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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Once the boiler has been stripped, sanded, buffed, and primed, do you wipe it down between coats of finish with anything to remove and fingerprints/oils?
 

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I'll offer a general painting response ... not one specific to any experience on my end working with loco repaints ...

If you're using an oil-based paint/primer, a light wipe with denatured alcohol (available at any hardware store) via a soft cloth (lint free, if possible) does a great job of removing any surface oils. It evaporates very quickly, too.

If you're using latex-based paint/primer (I'd be surprised if you were), stay away from the denatured alcohol ... it'll actually remove some of the finish. Best here to used some lightly moist (with water) cloth, only ... maybe just the smallest drop of liquid soap, but wipe down with water-only cloth after that.

But, again, see what the loco-repaint pros say ...

TJ
 

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Once the boiler has been stripped, sanded, buffed, and primed, do you wipe it down between coats of finish with anything to remove and fingerprints/oils?
I hang it from a wire. Any oops should be sanded. It is prefered to get everthing looking good, before applying color. I only do two coats if I missed something and I see gray.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Let's say you're, "Brain-Dead" like me, and took it down off the hanger to check it. And, "But of course", you weren't wearing gloves, what do you do?
 

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Be nice....you're gonna get those engines running and then they'll be the love of your life!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
T-Man, I have at least 6 projects that are in various stages.

Restoring 1110-got the motor, all linkage and in process of painting broiler & Tender

Restoring 2-2026's(3 parts locomotives)-rebuilt the e-units (3!), cleaned up and buffed linkage, painted 2 of 3 broilers, waiting for some smoke unit parts.

Have a 208 that I stripped, chassis also needs stripping(minor rust/battery damage) need to rebuild the e-unit and horn relay(have 5 for parts) The painting will wait till I either find a source for the nose decal/make one/ or decide to go with some other 200 series alco designation. I gave up trying to work with those metal replacement aprons. I found some plastic replacements and they should be here by Wed.

The 226 is doing fine. I think that I wired the battery wrong, so it's still listed as a project.

Then of course, there are the "S", 302AC & 290 that have me beating my head against the wall:laugh::laugh:
 

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Then it's simple. Don't touch the paint.:D

I looked at the S gage track and making that fit into O track is not an easy task. THe S would have to be dead on. The curves I have in S are greater than 31 inches. I doubt I will try to do this without the right curves.
 
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