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That wire is a 'jumper' which should end at the frog AFAIK. Could be wrong, though.

If you would like to modify this turnout to be insulated (no power, dead) at the frog, you'll have to sever the closure rails close to the frog, and also the frog rails.

You want to be careful. When you cut into rails in the middle of a turnout, bad things can happen. For one, you might leave a length of rail that is not well secured by any small plastic 'spikehead' details. Choose your gap's location accordingly. It may end up with a rather lengthy dead place in order to sever the frog from power.

Your gap cutter might leave a larger gap than you, and your rolling stock, will like if you are unsteady and/or don't have the right tools. You'd want a thin cut-off disk at the least, and use the Dremel-type tool with the flexible cable.

The very best way to do this, as I have learned and adopted, is to use a jeweler's saw with a very thin hair-like filament blade. Used properly, they leave very tiny gaps that are almost invisible.
 

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Could I just cut it off and still use it?
Maybe, why not drill a hole in layout and leave it hang loose in case you need it later?

I looked at my other electrofrogs and didn't see this particular wire.
They must have changed there assembly details at some point in time.


They all work fine with manual control.
I use manual control but power up my frogs on Atlas turnouts in specific areas.
 

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If you would like to modify this turnout to be insulated (no power, dead) at the frog, you'll have to sever the closure rails close to the frog, and also the frog rails.
Actually, the rails are already gapped. They are jumpered by the small wire connecting the gap. 3 ties below the frog you will see the bottom of two rails. There is a small jumper wire connecting the rail halves. Cutting that wire kills power to the frog. Of course, then you have to provide power to the frog via a switch of some type.
 
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