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Discussion Starter #1
This is a very small sampling of my s scale stuff, all Flyer. It's not the prettiest, most scenic, but I have fun with it. The 290 is one of the engines I rebuilt, starting with complete disassemby, sandblasting, repaint, re-stencil,etc. You get my drift.
 

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Railroad Tycoon
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Nice:thumbsup:.......you got a tree down.:D

The Plasticville sure looks better with S then it does with my O.

Are you looking to add more?
I saw someone on e bay selling a lot of Original Plasticville, new in the box, unopened.

A lot of good deals (prices) were going down.
Not too many were bidding for some reason.

He has a _hit load of them all different kinds.

I didn't bid on any as I don't like how they go with O but with the smaller S it goes great.:D

Nice rebuild too, the engine looks great.:thumbsup:
 

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Looks GREAT! Nice work! Satin black?

TJ
I used many different types of paint, but satin black is the one I prefer. I then use dulcoat to keep the rub-ons from failing, but then the satin black turns flat.WELL, my first question!!! Should I use dul-coat to protect the rub-ons?? And excuse me for my bad manners; thank you for the compliment. I'll post a few more pix of my restored 302's .
 

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Hey flyer, :)

Your engine is beautifully done!:):thumbsup:
Could you post a long shot of your whole layout?
S scale track is really cool because it's two rail.


Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Here's a few of the whole layout. It's one dimensional, but easy to change. Oh and please excuse that O gauge line with Thomas on it. That's for my grand-boys, and me when I run some of the O scale. I have a Allegheny and a big boy I like to run on occasion. You might see some trees and such down but that's because of the storm we had on the layout,lol....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Here's a few of my 302's. The one on the far right is still missing it's numbers,actually they're VERY light, but each and every one of them run like a scalded dog, smoke like the devil, and the e-units work flawlessly. I HATE sticky e-units!!! I have a few more of the 4-piece boilers but they're packed away, waiting for their day.I don't know how my wife puts up with me but bless her heart. I have two drawers full of engines in my chest of drawers in the bedroom, the closet is full on one side with sets and boxed engines, and the garage is full of my 2 antique cars.I thank the good Lord every day for sending her to me!!
 

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I used many different types of paint, but satin black is the one I prefer. I then use dulcoat to keep the rub-ons from failing, but then the satin black turns flat.WELL, my first question!!! Should I use dul-coat to protect the rub-ons?? And excuse me for my bad manners; thank you for the compliment. I'll post a few more pix of my restored 302's .
Flyernut,

Good question!

I've used Woodland Scenics rubs ons (dry rub decals) to re-number and re-letter a few projects. I really like the look of the dry decal, as you don't see any of the "clear film margin" associated with wet-transfer decals. That said, I've been leaving my dry rubs uncovered after application. My locos and cars get only very light, gentle use, so decal errosion is not too much of a concern to me. But, if the gang here has a definitive method/product to topcoat and protect dry rubs (without damaging or affecting the nearby paint), I'd be most happy to hear it.

I know that T-Man is a big fan of Mod Podge for some of his paper work.

Beautiful looking locos, by the way ... clean, crisp metal trim ... nice!

Cheers,

TJ
 

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Flyernut,


I'm jealous!:laugh: Nice locomotives, great collection:thumbsup:

I love the mixture of O and S. I hope to do the same soon, as I'm just getting into S scale for the first time.

Good question about dry transfers, I've only ever used wet transfer decals before, so I don't know:confused:

Cheers, Ian
 

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I guess not.:dunno:
 

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I enjoy using the dry transfers, but there is a secret to it to get them on right. But they do look good..
 

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I enjoy using the dry transfers, but there is a secret to it to get them on right. But they do look good..
When I have to rub on individual number or letters from a tranfer sheet where they are mounted randomly, I'll use a single-edge razor to cut the desired row(s) of numbers from the sheet ... with the cut 1/16" (or so) below the bottom of the numbers.

Then, on my model, I'll apply a line of low-stick tape 1/16" below where I want the bottom of my numbers to be. Then, I place the cut transfer sheet row with its edge abutting my tape. Rub the desired numer digit. Slide the row to the next desired number digit and rub, etc.

Perfect number-to-number alignment and positioning.

TJ
 

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Discussion Starter #16
When I have to rub on individual number or letters from a tranfer sheet where they are mounted randomly, I'll use a single-edge razor to cut the desired row(s) of numbers from the sheet ... with the cut 1/16" (or so) below the bottom of the numbers.

Then, on my model, I'll apply a line of low-stick tape 1/16" below where I want the bottom of my numbers to be. Then, I place the cut transfer sheet row with its edge abutting my tape. Rub the desired numer digit. Slide the row to the next desired number digit and rub, etc.

Perfect number-to-number alignment and positioning.

TJ
That's the secret.. As in anything, the prep work is the key...
 

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Restored Loco's

Flyer,
Nice job on the restorations. Did you replace the headlight lenses, or clean them. I remember reading they can be cleaned to remove the yellow. But I can't remember what was used to clean them, and can't find the article again.
Thank you,
George
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Flyer,
Nice job on the restorations. Did you replace the headlight lenses, or clean them. I remember reading they can be cleaned to remove the yellow. But I can't remember what was used to clean them, and can't find the article again.
Thank you,
George
I just cleaned them George, with some alchohol. I masked over them with some masking tape and sprayed away..
 
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