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Kenny, don't worry. I am not going to convert the 21005. I do have 20 TMCC/Railsounds engine conversions, all are American Models engines. When I said operate with my Legacy system I meant install the GGD TMCC/Railsounds boards, there are no aftermarket Legacy conversion boards. The 21005 is way too small to install the commercially available TMCC/Railsounds equipment.
The layout operates with a Legacy system and the Layout Control System. Track is powered from a pair of ZW-L's. I can run conventional by simply controlling the track voltage with the CAB-2. The ZW-L starts at zero volts so it works well for very slow starts. The issue I have is only Line 2 is set up for easy conventional operation. The entire line is one Power District. The other two Lines are multiple Power Districts and involve switching the Cab2 4 times from PD to PD as the train runs. The layout was really built for Legacy control of Legacy and TMCC engines. I build seasonal Gilbert layouts to run the Gilbert engines.
 

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Tom I investigated all that you have described before I bought the TMCC version. I determined that since all I was ever going to run was pure Gilbert American Flyer, I wouldn't need the Legacy. As you may have noticed from my pics of my TMCC, I have the Cab1 and I bought only the Cab2 wiring control box to run accessories or what ever I needed. Since my layout is around the walls that hand held controller sure is a step savor and one time a train savor. (collision)

Like you, my main line is one power district. The part you see there in front of my control stand is a second power district so that I can run an engine back and forth in that tank car area. It can connect to the main eventually. One rail is cut to prevent absent minded people, (me) from running a GP into the closed main line switch. In other words, coming out of that tank car yard, the engine can only go as far as the cut is unless the diverging leg of the switch in the main is turned toward that track.

Good to know that you weren't or can't convert that great looking 21005. On the other hand as I have said before to people, your rail road, your choice. You are the COO.
 

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I forgot to mention those who may have noticed the cord of the 1113 seems to be wrapped around it and maybe not working. Not so. There is a power strip mounted to the stand right in front of it. There are actually 3 strips mounted on the stand. I don't like everything plugged into one strip in case there is some sort of electrical problem. This way it is easy to isolate the issue.
 

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You have a good setup for remote controlled operation of Gilbert engines. Well thought out.
I operate only Legacy or Legacy compatible engines on my main layout. Occasionally I will run a Gilbert engine around Line 2 just for fun. I can only run those engines without the diesel horn or steam whistle since these sound constantly from the harmonics in the output waveform of the ZW-L.
One of the advantages of using a Legacy base along with an LCS WiFi module is expensive Cab2's or hard to find Cab1's are no longer needed. Just purchase the App one time from the App store and it can be put on as many iPhones as you want. We had several old iPhones laying around no longer used so I now use them to run the trains. These are old 5's and 6's. They make great remote handhelds to run the trains.
 

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It has been quiet here today. I am still at the “house with no trains” in San Diego, so I looked through my picture archive for something to post.
This is a rare Boys At The Crossing dealer display from the early 1950’s. It was mint in the OB with all the correct paper inside the box and excellent condition ink stampings on the OB. It was taken out and carefully assembled, then placed in a custom made plexiglass protective enclosure. I have had it for 12 years.

BD69FD12-62CB-4E16-B876-039C42630FAA.jpg
 

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Thanks guys. There is a story here so I will subject all you readers to it. The prior owner made the decision to assemble the display and had the plexiglass box built. I spoke with him extensively about the decision. When he decided to sell he put it on ebay before I could make an offer to buy it. The display attracted a number of bidders since these are extremely rare and are almost never sold in this condition. All but myself and one other bidder dropped out as the bid price climbed. As we went back and forth I got frustrated and put in a max price beyond all reason because I wanted it. The other bidder dropped well short of my max, thank goodness, so I won it.
I found out later the other bidder was Dennis Bagby, a friend of mine. Wish I would have contacted him! Most of you know who Dennis is without realizing it. If you have Volume 3 of the American Flyer photo books with pricing all of the sets photographed for that book were owned by Dennis.
To give a direct answer, were the display still in the box I would have assembled it.
 

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Interesting story Tom. When you said Dennis Bagby, I knew I had read that name at some point. He appears to have a fabulous collection from all the photos in the book. I probably would have assembled it too. Some things need to be seen to be fully appreciated. Anyway, here is a picture of my 316 K5 that I referenced the other day. IMG_0049.JPG
 

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Thanks Mopac. The other side of the 636 is actually better looking. No marks like in the pic. Of course I wasn't paying attention when I took the photo. Those cars have some weight to them with the die-cast bodies and the reels combined.
 

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That is funny and a bit timely. I was going through my son's old stuff and found his Megabloks "Hanger 18". It is just like Lego. And i thought it would be funny to incorporate it into a layout. Pretty big though. Maybe inset it into a hill, like Cheyenne mountain.
 

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Funny how sometimes brilliant minds think a like! That hanger does look a little big but if you put it far enough back from the front edge and in some sort of mountain scene, I think that would work. Maybe surround the hanger with mountains and have only a portion of it showing? The mountains would take some of the size away.
 

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I mentioned a while back that I had an around the walls layout with a bridge connecting the 2 sides. It has been in operation for 3 years and still don't have the bridge deck done yet!!
You can see in the last picture how the bridge hinges. It is actually 2 x 4 construction with Plastistruct side pieces to represent steel construction. The beveled track ends are shown a part and not touching to illustrate how the track current is transferred. The track on the bridge is wired as well as each end of track leading up to it. When lowered, the beveled ends make good solid contact. There are guides on the landing side to make sure of proper track alignment when the bridge is lowered. There was a lot of trial and error involved in that project!

AF pics for Forum 117.jpg

AF pics for Forum 118.jpg

AF pics for Forum 170.jpg

AF pics for Forum 173.jpg
 

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I mentioned a while back that I had an around the walls layout with a bridge connecting the 2 sides. It has been in operation for 3 years and still don't have the bridge deck done yet!!
You can see in the last picture how the bridge hinges. It is actually 2 x 4 construction with Plastistruct side pieces to represent steel construction. The beveled track ends are shown a part and not touching to illustrate how the track current is transferred. The track on the bridge is wired as well as each end of track leading up to it. When lowered, the beveled ends make good solid contact. There are guides on the landing side to make sure of proper track alignment when the bridge is lowered. There was a lot of trial and error involved in that project!
Wow, that is way cool. I like your out-of-the-box thinking! Very ingenious. Thanks for sharing that.

I've been wanting to ask: did you prepare the edges of the ceiling tiles for your "bluffs" in any particular fashion? After breaking them to size, how did you shape them? Knife? Sanding? Other method?
 
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