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I was given my grandfathers train set. It came with the 1666 engine and cars shown, a 1042 transformer, and 2 pieces of I believe to be o27 track. I am wondering what I need to just get it running. I found a LIONEL 6019-17 '0' Gauge Remote Control Track Section on eBay. Is that what I need to connect the transformer to more track sections? Any suggestions or resources you could point me toward are appreciated. Thanks!
 

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· Hobo for Life
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You have a nice prewar 1666. You need track and a lock on. I would oil up the axels and maybe clean out the commuter plate on the 1666. It probably hasnt been ran in a while. It would also be good to test your transformer. Plug it in and with a volt meter or test bulb see if it works. Shoot some pictures of the underside of the engine and the tender. The tender should be a whistle tender.
 

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This is a lock on.
 

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And track you have is 027, so its diffrent then 0 guage tubular, its closer to the ground. The train can run on eaither. Depending on what you want to get. The 0 is a bit sturdier and has better switches if you ever want to add them.
 

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I was given my grandfathers train set. It came with the 1666 engine and cars shown, a 1042 transformer, and 2 pieces of I believe to be o27 track. I am wondering what I need to just get it running. I found a LIONEL 6019-17 '0' Gauge Remote Control Track Section on eBay. Is that what I need to connect the transformer to more track sections? Any suggestions or resources you could point me toward are appreciated. Thanks!
Wow, you inherited (and apparently your grandfather accumulated) a real mixed bag of toy train stuff!

First, the engine is a Marx 1666, a very solid performer that should give you good performance for many years, and is fairly easily serviced and repaired if you do encounter problems. Though I run mostly Marx rolling stock, I can't help you with the precise identification of the rest of the rolling stock, but it seems to be relatively early tin lithograph Marx, with one of the several funky couplers they used over the years. The good news is that you appear to have a full train of compatible coupler cars -- the bad news is that it may be difficult to find additional cars with compatible couplers, but the tab and slot connector on the 1666 is pretty much universal, so if you invest in another tender you can add cars with virtually any type coupler. But that's an issue for another day -- you just want to get running, right?

It does appear the two sections of track you have are likely O-27, though the "27" really refers to the diameter of a circle of curved track and is irrelevant to straight track, except to distinguish it from the taller rails of O gauge track. Just about any hobby shop has boxes of used O-27 track that they'll sell you for 50 cents per section or less, and some can be in pretty good shape, or you can get new sections for about 2 bucks each. If you go used, try to pick out sections with minimal rust and no evident damage, and be sure the pins are straight and reasonably corrosion-free. Old track can usually be reconditioned, but for your first effort it's best to start with reasonably reliable track.

To connect the track to your transformer, you'll need what is referred to as a lock-on, a simple board with connectors that, yes, locks on under the track to make electrical connections easily available. Here's a pic:
Font Electronic device Metal Electronics accessory Electric blue

Most hobby shops that would have the track would likely have a few lock-ons on hand as well, and might throw one in for free, or for a few bucks at most. Two wires between the lock-on and your transformer terminals, and you should be good to go. I'm not sure what the "Remote Control Track Section" you mentioned does, but it's definitely not necessary and probably doesn't serve as a power connection.

Where are you located? I'm in central Maryland, and if you're close enough to pick it up, I'd be glad to donate enough track (and a lock-on!) to get you started (or if you're willing to pay the shipping (could be $15-20 or more, since it's fairly heavy stuff!), I could pack and ship it to you. OTOH, it might be cheaper to just shop your local hobby shop).

Oh, and the transformer appears to be an old Lionel unit. Before you invest in a lot of other gear, you should test its output with a multimeter (the voltage across the terminals should vary between zero volts at closed throttle, to 15 to 20 volts AC at full throttle, with a smooth voltage progression across the range). If the transformer is dead or flaky in operation, you might want to add another one to your shopping list. Most hobby shops have them used for $25-50 or so, usually reconditioned or at least checked and warrantied.

Good luck, welcome to the forum, and let me know if you have any other questions!
 

