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Discussion Starter #1
I finally caved and bought a loop of Kato track. I've put it down next to my micro eng track which remains on cork less ballast, tacked down with little brad nails into foam... (which are through ties every 6 inches or so through holes I drilled using my Dremel)

And the reason I got the Kato is because stubbornly I don't want to glue that me track even though what I just described above doesn't really work. Because the brads eventually loosen... And the track floats up... The whole thing is a big fat failure.

Except for one thing, it's quiet when something runs on it. I mean the track and wheels together produce a quite low sound.

So I got the Kato ...as it's the best plastic track and I didn't have to worry about much of that. And it is certainly nice in many ways as far as these things go.

Yet it's obviously noisy in comparison to what I just described above.

I tried putting it atop the cork and this helps ... But it's a very minor improvement.

Alas...I hate being wrong. I'm either going to have to glue or find some other way to more firmly hold that micro eng track down...
 

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Elmer's white glue used VERY SPARINGLY, just a dab here and there, will
hold your tracks in place.

Don
 

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A very thin layer of caulk will hold it to the foam. Use your stash of soup cans to hold it down for a day.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I measured a 10 db drop from bachmann gray track vs ME awhile back. It's noticable to me. I am hoping the Kato is a little better. I didn't measure it yet though. I haven't even put power to it. I just rolled some cars around it and compared it with my ear to the ME. It's definitely got a high frequency thing going on besides being noticably louder.... yet perhaps not quite so bad as the bachmann.

And so I think if it was solid plastic...

But again I tried on the bachmann stuffing Play-Doh into it... But this seemed to make little difference.

And such an idea, some other material maybe is a wonderful pain to expand to all the layout.

I mean it's far easier just to deal with quieter track like the ME even though that involves cutting, filing, soldering, bending, smoothing... All that -- than stuffing Play-Doh into track sections... Or foam or carpet...

Maybe cork but these are the cork strips so I'm just placing them under. I did a quick experiment and may have made a slight difference but I wasn't trying hard ...
 

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I have Unitrack on wood and I don't find it noisy. If I listen closely I can hear the click as it runs over the joiners but I would not call it noisy. Just my experience.
 

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I'm also a Unitrack user (HO).

I don't find it overly noisy (it's laid directly on 1/4" birch plywood).

Nor do I find that it needs to be "fastened down". Once assembled, it doesn't really "move around much".

I have power supplied through the "UniJoiners", and holes drilled underneath the track through which I route power feeds and switch motor leads. These alone seem to keep the track from "wandering around".

Works for me.
 

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Trains are noisy!...Every stand beside one as it's running? I'd guess your HO trains are about 1/87 as noisy as a real one. :D
 

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I guess I'm afraid of commitment...
Adhesive, used sparingly, is not particularly difficult to remove. And it keeps your track from moving on you, which is a huge advantage, far outweighing the minor inconvenience of removing adhesive.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well to be fair I have all these from Elmer's to rubbery cement. And various caulks and what not.
 

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I'm also a Unitrack user (HO).

I don't find it overly noisy (it's laid directly on 1/4" birch plywood).

Nor do I find that it needs to be "fastened down". Once assembled, it doesn't really "move around much".

I have power supplied through the "UniJoiners", and holes drilled underneath the track through which I route power feeds and switch motor leads. These alone seem to keep the track from "wandering around".

Works for me.
Question. My Unitrack is on a 17' long switching layout on a shelf with manual turnouts and is powered by one feeder track. I have been looking into ways to add a loop. How large is your layout and how much distance between feeder tracks do you need.?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It's rectangular but with a hole in the middle the size of a folding table. Overall it's around 10' wide by probably 12' plus long. However I have the room to run the length of another wall which is about 25'. I've just kept it as a loop to keep it simple for now. But I've been thinking of reconfiguring it. Essentially a large square u shaped dog bone against one end of room is possible. That's how I had my o layout although if I did this with ho it'd be a little more compact.
 

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My question was about how many and how far apart in the Kato loop do you need the Kato Feeder track. I'm running a 17' shelf layout with one feeder and if I want to add a loop I want to know if I need more feeders. Since you and JAlbert are running Kato loops I'm hoping you can advise me. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
nothing like that yet. i just have one loop with some alligator clips to a small power supply. it's just for experimenting. the kato is simply next to it (well on the inside) and i haven't provided power yet to it. the easiest thing for me would be another transformer.

normally i'd run DCC++ which has 2 power outputs and wire the loops separately again.

this works good enough for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
when i was running my o-gauge stuff with fastrack, i found that if i just jumped under the track to another track section around problem spots, that this worked good enough with something over 100 ft or more track. then again, i didn't have a big user base (me)... but it made for a lot less work than running wires all over the place.

i would guess with the kato i could do something similar if i wanted although they don't provide anything built into the track for this (unlike fastrack which has some little tabs) -- but it does expose the track at least in the HO variety on the bottom.

well that can be done with any track it just depends on if you care to see the wires or can bury it a little under some ballast or something like that.

it'd be fiddly, well it is what it is with HO as its small.
 
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