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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so I have my layout on my floor that I am going to use. Going to make it 10" shorter to give room to the closet, maybe, lol...

but...
I am 5'10 and curious as I know this will be a personal choice but I know someone did the science behind it, or someone my height did a table too high or too short....

curious on what you prefer for your height as I am going to start building my track this weekend...

thx for the input!

will be 10x6.6 or 11x6.6
 

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48" to the table top of the lowest track elevation. It only goes up from there.

THere is very little science involved. It's a matter of economics. I can get two table legs out of an 8' 1x4 with no waste.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
track layout for those interested...

I am hoping to do a bridge to the right and do a loop over there. i will use more turnouts but this was a quick throw together.

20200118_184028_1579803452959.jpg

Screenshot_20200123-132143_Chrome_1579803726868.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #5
also this is the old tube track. Still use the foam boards from lowes/home depot? and what screws to hold track down through foam boards?
 

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You will most likely have need to work under your
layout table. That can be cramped. I measured my
'height' sitting as I would under the table, and added
2 or 3 more inches. That result will provide a
height that will let you work but without bumping your head.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You will most likely have need to work under your
layout table. That can be cramped. I measured my
'height' sitting as I would under the table, and added
2 or 3 more inches. That result will provide a
height that will let you work but without bumping your head.

Don
good point. didnt think of that
 

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I made my new layout 40", but since the multi-ply and Homasote added to that it's 41". Of course the floor isn't perfectly level either, so at some places, it's a bit over 42". I'd like it to be a bit lower for viewing, but since I have to work under there, my slide-around work chair has to fit, that worked out to be 40".

My head clears the beams about about 2" when I'm sitting in the chair under the layout.

20190720_172157.png
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I made my new layout 40", but since the multi-ply and Homasote added to that it's 41". Of course the floor isn't perfectly level either, so at some places, it's a bit over 42". I'd like it to be a bit lower for viewing, but since I have to work under there, my slide-around work chair has to fit, that worked out to be 40".

My head clears the beams about about 2" when I'm sitting in the chair under the layout.

View attachment 523106
i saw this in another thread. great idea!!!
 

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Like Michael E, mine is at about 44" at Elevation = 0., so I'm cutting the lumber at 41". That, plus a 2" foam base, plus another inch-ish for the leveling feet. It 's close enough to eye level (I'm 6'1") that it feels like I'm in the scene rather than observing from a tall building, but still low enough that I don't have any reach issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Like Michael E, mine is at about 44" at Elevation = 0., so I'm cutting the lumber at 41". That, plus a 2" foam base, plus another inch-ish for the leveling feet. It 's close enough to eye level (I'm 6'1") that it feels like I'm in the scene rather than observing from a tall building, but still low enough that I don't have any reach issues.

gotcha... what foam you use? then how do you keep the track down on the foam?
 

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My layout is about one foot off the attic floor. It’s a giant PITA to work under or to shimmy under to get to access hatches, but since the ceiling is sloped, making it higher would have cut down on the layout area.

My staging area is about 50 inches above the third floor. It’s a bit higher than I would like, but it has to be that height to match the level of the attic layout.
 

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gotcha... what foam you use? then how do you keep the track down on the foam?
2" extruded foam insulating panels. Made by Dow, Corning and a few others. Widely available at home centers and lumberyards.

Latex adhesive caulk is used to glue foam roadbed to the extruded foam -- I lay a 1/8" bead along the track centerline, spread it with a fake credit card from junk mail, and press the roadbed down in. I glue the track on top of that using the same technique.
 

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The silver one is a don't use! The green one I think is ok, but even in FL I've never seen 3/4. You should easily find 2" thick green foam in NJ. You want to be able to carve it with a sharp knife. White is not good either. You can used "Liquid Nails For Projects" to hold pieces of foam together (not just "liquid Nails"!!!!!!)
 

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My O scale is 48 3/4 but got smarter on the n and made it perfect computer desk chair height so I could work on it sitting down 30 inches.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The silver one is a don't use! The green one I think is ok, but even in FL I've never seen 3/4. You should easily find 2" thick green foam in NJ. You want to be able to carve it with a sharp knife. White is not good either. You can used "Liquid Nails For Projects" to hold pieces of foam together (not just "liquid Nails"!!!!!!)
yes they have thicker... was a quick pic of it.

im not looking at doing scenery, carving, rocks, mountains, etc..

my goal is to run a layout for some time, when the time is right... then im going to switch it around.

o gauge is ok to just sit on the foam? i figured 1/2" for some sound dampening and screws that can go through the foam into the plywood.
 
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