· Hobo for Life
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Its a compleate lionel 1666 pre war set steve, I have the same one. Lol. The track section they were looking at was for accessories and has nothing to do with runing the train. The couplers are one of two types used back then and are indicative of early lionel tinplate. You can find them around pretty easily. And if you wanted to haul diffrent stuff around most just turn the rear of the tenders wheels around and add a reguler 0 guage coupler. Easy and only costs a few bucks. I had a few like that for marx also. Generous offer on the track. The specs for the transformer is above in post 3. 75 watts and a whistle button. So its a good transformer if it works pleanty of power.
 

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And more info on the 1666.
 

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Its a compleate lionel 1666 pre war set steve, I have the same one. Lol. The track section they were looking at was for accessories and has nothing to do with runing the train. The couplers are one of two types used back then and are indicative of early lionel tinplate. You can find them around pretty easily. And if you wanted to haul diffrent stuff around most just turn the rear of the tenders wheels around and add a reguler 0 guage coupler. Easy and only costs a few bucks. I had a few like that for marx also. Generous offer on the track. The specs for the transformer is above in post 3. 75 watts and a whistle button. So its a good transformer if it works pleanty of power.
I stand corrected -- I saw the "1666" and jumped to the (logical for a Marx fan, if wrong) conclusion it was Marx. Makes sense that it would be Lionel, paired with the Lionel transformer! :sneaky:
 

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I stand corrected -- I saw the "1666" and jumped to the (logical for a Marx fan, if wrong) conclusion it was Marx. Makes sense that it would be Lionel, paired with the Lionel transformer! :sneaky:
All good, easy to confuse the bunch. I have both , somewhere. But the one in the picture is pre war right at the end of production of the pre war I believe as its not an E but had the baldwin disks on the wheels and the elongated draw bar. Both of those features date it on the end of prewar.
 

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Yup a whistle tender. On the track with voltage and if the transformer works it will whistle. That also may need agood cleaning and lubrication. They are old , but clean and can run like new with some maintance.
 

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Having just discovered tinplate myself I hyave one comment. O27 track is not going to make you happy. The speed and the lower rails will tend to have the engine depart the track in turns. I used my O27 as I thought that was correct. It's not. I switched to O31 and found it was much more likely to stay on the track, even at faster speeds. And mine likes to run. You can tons of it on ebay. Some people sell complete ovals - 12 curves and 6, 8, or 10 straights. I got a bunch cheap (plus 2 early prewar manual O31 switches ) as it came with my 154 which looked a wreck but it's not at an auction and then I bought a "box of stuff" at a flea market for $20 that had a bunch of O gauge track and more early Lionel manual switches (which are O31) some remote switches and some Marx switches.

Know it all note : O31 was the original track type for Lionel. Ives was the O27 originator. Lionel got it when they bought Ives. Though I'm not sure if they used it right away for their low end sets or post war. Marx had O27 and O34 but their engines and cars are more like 3/16th scale (S scale) but used 3 rail track.

My #154 and 1668 torpedo will run several times faster than you think they will. The engines are not burdened by modern "improvements", are simply and durable made and will fly off your table if you are not careful. I like to run them on the O42 loop since you can get some decent speed without the fear of it going airborne.

Seek and ye shall find.

Enjoy.
Frank
 

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Having just discovered tinplate myself I have one comment. O27 track is not going to make you happy. The speed and the lower rails will tend to have the engine depart the track in turns. I used my O27 as I thought that was correct. It's not. I switched to O31 and found it was much more likely to stay on the track, even at faster speeds.
Well, yes, any curved track with a larger radius will tolerate higher speed, regardless of the type of rolling stock -- that's just physics. I'm not a big tinplate collector, but what I do have has run successfully on my almost exclusively 0-27 layout (I have a few pieces of, I believe, 0-42 track in a curve that was regularly throwing all the rolling stock off the edge!). So, as long as you have no desire to try for land speed records, 0-27 should work just fine, tinplate or no. If problems are encountered, swapping in a few pieces of longer-radius curved track at the offending points should quickly cure your ills. FYI, the OP's planned initial layout bed happens to be only 3 feet wide (so anything wider than 0-27 would be quite a squeeze to fit, if it would be possible at all), and I'll be shipping him some old 0-27 track to experiment with.
 
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