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The lever turns the drum i would clean drum hole good make sure not to much pressure with the fingers . and flyernut and mopac know moore . ask them
 

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The lever in the picture is in the normal operation position. When moved to the right it engages the tab on the pawl to stop it from moving, locking the reversing unit into a single position. It is normally used to keep the engine in forward.
 

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I do not see anything obviously wrong except for the possible presence of corrosion. If the pawl is not moving freely up and down or if the drum is not rotating freely the unit will need to be disassembled and cleaned. Flyernut has posted detailed step by step instructions of how he does this.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks all.

It did work intermittently before I replaced the fingers and the wiring loom. I hitched everything up and placed locomotive and tender on a short section of track turned on the power and it shot off the track, since then not much but I know I'm getting power. I have loosened the finger boards and moved them around a bit to see if I can get reliable operation. It may be just a binding problem. Should I lubricate the step gear and operating hardware?

I'm pretty sure the locomotive is ok, I replaced the suspect brushes.

Will the tenders drive function properly without the locomotive plugged in?
 

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Thanks all.

It did work intermittently before I replaced the fingers and the wiring loom. I hitched everything up and placed locomotive and tender on a short section of track turned on the power and it shot off the track, since then not much but I know I'm getting power. I have loosened the finger boards and moved them around a bit to see if I can get reliable operation. It may be just a binding problem. Should I lubricate the step gear and operating hardware?

I'm pretty sure the locomotive is ok, I replaced the suspect brushes.

Will the tenders drive function properly without the locomotive plugged in?
To answer your last question, YES. The loco does not need the tender to run.To make the loco run without tender, you have to jump the 2nd and 3rd hole...Base post to 1st hole on female jack panel...7 to 15 volts post to 4th hole....wire from 2nd hole to 3rd hole.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
To answer your last question, YES. The loco does not need the tender to run.To make the loco run without tender, you have to jump the 2nd and 3rd hole...Base post to 1st hole on female jack panel...7 to 15 volts post to 4th hole....wire from 2nd hole to 3rd hole.
Thanks, test situation only, right? These locos don't pick up power from the track. Would need some sort of on-board power supply to run on the track?

Wouldn't just applying power across the brushes do the same thing to test?

Thanks
 

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Flyernuts instructions are how to have the engine run with the tender but bypassing the reverse unit. If you apply power just across the brushes it will only overheat and eventually cause the armature to fail. That is because it is a series wound motor (armature and field are in series) so connecting power to just the brushes bypasses the field. If you want to bench test the motor it is best to make a custom plug wired per Flyernuts instructions.
 

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Or was your questions can the tender function, i.e., be tested without the loco? The answer is yes. The reverse unit will cycle just fine with no loco and with test leads connected to the truck wires, or sitting on a test track with power applied to the track. Base post to one rail and 7-15 V to the other rail. Just unplug the loco and make sure the plug pins don't short to each other.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks again.

As I recall I did make that test plug when I first started investigating this locomotive, and it worked very well. I only momentarily apply power across the brushes to see if my fix to the loco is working.

I am having a hard time getting my head around that reversing lever. Seems incredible that to reverse the locomotive you would have to lift the tender off the track and move that lever to get it to reverse, or am I missing something? I guess the AC version eliminated that option?

Right now I'm only getting a buzz out of the solenoid locking the pawl in the upward direction. Seems like there should be an adjustment somewhere. I just want to get this locomotive operating properly.
 

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I will try to explain that lever on bottom of tender. Consider it a lock out lever. When in one position, the reverse unit goes through its normal cycle of
FORWARD-NEUTRAL-REVERSE-NEUTRAL. When lever is moved to other position the
reverse unit is locked out of going through the cycles. It is used if you want loco to only
run in FORWARD or REVERSE. I do not remember which position lever should be in to
do normal cycle. Try different position to test engine. I am guessing your no run problem is either the reverse lever position or your fingers do not have good contact with drum. The first time I changed fingers and had all back together my train did not run. flyernut then told me to bend fingers down some to have better contact with drum.
I did not bend fingers down some when I first installed new fingers. If you did not bend fingers down some, that could be your problem. Without bending the fingers, they
may not have good contact. Let us know. You will get it running.
 

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Take the shell off and watch the drum when applying power on and off. It should be moving. If it isn't spray down the e-unit with CRC contact cleaner, the non-flammable kind.See if that helps. Like MOPAC said make sure the fingers are bent down some before install.The lever on the bottom of the tender is indeed a lock-out.If you move it towards the center of the tender, it will lock the e-unit either forward or reverse. If you move the lever towards the outside of the tender, then it is in the normal, run position, and you will be able to cycle through the normal, cycling procedure.
 
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