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New To N Scale

363 Views 17 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  jackpresley
I grew up on HO, but haven't had a train set since I was about 14. During the pandemic, I felt compelled to revisit model trains, something I've always loved.

Getting way out over my skis, I decided to embark on creating a layout joining Woodland Scenic's Grand Valley and River Pass layouts. After discovering I couldn't run the larger/longer locomotives/cars on the layout, I decided to go with N scale, which I'm surprisingly excited about after purchasing my first Kato N Scale Set.

Taking my unfounded ambitions a step further, I've decided to run double track around the layout as much as possible. I'd like to have a double turnout and thought I could chop-up a 15 degree crossover enough to get there, but it's not happening (see pic). I'm hoping I'm missing something - is there a better way?

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Are you using any track planning software?

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Your curve is kinked where it joins the inside track. Straighten that kink, and then you will need to shorten the inside straight section a bit, and then they should mate up squarely.
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Are you using any track planning software?

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No, but I'm open to any suggestions.
Your curve is kinked where it joins the inside track. Straighten that kink, and then you will need to shorten the inside straight section a bit, and then they should mate up squarely.
The current state was achieved with a lot of cutting and refining, and while I can get the pieces to join, I doubt a train will run over smoothly. If I attempt again with a new piece of 15 degree crossover to whittle down, I might be able to make it work on the third or forth attempt with a new piece of 15 degree each time. I've also had to cut the turnouts themselves to the point I don't know if I'll be able to get power connections on the turnout.

I'm guessing there's a way to make this work with 15 degree crossover, again, after multiple attempts, just hoping there's a better/easier way than this trial and error.
I liked AnyRail. You can use the free demo version which will allow you to use up to 50 individual pieces of track.

What is the part number for the crossing piece in the middle of the intersection? Is it a 20-300 or a 20-301? Those pieces can be tricky if you're using one, but really need the other. It always confuses me which one you would need... I believe you need the "crossing - right" and not the "crossing left" piece, but again... it's confusing.

If I wasn't so swamped, I'd see if I could design it in AnyRail for you.
However you fix this, that kink is not gonna fly. You need to straighten that or you will always have problems there.

And Jeff is on to something there. I too think you need the other crossing. The two look very much alike, but are not the same.
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Try anyrail. Instead of cutting up pieces, get done adjustable length pieces to get the length you need.

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Kato seems really good at designing pieces to keep the geometry perfect for double track layouts. What is lacking, is a good source that explains what pieces can/should be used to accomplish certain goals.

Also, I found this old Kato product... Notice how the outside turnout startes later than the inside turnout? I presume that is so the diverging tracks emerge at the same point. So, staggered at the entrance so they are flush at the exit.

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It also keeps the radius constant.
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Exactly... If you tried to start the turnout at the same point, then the radius needs to increase to keep things parallel. But if you start the outside curve later, they can be the same radius.

You might be able to accomplish this by using a #4 on the inside and a #6 on the outside. But I think the difference in radius on the diverging tracks are too far apart for that to work.

The #4 turnout diverges 15 degrees into a 19" radius curve, while the #6 turnout diverges at 15%, but on a 19.25" radius. So I don't think the geometry would be 100% perfect for double-track spacing.
Kato seems really good at designing pieces to keep the geometry perfect for double track layouts. What is lacking, is a good source that explains what pieces can/should be used to accomplish certain goals.

Also, I found this old Kato product... Notice how the outside turnout startes later than the inside turnout? I presume that is so the diverging tracks emerge at the same point. So, staggered at the entrance so they are flush at the exit.

View attachment 604843
Thanks Jeff - this is a great point - I need to start the outside turnout later than the inside. Also, once staggered, I shouldn't have to cut down the turnouts as they won't be side-by-side.

I'll give Anyrail a try as well - it sounds like it could help provide direction on how much the crossover needs to be cut down. To note, I've probably cut about 3/4 of an inch from each of the four ends of track to get to where it is now.
Thanks Jeff - this is a great point - I need to start the outside turnout later than the inside. Also, once staggered, I shouldn't have to cut down the turnouts as they won't be side-by-side.

I'll give Anyrail a try as well - it sounds like it could help provide direction on how much the crossover needs to be cut down. To note, I've probably cut about 3/4 of an inch from each of the four ends of track to get to where it is now.
I'd advise you stop cutting track. Use anyrail and figure out what you need to fit correctly. Cutting unitrack will lead to problems.

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I'd advise you stop cutting track. Use anyrail and figure out what you need to fit correctly. Cutting unitrack will lead to problems.

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Without being cut, the 15 degree crossover wouldn't come close to fitting.


From what I've seen, Kato doesn't make unitrack for a double turnout - there is not an example in any in the attached. This piece is an X15R (right) crossover.

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I also came across this in regards to Kato's #4 turnout geometry

Thanks Jeff - similar to what's included in the PDF. I'm ballparking, but it seems like you could do a double-turnout with standard pieces, provided the gap between double track is widened.
I think what I'm getting at is instead of guessing and cutting up pieces.... start with anyrail and use that to determine what you need to cut first, if any. Adjust your lengths to get the geometry or use an adaptor to use a section of flex track.

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The geometry of Kato double track is 33mm on center spacing. You can't make this work and stay at that spacing throughout without modifying both the turnout and the 12.5* crossing. You want to use the more reliable #6 turnouts, so the track needs to be 49.5mm on center going into these turnouts. Then use a 481 and 718 radii curves to close the gap back down to ~38mm. There will be about an 80mm gap from the 481 curve to your next double track piece. Put an extensible 78-105mm piece here and it flexes enough to connect reliably.

The through track can be widened and brought back to 33mm on center with a wiggle of the 249mm radius curves and liberal use of the extensible track.


FWIW, I gave up on double track for these problems. It was easier to widen the track coming out of a curve to get the geometric spacing correct -- which meant long stretches of track that was not 33mm on center. Love the look of the super elevated double track curves -- just know the limitations on down the line.
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