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Moderator Torpedo Emeritus
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Not Putty but JBWeld

There are a few of us in the "0" gauge realm, that have done repairs and restorations, and most of us use JBWeld for body work. It can fix a multitude of SINS with being able to repair broken parts, missing marker lights on steamers, etc. There is the normal longer drying type, and there is also a quick drying type. I haven't used the Quick stuff to know how long or how short a time you have to work with it.

You can do a search on here and hopefully find some posts about repairing broken shells, on some Prewar stuff.......courtesy of "T-Man, the King of Epoxy". T-Man had a 1668 Prewar shell that was missing about a 2 to 2 1/2 chunk on both sides missing. He wound up making a plaster mold from a good shell, and then created two new pieces, and sculpted them into the existing shell, and made a good recovery of a "Junk" shell. Just check a few posts in the search feature and see if there are some hints on fixing your broken shell. It's not really that hard. I managed to repair similar breaks on my 211 Alco, that the bottom of the nose piece was cracked on one, and a piece was missing on the other. You would have to look real close, to tell if it was ever broken, and I think it came out great.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Teledoc. I had done some searching but didn't have the right terms. I had to laugh when I Googled "Lionel 225 Diesel", quite a few had broken nose pieces. LOL
 

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Moderator Torpedo Emeritus
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Yeah, pick any one of the Alcos, with the front coupler, and I would say a lot have damaged fronts. If I'm not mistaken, Lionel did make a repair kit of sorts, that reinforced the fronts. The JBWeld can be sanded, or even filed to get the right contour. You just have to experiment a little.
 

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That's why T-man gets the King of Epoxy crown. You will soon find out that JBWeld is your best friend.
 

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I use the JB-Quik all the time, it's workable within an hour, though I recommend you wait a bit longer. JB-Weld takes a lot longer to dry, I leave it for 24 hours before tinkering with it.

JB-Weld is stronger than JB-Quik, so if strength is needed, it's the better choice.
 

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If it's a non-structural crack, you can use green or white Squadron putty. Easily workable, can be sanded, sculpted, painted, and will adhere to all plastics and surface textures.
 

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Hobo for Life
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Ive used plumbers epoxy with good results . Its a tube of puddy that when mixed formes an epoxy. It hardens like steel , you can sand paint and mold it.
 

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sjm, What's it gonna take to get you to jump on the JBWeld bandwagon???????LOL
 

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Hobo for Life
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J b weld makes it too. They call it water weld. That always confused me here. As j b weld is a brand they make tons of different epoxys. I thought this was the stuff everyone was talking about when they said j b weld. I said I got that in my plumbing box. Little did I know it was a different epoxy that everyone else was using:)
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I picked up the JB WELD Water Epoxy which is a putty. Set time 25 mins. Cure in 60. I used a plastic N-scale girder I bent with a heat gun to span the 3/4" gap on in the nose. I liked the consistency of the putty and ability to build it up and shape it with my fingers. We'll see how it goes.

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Hobo for Life
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Thats what I use too. You can sand it smooth. You can also scribe stuff into it before it dries. It will work out good:)
 

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Yay!!!!! Another convert to JBWeld products. It basically comes down to the consistency of the type you use, for shaping or molding, & the cure time.

Ernesthouse, You can use small files, sandpaper, Xacto knives, to get it into the original contour for a repaint, when you are done. The end product will probably be stronger than the rest of it. Plenty of great guys with good tips on this forum, which makes it fun being here.
 

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Yard Master & Research
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Did I hear Epoxy? I found the nose repair thread. To make a mold you do need a good shell. The smaller area you make the easier it is to remove and not break it. If you paint the mold with acrylic paint some of it will transfer. Give it a try.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok, ummmmm, it's been 4 hours and the thick parts (3/16) are still soft and the rest is still tacky. That sound right for the putty? I was expecting 1 hour.
 

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I think someone is getting impatient!!!!! LOL. You should give it a good 24 hours, and then recheck it. I get the same way, and just want to continue the repair, before it is ready.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
After 12 hours, it was still soft. I suspect the end of the putty roll didn't have enough hardener. The instructions say to knead it thoroughly. So I removed it and started anew. I wanted a second go at it anyway as I'm waiting for a part to repair my Dremel.

The putty definitely has a grey inside and white outside. It took a lot of kneading with a metal instrument to get it mixed. I had to move fast as it was obviously hardening much faster and I wanted to sculpt a chin on the left and right sides. After an hour, it's already hardened. FWIW

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Ernesthouse... You can get your photos to show up in your post by going to the "edit" function, choose the advanced option. Look up top on the toolbar and you will see an icon that looks like a paperclip. Click on that, and it drops a menu, and click "insert all". That will show the photos directly in the post, and viewers don't have to click on each attachment to view it.
 
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