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Personally, I would start from scratch (too much to touch-up), strip the shell and repaint. In my experience no matter how you try to feather the edges they always seem to ghost through on the repaint. However there are others here who may have a workable technique. J.B.
 

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Set #5515T

The set is complete except for the original carton which was damaged and thrown away by the original owner. It was also offered in the 54' catalogue as 5411T but with green New Haven cars. The Dinky Ford I just put there since it happened to be in the box (wondered what happened to it). J.B.
 

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The set is complete except for the original carton which was damaged and thrown away by the original owner. It was also offered in the 54' catalogue as 5411T but with green New Haven cars. The Dinky Ford I just put there since it happened to be in the box (wondered what happened to it). J.B.
Great looking set. The 955 cars with the silhouettes are not common and not easy to find. The green cars didn't have silhouettes. It's always fun when you get a set and there are extras with it that the original owner had and kept with it.
 

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Sagas, that is an absolutely beautiful set. However it is not a 5411T set; that set had a 287 engine w/o smoke and choo choo. It is also not a 5422T nor a 1954 version of the 5322T set. It is in fact a 5515T set. A complete boxed set would have the exact items you pictured plus a #1 1/2 transformer, a 706 uncoupler, 12 702 curve tracks, #40 smoke set, 12 track locks and a 690 track terminal.
 

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Discussion Starter #285
Very nice set Sagas.

I was not going to try to touchup that 290. It needs a complete repaint.
Whats the best way to strip the shell. Sandblasted would be nice but you could never save the cab numbers.
 

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Sagas, that is an absolutely beautiful set. However it is not a 5411T set; that set had a 287 engine w/o smoke and choo choo. It is also not a 5422T nor a 1954 version of the 5322T set. It is in fact a 5515T set. A complete boxed set would have the exact items you pictured plus a #1 1/2 transformer, a 706 uncoupler, 12 702 curve tracks, #40 smoke set, 12 track locks and a 690 track terminal.
Tom, I do have the transformer, uncoupler, etc. Just didn't bother to put them out. Also didn't notice the 5411T had a 287 not a 283. Thanks, J.B.

Very nice set Sagas.

I was not going to try to touchup that 290. It needs a complete repaint.
Whats the best way to strip the shell. Sandblasted would be nice but you could never save the cab numbers.
Flyernut would most likely have the best advise since he seems to do a fair amount of repaints. There are also a few YouTube videos on the subject. I've never had to go that far, only some very minor touchups. J.B.
 

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I sandblast the boiler shell and use a chemical stripper, brake fluid, or easy off oven cleaner on the tender shell. The tender chassis can withstand sandblasting, and I do sandblast it.
 

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flyernut and others

Sandblasting is certainly a good way to go but may I suggest using glass beads also? Looks just like white sand, does the same job but isn't as hard on metal as sand. I have used the glass beading method since my hot rod building days. In fact I have had the same blasting cabinet for years. I can regulate the air pressure so as to not damage softer metal. For whatever reason, the glass beading leaves the metal surface, well, glass smooth. In fact, it does something to the metal surface. I have left bare metal car items on my bench for days before painting and no sign of rust. Even in humid days. Since I am not a metallurgist, I have no idea why bare metal does not rust after glass beading. I have yet to find anything the glass beading method will not remove from metal.
And no painting isn't a problem with the surface being the way it is. Just prime and paint. Paint with primer in it works too.
 

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Discussion Starter #289
IMG_0555.JPG

A nice 940 Wabash hopper and caboose. I know, I know, hopper has 2 different trucks. Not sure what that is about, because I think it has knuckle couplers on both ends. Nice thing about the hoppers trucks are secured with screws and its easy to make a transition car. I have a couple. I can not see the caboose number real well. Looks like maybe a 906. If you can see it well let me know the number. For some reason I see many Wabash hoppers with faint lettering. This one is good.
 

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Mopac , I would like to revisit your 290 one more time. The number stamps are as strong as I have ever seen. If it were mine I would absolutely try to save them. Careful hand sanding of the shell to feather the chip edges and then several coats of paint might work. Unless someone puts their nose right up to it it will look great.
Here is a repost of my 290. It looked just like yours before I sanded and painted it. I put Vaseline over the numbers inside the rivet detail. Note that by ending the Vaseline at the rivets a paint line is not visible.
If it does not work out you can always blast it later.

4F02C961-92C2-49E0-A068-785B5EDFDF23.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #293
Thanks Tom. Can not see your paint line around the cab numbers. Good job. I was thinking the rivet lines would be best. I think the hand sanding will work. May not be perfect but a lot better. Your 290 looks great.
 

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Discussion Starter #294
IMG_0544.JPG

924 covered hopper and 24221 hopper. The cars are far from great condition, but usable.
The Missouri Pacific took in the C&EI in 1976.
 

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I always liked the 24221. They are hard to find in good condition, probably because the gray paint over black plastic was not durable enough.
 

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Nice touch up Tom, can't tell at all . Mopac, you should try as Tom suggests, nothing to loose . Don't have a 24221 C&EI. Never came across one that wasn't beat or broken. Fred, I have a 969 similar to yours. I'll try to take some pics. today of it. It's got a couple of odd things about it, which is why I bought it. Here's a few pics. of my 271 Whistle Stop set. IMG_0228.JPG

IMG_0229.JPG

IMG_0230.JPG

IMG_0227.JPG
 

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Including a great condition OB, now you are talking! Sorry, I am one of those people that like the packaging almost as much as the contents.
 
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