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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
NS Custom Painted SD40-2

I am starting on a Ns custom Paint. I am starting with an older used atheran CP Rail SD40-2 that I got for $20 at Robbies Hobbies That runs exelently and is extreamly quiet. I need Ideas on how to connvert it and what modifications I can Easily do to make it look good.
Thanks!
Ntrainlover
 

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Wish I could help with your questions, but I do look forward to seeing your progress. I've alwys dug the NS locos, they kinda look classy to me :laugh: Used to see them a lot around here... but now they're gone :( I DID happen to see one just this past week which was kinda surprising.

Kinda cool- I go down Hwy90 going to and from work. It parallels one of our busiest line in this area, leads to Englewood :D I get lucky pretty often, seeing the trains come and go. The KCS always impresses- they're always so clean. Anybody know their cleaning schedule- like after every run?!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well so Far I have the mess of glue someone left behind cleaned up, I have the front Anticlimber sanded off and ready for the new one. I have bought the decals for it from Hobbyland. They are Microscale decals. I am using engine black paint. I have have got all of the old grabirons and mold cuts sanded off. Now I just Have to buy the details, Anticlimber, santions, Ditch Lights, Grabirons and I will be all set. Do you thing I can put onb decals after the floquil paint is dry of do you think I need somekind of a finish. Also How do you work decals into crevises any ideas?
Thanks!
:D:p:thumbsup:
 

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Wothless whitout pictures my friend !

For the decals... use Microset then Microsol (which is a solvent that melt the decal)... available in most model hobby shop. Your paint must be glossy though, put a flat base after the decals if you want to but if you put decals on a flat surface, you'll have a "silvery" (ugly) finish on them because of the air trap underneat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I will have to try and find the camra.
I am using poly scale model railroad paint. does that have enough of a gloss for decals or do I need to get some Micro gloss, micro set, and micro sol.
I know when I am done I am going to be hitting it with dullcote. How do you apply micr sol? wont you still have to work the decals into the cracks between doors though?
Thanks!
 

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Sorry, I'm new in railroad modeling... had a 30 years background in cars, tanks and planes modeling though... so I don't have any clue on the glossiness of Poly scale paint. I'm used to almost all kind of paint and let me say that if your finish is like a brand new car, then you are OK and should go on with the decals. If not, maybe it can be polish but be very careful with all the little details in the Loco. Personnaly, my finishes are always way better than a showroom car before applying any decals.:thumbsup:

I never used Micro Gloss... even if I have it laying around somewhere. I sometime use Future (floor polish) on models though; but most of the time, a good airbrush job is all I need (layers are done in 2 separate pass... one stick, on wet). For the Micro Sol, I put it with a simple gentle brush, the same brush is used to "drive" the decals in the "ditch", "hole", "panel line", "edge"... well almost anywhere.:laugh::laugh:

It's fun and quite easy... I'll do it on my brand new Conrail to convert it to CN no: 5934 next spring:rolleyes:... winter is comming fast and the paint boot is now closed till spring !
 

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What brand... need info.

Aztec... change the tip, it's worn out !

Badger... is the needle is bend ? If so, you must have more than a problem shooting with it.

Iwata... must be the paint !

Can you picture the problem ?

Can it be the paint ? Some paint have a very agressive thinner (even melting plastic airbrush) that can cause this. My Tamiya paint (the TS serie) have this kind of agressive thinner in it and when out of the can (yes, I empty cans to shoot the paint with an Airbrush... a control issue), it can take 2 to 3 hours just to get stable enough. Always wear a NIOSH mask with those !

In any case... keep a clean towel to wipe the nose of the Airbrush when you have to.

Feed me in info... I'll try to help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, It is an older Blue Point Airbrush, It could because I am using a propel can. But it has been very hard to clean. It could be bunched up paint somewhere.
Thanks for the Idvice, PS I have some pics I have to put up.
 

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Well, cans are a way to work... but maybe the lamest :thumbsdown: !! Even a good tire is better than a can ! This can be your problem... some cans use a propellant which can react with you paint and cause this bubbling thing. Plus, it stinks ! Get out there and find yourself a simple compressor... it don't have to be those fancy quiet one... well, except if you're in an appartment.

It could be dryed paint too... diassemble the airbrush, get some air brush cleaner (thinner) and get that Blue Point (never heard of it) clean.

And... bring those pics on, so I can see that hood.:rolleyes:

Mart
 

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Good ??? Museum quality always sound great to me.:appl:

I already have my pack for a CN conversion on a SD40-2 (#5934)... will be doing it next spring.

Ps: I'll probably have a GP50 as a hi-nose engine... love the way they look. Probably another one to convert to CN standards.
 

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I thought we were talking about an NS SD40-2. That's what I interppret this thread as being. If it is not, I apologize. I just tought it was nice that someone was doing an engine that I customized 20+ years ago.

J.C.
 
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