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Discussion Starter #1
Functions normally with fixed voltage plug, but no lights or action on track power. Looking for suggestions as to where to start checking. Thank you.

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The fixed plug was not installed when I first tried the switch. I installed it, provided accessory voltage and the switch functioned. I'll check that the spring contact is not bent and is making contact. In case that's not it, what's next?

Pete
 

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Well Pete, that's almost surely it, clean the contact area between the leaf contact and the post before you totally give it up as well. A simple test is to provide track power and then hold the two together, I'm betting you'll find that the switch comes alive.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Still no joy. Looks like the next step is to pull the switch motor and see what's up with the other end of the red wire that's soldered to the spring contact.

Pete
 

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The contact is connected to the center rail. You need throttle to turn it on. That's my plan B.
Also, this is really simple with no intention to insult your intelligence, The switch will not switch, if it is aready in position. I am not positive but I do not think it will even buzz at that point.

Plan C is check your wiring. Here.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The contact is connected to the center rail. You need throttle to turn it on. That's my plan B.
Also, this is really simple with no intention to insult your intelligence, The switch will not switch, if it is aready in position. I am not positive but I do not think it will even buzz at that point.

Plan C is check your wiring. Here.

Correct. Throttle was up full, lighted car on track to confirm. Wiring is like all my other working switches. And why would I be trying to throw the switch to the position it's already in? That would just be silly. Hope you're having fun and thanks for the "help."

Meantime, I'm thinking the problem is the wiring from the switch frog rail, possibly the contact spring.

Pete
 

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022 switches do not buzz or do anything if they're already in position, the non-derailing feature and the switch voltage is fed through the contacts. If the switch gets power with the constant voltage plug but not with track power, the issue is very close to the contact for the constant voltage plug. There's a wire that runs from the leaf contact to pickup track power, maybe the contact that picks up the power is bad, split the switch halves and check that.
 

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Pete, go check my post "022/711 switch operating pblms" on the trains.com forum. I posted a complete set of instructions on how to restore the 022 switches to reliable operation. There are many things to do to the switches to cure all the problems of age.

One of the things that happens to the spring contact for the constant voltage plug is that the spring breaks off or the rivet holding it breaks. I give instructions on how to fix both problems.
Bruce Baker
 

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John, I can't find the post. I wonder if the wizards lost it? Is there an archive on that site? I tried 022/711 switch operation pblms, 022/711 switch operating pblms, 022/711 switch and nothing comes up. Any ideas. If that post is lost, we have lost something very valuable. I had a lot of work in that post.
BB
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Problem Solved

Wiring from the constant voltage plug was OK but once I removed the switch machine I could see the frog rail spring wasn't making proper contact at the other end. Straightened it a little and we good to go.

Bruce - I printed out your excellent O22 overhaul instructions some time ago, put 'em in my train folder and forgot I had them.:eek:

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Pete, could you post the instructions on this web site? They seem to be gone from the other web site.
Thanks
Bruce
Glad to:

 "I have just finished a long project of restoring 55 022 switches. Here is what I have found and what I
recommend. I hope I don't miss anything. This involves oiling and soldering and a little adjustment.
When you are done with the switches, they should operate very smoothly.

1. Remove the switch motor cover, the switch motor, and the back cover of the switch.

2. Lubricate the following places in the switch motor: The latch should be oiled at the pivots and
where it slides over the moving piece that is connected to the solenoid. Lubricate the lantern pivot and
the gear. Lubricate the slide that is attached to the solenoid. Lubricate the two rivets that hold the slide
with the contacts. Put two drops of oil in the solenoid. Test the switch motor by putting a lantern in the
lantern holder and turning it. It should turn very freely.

