and let the track sit out in the rain for a while to get that real look.
Afterwards he cleaned the grease off and cleaned the tops real good and built his layout. Afterwards he painted the center rail a flat black to try to hide the rail some.
Thinking back I think he weathered his switches as you don't want them out it the rain.
I wish I had a digital camera back then.

 

[gunrunnerjohn]

I'd suggest a track layout program, makes the what-if stage go much smoother! I use AnyRail, but there are many others.

Rusty track? I have a bunch of it, cleaning it slowly.

 

[mwpeber]

AnyRail has a free version and a $59 version that says for "unlimited size". i assume the free version has a limited size but I cannot find it stated anywhere. Do you know what that limited size is?

 

[gunrunnerjohn]

Yep, 50 pieces of track.

 

[mwpeber]

I'll give the track software a try and keep you posted on progress. I tried designing the layout using my SolidWorks software but that proved to be slow and painful so I aborted.

 

[mwpeber]

I decided to jump into putting up some benchwork. The track layout I'm working with is similar to what is on the ground. I started to design it using AnyRail but find it hard to get the inclines working right. I'll post what my plan is soon.

 

[mwpeber]

I've worked a bit more this evening.

I finished the leg supports and laid the OSB. I was going to use 1/2" plywood for the surface but couldn't bring myself to spend $20 a sheet. I ended up with 1/2" OSB for about $8 a sheet.

 

[tjcruiser]

MW,

Your benchwork looks great. Nice framing work ... light, strong, rigid. Those aren't just shims along the back wall, are they? Cleats for mounting something ... ???

Cheers,

TJ

 

[mwpeber]

They are attached to the 2x4 frame and will be used to attach 1/8" hardboard for a backdrop.

I also intend on attaching a 12" fascia or "skirt" that will wrap around the whole front surface.

 

[mwpeber]

Transformers

A switch to transformers. I have a collection of older transformers that I have inherited over the years and am trying to determine if they will work for my model railroad, or if I need to upgrade to something newer or more powerful. Here is a pic of the collection:

1)

2)

3)

4)

5)

 

[gunrunnerjohn]

Well, the 1033 is a decent little transformer, and the AF one looks OK, what's the wattage on that one? The others appear to be well suited for running accessories, which is what I normally keep small transformers around for.

For conventional operation, you'll need two transformers, or a dual-control transformer. I'd start with what you have and see if you feel the need to upgrade.

 

[mwpeber]

Well, the 1033 is a decent little transformer, and the AF one looks OK, what's the wattage on that one? The others appear to be well suited for running accessories, which is what I normally keep small transformers around for.

For conventional operation, you'll need two transformers, or a dual-control transformer. I'd start with what you have and see if you feel the need to upgrade.

The AF is 100W output with a 7-16V and 16V output.

I'm not too well schooled with the transformers...what is the purpose / function of a "dual-control" transformer (I assume like the 1033).

Thanks.