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Discussion Starter #1
1. I have bought a boat load of Code 100 track. I plan on making a 4x8 modular setup similar to this:



Now here come the questions.

What is the point of having spurs if you're not using DCC? After it gets past the insulators the track is dead and the train won't move anymore right?

With these spurs do you have to have a seperate controller hooked to them to control the train if it's not dcc?

I have atlas and life like track, plus my old tyco track from when I was a kid. some of it is brass (switches and some flex track) but most of it appears nickle/silver. Aside from aesthetics is there any compatibility problems you can see from mixing the 2?

Can I not use cork under the track since this is not going to be a permanent thing?

Just an FYI, I don't plan on using any scenery, this is just going to be 2 4x4 pieces of plywood with tracks for now until I can find a house and movce out of this condo.
 

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Spur

The spur is nice for storing an extra engine. It can be insulated from the main line and connected to the transformer with a toggle and separate feed.So with power on, you drive the engine in and shut the toggle and power up a second spur and run that.

In your case you have a spur and use a section of the inner loop as a siding, isolated the same way.

If it will help read up on the O27 manual. It has some wiring techniques for layouts. Basicallly you want to block your layout.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
IF I do not want them I can also eliminate the spurs as well correct?
 

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You are the master engineer.
You build a mountain.
add another curve.
The point of a spur is to have a connection with industry to service.

Looking at the layout the spur breaks up the loops, a mountain would hid it.
The sidings are nice because you can have more than one train in the track.
Basically you have loops. To design a nice siding elongate the switich connections, add a few curves and a siding is located between the two loops.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok.

Now the plans call for several manual switches. Would that be because they will remain the way they are and not need to be switched?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I realize they will be hand throws but is that because the possibility of actually switching them is that it will not happen frequently or should I install remote ones anyway just in case?
 

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LOL Tank, I am not that talented.
ermm, you will have to be talented enough to install some kind of swtch machine, right? i have nothing against tortoises really, its just cost per switch is just way to high. if i find good deal on used stuff i'll definetly consider tortoises but over 10$ per switch seems excessive and installing "2$ per switch" servos is not that much morework. and one can easily actuate couple of switches (ie crossover). circuitry, yes, it will be more compllicated to control.

anywho, not sure if you reading Model Railroad Hobyist (the free online magazine) but Q3 2009 issue had article on just that with examples and it seemed quite doable. take a look at it (located in www.google.com :rolleyes:)
if you can't find it i guess i could email you the PDF. 13Mb can't be attached here

EDIT: here is your link
http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/home/MRH_Frontpage
 

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I dont know your budget or desires but I feel I need to throw this out. Peco makes a switch that will isolate the siding when it is not the one you are using at that time. I believe it is called "insulfrog" but not sure. check at local hobby shop. It costs a little more than Atlas but is a far better quality. Also if you are going to have manual switches it needs no additional parts to do the job. Also I have a suggestion paragraph or two I saved to give to newcommers to the hobby, so if you don't mind.

Welcome to the hobby that can be as big or small, High tech or low tech as you want it to be. I have been in this hobby for 50 years + -. But I have been a serious modeler for last 15 years, my sons grew up and left. Then they came back later. In my opinion get a 4x8 sheet of plywood first, build a small simple layout with sectional track. not too much on scenery but do some to learn from it. run it for a while. After about 6 months of running tear it apart removing everything and start over making the changes and improvements you have discovered. run it for a while, and do it again. By doing this you will learn what you like and don't like inexpensively and without wasting a lot of what no one has enough of, time. This way when you decide to build a layout you will have some experience and already made many of the mistakes beginners make knowing you are not keeping it.
back to track. I use all flextrack with a few, very few exceptions. I use code 100 but if I were starting over I would use code 83. also get Peco switches / turnouts. I am slowly replacing all of mine (Atlas) with Peco. Much better quality, little more money but well worth it.Enough for now feel free to PM me any time. Oh yeah find someone who is in the hobby and ask questions and ask for help.I think you will find that most MRRers are good guys.
Les

Now I will add to this something I recently learned. Make all of you isles as wide as possible. Avoid duckunders at all cost. The reason for this is all of us including you are getting older. Health becomes an issue. 2 years ago I had a stroke leaving me disabled. When this first happened I used a wheel chair for a while then a walker, on to crutches and now a cane. My Isles are 24 inch minimum. That is a little tight for me now. Thankfully I don't have a duckunder or I would still be outside looking in. I do have a lift out section. It is made of steel which is good as I have tried unsuccessfully to destroy it in the last 2 years. Well that is my for what its worth

I hope this helps you
 

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Wow, Lester Perry, that sounds like great advice...and well worded too. I may have to check out Peco switches as I get more serious with my layout. I've noticed problems with even my newest Atlas switches.
 
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