3. Solder all the crimp connections on the bottom side of the switch. These are often high resistance
due to corrosion. I either wire brush them with a small soft wire wheel in a Dremel tool, or use a fine
sandpaper wheel in the Dremel tool. There are a total of 6 places to solder: Two for the center rails,
one for each of the rails that are the rails for the non-derailing feature, and two that connect the two
outside rails together. To sand the clip that connects the two outer rails, I had to reverse the sanding
disc on the Dremel tool. Don't put too much solder on this clip, or the solder may interfere with the
operation of the switch motor. Use a Scotchbrite pad to clean the clip where it contacts the switch
motor frame. This is the ground connection between the switch motor and the outside rails. Clean the
corresponding area on the switch motor, and put a little WD-40 on things. Tighten the screw that
connects the center rail to the strap. Work the screw back and forth a couple of times to burnish the
contact area. Test the connections between the outside rails and the center rails. I use a cheap meter
that you can buy from Harbor Freight for this. The resistance should be less than 0.1 ohms. These
cheap meters usually don't read zero ohms when you short the leads together, but whatever they do
read with the leads shorted you can use as your "zero."

4. Clean the silver contacts with WD-40. Most of the tarnish should come off of them. Do not use
anything abrasive to clean them as it will probably damage the silver. Leave some WD-40 on these
contacts as it is an excellent contact cleaner.

5. Use a wire brush on a Dremel tool to clean the 3 contacts on the bottom of the switch that connect
to the switch motor. One of these is a flat brass strip that is spring loaded and connects to the fat center
rail. The other two connect to the two rails that are used to make the switch non-derailing.

6. Clean the two contacts on the switch motor that mate with the two pins on the bottom of the switch
that connect to the non-derailing rails. Bend these two up a little so they make a good contact, and put
a little WD-40 on them. Clean the two brass contacts on each side between the silver contacts with a
wire brush on the Dremel tool. These two contact are where the power comes to the switch motor
from the center rail. One or the other is used depending on which side the switch motor is on.

7. Put a little WD-40 on the contact spring that contacts the pin for the constant voltage plug. Snap the
spring a few times to make sure the contact is clean. If the rivet that holds this spring is broken (I had
two switches with broken rivets), you can repair it by soldering it back together. Clean both surfaces
with a wire wheel in a Dremel tool, and tin each surface with solder. Then hold the spring in place and
heat the spring until the solder softens, and then hold the spring in place until the solder cools. You
need to make sure the spring is somewhat bent when you do this so that it makes a good contact with
the pin.

8. Put the switch motor back on the switch. Put a drop of oil in each of the screw holes so you can get
the screws out 100 years from now. Check the switch for smooth operation. It should operate
smoothly with minimal friction. Check the resistance between each of the outer terminals and the
appropriate non-derailing rail. Once again, the resistance should be less than 0.1 ohms. Check the
resistance between the center rail and the constant voltage pin. It should be less than 0.1 ohms. Check
the resistance between the center terminal and one of the outside rails. It should be less than 0.1 ohms.
Check the resistance between each of the outer terminals and the center rail with the switch points
about half way beween the two outer rails. They should be about 7-8 ohms.

9. There is a solder tab on the constant voltage pin that is usually very near the pin. If you bend this tab
away from the pin, you can use a blue crimp lug for a constant voltage plug. These crimp lugs don't
come loose like the Lionel plugs do. Some switch motors have a pin that is too large to use the crimp
lug, so for these, you will have to use a Lionel plug.

10. Put the covers on and again check the switch for smooth operation. You may have to move the
switch motor cover around a little to make sure the lantern does not bind against the cover.

11. Check the end of the fat center rail to see that it is not bent down. If it is, your little 0-4-0 switch
engine may stall on the switch. If you bend it up too far, it will open the electromagnetic couplers for
you.

I hope I didn't miss anything. If I think of something else, I'll post it later."

Sorry 'bout the formatting, I just copied it over from wordperfect.

Pete
 

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CTT FOrum

I found this Bruce 022 switch

Posted By Bruce AKA Servoguy.


I have just finished a long project of restoring 55 022 switches. Here is what I have found and what I recommend. I hope I don't miss anything. This involves oiling and soldering and a little adjustment. When you are done with the switches, they should operate very smoothly.


1. Remove the switch motor cover, the switch motor, and the back cover of the switch.

2. Lubricate the following places in the switch motor: The latch should be oiled at the pivots and where it slides over the moving piece that is connected to the solenoid. Lubricate the lantern pivot and the gear. Lubricate the slide that is attached to the solenoid. Lubricate the two rivets that hold the slide with the contacts. Put two drops of oil in the solenoid. Test the switch motor by putting a lantern in the lantern holder and turning it. It should turn very freely.

