[Tinman]

Hi everyone.
I used to "play" with trains when I was younger, but, for a variety of reasons - raising a family, the job, etc., - my hobby got placed on the back burner. Actually, it was put in a box and was buried in the basement. Now I have grand kids and I think that they would have fun playing with the train and developing a layout.

I have an old MTH Rail King set with a Sante FeCab #16 EMD F3 A Unit Diesel 3 rail with ProtoSounds. No. 30-40211A and a bunch of RealTrax. It is powered by a Z-750. The base layout that I put together is L-shaped and has about 58' of track.

I got the Engine out and tried to run it, but it wouldn't work at all. I ordered a rechargeable battery for it from MTH, charged it up and now it runs, but not very smoothly - it keeps starting and stopping.

Here are my questions:
1. I assume that the engine is not running very well because of two things - the track being dirty/oxidized and the engine probably needs a "tune up".
- What is the best way to clean up the track?
- How to "tune up" the engine?
2. Is the Z-750 enough power? It is attached to the track in one location.
3. Is the power AC? Which rails deliver the power? Is there a ground rail?
4. I am not a fan of having to move the "transformer" lever back and forth a specific number of times to get it to go forward, reverse of whatever. Is there a way to simply operate the engine forward and reverse without having to enter the "secret code"? I just want the engine to run on the track.

Thank you in advance for your help.

Brian

 

[Big Ed]

Hi everyone.
I used to "play" with trains when I was younger, but, for a variety of reasons - raising a family, the job, etc., - my hobby got placed on the back burner. Actually, it was put in a box and was buried in the basement. Now I have grand kids and I think that they would have fun playing with the train and developing a layout.

I have an old MTH Rail King set with a Sante FeCab #16 EMD F3 A Unit Diesel 3 rail with ProtoSounds. No. 30-40211A and a bunch of RealTrax. It is powered by a Z-750. The base layout that I put together is L-shaped and has about 58' of track.

I got the Engine out and tried to run it, but it wouldn't work at all. I ordered a rechargeable battery for it from MTH, charged it up and now it runs, but not very smoothly - it keeps starting and stopping.

Here are my questions:
1. I assume that the engine is not running very well because of two things - the track being dirty/oxidized and the engine probably needs a "tune up".
- What is the best way to clean up the track?
- How to "tune up" the engine?
2. Is the Z-750 enough power? It is attached to the track in one location.
3. Is the power AC? Which rails deliver the power? Is there a ground rail?
4. I am not a fan of having to move the "transformer" lever back and forth a specific number of times to get it to go forward, reverse of whatever. Is there a way to simply operate the engine forward and reverse without having to enter the "secret code"? I just want the engine to run on the track.

Thank you in advance for your help.

Brian

Track cleaning,
https://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=2433&highlight=tubular+track

Just the top of the rail needs to be clean, and where it connects together. I never had that track.

clean your wheels too, and the pickup rollers, Isopropanol will work.

750 should be plenty of power which is AC.
Center rail power outsides are ground.

Engine must need oiling, just a few drops will do it.

Last question someone should answer, I only have a few locomotives like that.
I am a hand on the throttle guy.

Ask away someone should help, I see you been waiting a while this should get you going.

I also think there is a better battery to use, depending on what you bought. Gunrunner should chime in on that. I forget what it is.
I don't have time to search right now.

 

[Tinman]

Thank you very much, Big Ed!

 

[Millstonemike]

It is powered by a Z-750. The base layout that I put together is L-shaped and has about 58' of track.

Brian

In addition to cleaning and lubing the loco and cleaning the tracks, I'd check the track connections to insure good conductivity between sections. And I use more than one drop from the transformer for 58' of track.

 

[B&O Forever]

What Big Ed said. Plus

Never use steel wool ANYWHERE! The "crumbs" will find their way into your engine and ruin it.

A few drops of oil will oil everything you own. Don't overdo it.

Have fun.

 

[santafe158]

As far as the "secret code," most locomotives in 3 rail O gauge have had the standard Forward-Neutral-Reverse-Neutral sequence of changing direction for almost 100 years. They do generally have a way to lock them in one direction, but I don't have any experience with the early protosound locomotives to know whether or not they have that feature. It would sort of surprise me if they don't.

Good luck getting the set up and running like new! Sounds like you're off to a good start with the above advice.

 

[Millstonemike]

4. I am not a fan of having to move the "transformer" lever back and forth a specific number of times to get it to go forward, reverse of whatever. Is there a way to simply operate the engine forward and reverse without having to enter the "secret code"? I just want the engine to run on the track.

Brian

I think all the ProtoSound versions can be programmed in conventional. And I understand ProtoSound 1 was a direct derivative of the QS1 system.

The attached PDF is the QS1 manual. Pretty lengthy. On page 38, the first paragraph under "Figure 20", are the instructions to lock an engine's direction control. You could just lock it in forward. It worked for me. My eBay purchase arrived locked in neutral. I was able to lock it in the F-N-R state. Beware timing and throttle settings when programming the engine. You may have to read the basics in the manual before you can set the direction control.

Then, a PDF for MTH's PS1 trouble shooting manual.

Lastly, this Link to MTH's Loco troubleshooting documents for all versions.

View attachment QSI QS-1 Train Control Manual.pdf

View attachment PS1 Troubleshooting Chart.pdf

On reflection, I think you want to avoid the operational start-up sequence after reset. I don't think that's possible. But I think user techniques can avoid spurious reset states during "play time". Perhaps never lowering the throttle to 0. I just haven't used my PS1 ABA but once and will sell it as my focus changed to prewar ...

 

[Tinman]

Thank you everyone.

I have some work to do. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thank you very much again.

Brian