Older trains on newer tracks
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The code of track tells you what it is made of like brass, steel, or nikel plate silver. the track gauge does not change. so yes your 1970's train will run on any track currently available. I use several trains from that age on standard track by Bachmann which is code 83 track which is .083 high while code 100 is .100 with 83 beeing more prototypical and 100 not so much. I don't think any one makes code 100 integrated track but you will have no problems running your train on 83 track so shouldn't be a problem. 
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I respectfully offer a correction...
Track code refers to the height of the rail in thousandths of an inch, i.e. code 100 = .100" high, code 83 = .083" high and so on. The material with which the rail is made of has nothing to do with the number. Bachmann and Life-Like both offer their track in code 100 nickle silver on integrated roadbeds.
As for '70s motive power, Rivarossi started changing over to .039" flanges in the mid-70s to be better able to run on code 83 and code 70 rail at the time. It was still a bit deep and really depended on the spikes used as to whether it would work or not. You're just going to have to play it by ear as you go---or turn down the wheels on a lathe like we did in the olden daze...
One of the reasons I use code 100 rail is so that I can run anything made, including the really deep flanged older European models. While C100 scales out rather large, there was a stretch of rail the Pennsylvania used that would've scaled out that high, thus forever justifying my use of it on my layout
Track code refers to the height of the rail in thousandths of an inch, i.e. code 100 = .100" high, code 83 = .083" high and so on. The material with which the rail is made of has nothing to do with the number. Bachmann and Life-Like both offer their track in code 100 nickle silver on integrated roadbeds.
As for '70s motive power, Rivarossi started changing over to .039" flanges in the mid-70s to be better able to run on code 83 and code 70 rail at the time. It was still a bit deep and really depended on the spikes used as to whether it would work or not. You're just going to have to play it by ear as you go---or turn down the wheels on a lathe like we did in the olden daze...
One of the reasons I use code 100 rail is so that I can run anything made, including the really deep flanged older European models. While C100 scales out rather large, there was a stretch of rail the Pennsylvania used that would've scaled out that high, thus forever justifying my use of it on my layout
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Hear, hear, shaygetz, the EXACT reason I still use Code 100. With the number of older engines I've seemed to have gathered over the years(read old Mantua, etc.), Code 100 allows me to keep running these old engines............
Besides, Code 100 is a tad cheaper and still has the greatest supply of ALL types of oddball switches, etc.
Bob
Besides, Code 100 is a tad cheaper and still has the greatest supply of ALL types of oddball switches, etc.
Bob
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right i said that the code was the track hieght, I have found at least with bachmann the 83 is a better grade than the 100 maybe the track i got as one is a brass color 83 and the 100 is silver who knows i might just have the two different types of 83 but i could have sworn the black was code 100.
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:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
Couldja imagine runnin' these tie hoppers on code 83? Woo Hoo....
Jeouff RPO...
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An honest mistake...:thumbsup:
We olden modelers has seen 'em come 'en go...but that old brass code one hunnert refuses to die...anybody remember fiber ties?
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I have an early 1979 AMH steamer and a mid 1970 AMH Pennsylvania diesel. Both have large flanges and have issues with anything less than code 100 when it comes to switches. I have code 100 switches that needed the frogs slightly filed to allow the flanges to pass without hopping.
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Making the Switch....but that Hunnert Brass!
My son talked me into changing our old hodge podge of code 100 track to Atlas code 83 (brown ties) for more realistic effect. So far all of our Diesel and Steam Loco's are staying on the track and using 22' radius is the way to go especially on the non articulated steamers. But hey...what about all that code Hunnert brass?.....it cleans up well and will be in use on another separate section of our layout. Miles and Miles of this stuff and ya just can't beat it!:thumbsup:
My son talked me into changing our old hodge podge of code 100 track to Atlas code 83 (brown ties) for more realistic effect. So far all of our Diesel and Steam Loco's are staying on the track and using 22' radius is the way to go especially on the non articulated steamers. But hey...what about all that code Hunnert brass?.....it cleans up well and will be in use on another separate section of our layout. Miles and Miles of this stuff and ya just can't beat it!:thumbsup:
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I wish I could tell you...it came in a box full of battered HO buildings. I cobbled it together using bits from my junk box. It was missing a steeple top, the awning was added, not original and the fan in the window was carefully removed from an old Revell casting, used on their bakery. I liked its final look, having wanted to preach from a similar church for many years.
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