3. Solder all the crimp connections on the bottom side of the switch. These are often high resistance due to corrosion. I either wire brush them with a small soft wire wheel in a Dremel tool, or use a fine sandpaper wheel in the Dremel tool. There are a total of 6 places to solder: Two for the center rails, one for each of the rails that are the rails for the non-derailing feature, and two that connect the two outside rails together. To sand the clip that connects the two outer rails, I had to reverse the sanding disc on the Dremel tool. Don't put too much solder on this clip, or the solder may interfere with the operation of the switch motor. Use a Scotchbrite pad to clean the clip where it contacts the switch motor frame. This is the ground connection between the switch motor and the outside rails. Clean the corresponding area on the switch motor, and put a little WD-40 on things. Tighten the screw that connects the center rail to the strap. Work the screw back and forth a couple of times to burnish the contact area. Test the connections between the outside rails and the center rails. I use a cheap meter that you can buy from Harbor Freight for this. The resistance should be less than 0.1 ohms. These cheap meters usually don't read zero ohms when you short the leads together, but whatever they do read with the leads shorted you can use as your "zero."


4. Clean the silver contacts with WD-40. Most of the tarnish should come off of them. Do not use anything abrasive to clean them as it will probably damage the silver. Leave some WD-40 on these contacts as it is an excellent contact cleaner.

5. Use a wire brush on a Dremel tool to clean the 3 contacts on the bottom of the switch that connect to the switch motor. One of these is a flat brass strip that is spring loaded and connects to the fat center rail. The other two connect to the two rails that are used to make the switch non-derailing.

6. Clean the two contacts on the switch motor that mate with the two pins on the bottom of the switch that connect to the non-derailing rails. Bend these two up a little so they make a good contact, and put a little WD-40 on them. Clean the two brass contacts on each side between the silver contacts with a wire brush on the Dremel tool. These two contact are where the power comes to the switch motor from the center rail. One or the other is used depending on which side the switch motor is on.


7. Put a little WD-40 on the contact spring that contacts the pin for the constant voltage plug. Snap the spring a few times to make sure the contact is clean. If the rivet that holds this spring is broken (I had two switches with broken rivets), you can repair it by soldering it back together. Clean both surfaces with a wire wheel in a Dremel tool, and tin each surface with solder. Then hold the spring in place and heat the spring until the solder softens, and then hold the spring in place until the solder cools. You need to make sure the spring is somewhat bent when you do this so that it makes a good contact with the pin.

8. Put the switch motor back on the switch. Put a drop of oil in each of the screw holes so you can get the screws out 100 years from now. Check the switch for smooth operation. It should operate smoothly with minimal friction. Check the resistance between each of the outer terminals and the appropriate non-derailing rail. Once again, the resistance should be less than 0.1 ohms. Check the resistance between the center rail and the constant voltage pin. It should be less than 0.1 ohms. Check the resistance between the center terminal and one of the outside rails. It should be less than 0.1 ohms. Check the resistance between each of the outer terminals and the center rail with the switch points about half way beween the two outer rails. They should be about 7-8 ohms.

9. There is a solder tab on the constant voltage pin that is usually very near the pin. If you bend this tab away from the pin, you can use a blue crimp lug for a constant voltage plug. These crimp lugs don't come loose like the Lionel plugs do. Some switch motors have a pin that is too large to use the crimp lug, so for these, you will have to use a Lionel plug.


10. Put the covers on and again check the switch for smooth operation. You may have to move the switch motor cover around a little to make sure the lantern does not bind against the cover.


11. Check the end of the fat center rail to see that it is not bent down. If it is, your little 0-4-0 switch engine may stall on the switch. If you bend it up too far, it will open the electromagnetic couplers for you.

I hope I didn't miss anything. If I think of something else, I'll post it later.
end quote

Need Anything else????

I guess we found it.
 

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I did find it with the forum search engine. It took longer to find the forum. I can see it can be deceiving. What a mess. the first time I searched it was the magazine data base not the forum. As a user I have it marked as a favorite now.
 

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What you guys have posted so far is only the first part. It is much longer than what you have posted. Can you find the rest of it?

BB
 
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