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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
As mentioned before, I have plans to expand my current HO layout to one with inclines, reversing loops, sidings, and a yard. I've figured out how to run trains in and out of my yard (pictured below) by using an operations simulator, but was informed by one of my fellow model railroad club members that I might not have enough space between the tail track (at bottom right) and the siding just above it. I've measured just over 2.5 centimeters of space between those two tracks, and will also likely put my yard tracks together to see how much space I actually have (and whether such an arrangement is feasible), but wanted to know your thoughts. Thank you very much.
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How is that 25mm measured? Track center to center, tie edge to tie edge, or rail to rail?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My apologies for not being more specific. As the track I'll be using is already molded to the roadbed, I believe the 25 mm was measured from tie edge to tie edge.

How is that 25mm measured? Track center to center, tie edge to tie edge, or rail to rail?
 

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The answer is simple..
Curves anywhere must be far enough from any other track as to be sure your longest car and loco will not strike any other car or loco's corner or side while under way...Parallel (yard) tracks must be far enough apart as to be able to get your fingers between parked cars without them striking equipment you are not dealing with...If this causes you to amend your track spacing, so be it. There's no getting around (pun intended) car clearances..It's a physical constant we all must comply with...
In the hobby sometimes 1:1 scale practices can not be adhered to in the miniature depiction of them.. 🛤🌵
 

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The only problem I see is backing in a passenger coach while there are cars on the lower yard track. The overhang will likely catch the cars on the lower track. But, since that track is so short you probably won't be backing in 85' passenger wagons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you for letting me know :). I believe I'll have enough space for my fingers between tracks, as well as for the switcher and freight cars I'll likely have in the right side of the yard, but I'll do a real-life experiment nonetheless to see if that's true.

The answer is simple..
Curves anywhere must be far enough from any other track as to be sure your longest car and loco will not strike any other car or loco's corner or side while under way...Parallel (yard) tracks must be far enough apart as to be able to get your fingers between parked cars without them striking equipment you are not dealing with...If this causes you to amend your track spacing, so be it. There's no getting around (pun intended) car clearances..It's a physical constant we all must comply with...
In the hobby sometimes 1:1 scale practices can not be adhered to in the miniature depiction of them.. 🛤🌵
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you for your reply :). Yes, I plan on only putting freight cars on the short tracks in my yard, as I figured (and measured) that my passenger coaches would fit better in the left-hand portion of the yard.

The only problem I see is backing in a passenger coach while there are cars on the lower yard track. The overhang will likely catch the cars on the lower track. But, since that track is so short you probably won't be backing in 85' passenger wagons.
 

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If you were referring to the bottom right caboose track, what's the prob with just angling it, bending it away from neighboring track above it, starting just past the switch (at word "track") ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The only issue with that scenario is that the track I'll be using (and have purchased) is sectional, with the pieces precut and molded to the roadbed, meaning that I wouldn't be able to bend the track. I could, though, put in a curved piece of track so the tail track moves away from the other tracks.

If you were referring to the bottom right caboose track, what's the prob with just angling it, bending it away from neighboring track above it, starting just past the switch (at word "track") ?
 

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It's a 3MPH yard track..Coming from said switch, just add a short RH curve then a short LH curve forming an 'S'...Then continue on out, w/existing straights..You could formulate the 2 pieces by sawing through an extra curve section..
Or, obtain one piece of 3' flex track (ebay), make 'S' with that and continue on out, it stacked up on any number of materials which lift it to the height of neighboring track..Use your noodle..
 

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PS
I Just now noticed what you said in post #9..Yes, do that !..Simply angle it away using one curve only...1:1 would likely do the same thing...I think that would look cool, too !
 

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My apologies for not being more specific. As the track I'll be using is already molded to the roadbed, I believe the 25 mm was measured from tie edge to tie edge.
That should be enough...

For HO scale, center-line to center-line track spacing for parallel straight tracks is typically 2" (~5 cm).

Design measurements/standards aren't usually based on "edge of the ties" measurements but centre-line spacing...
 

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My (HO) yard tracks are 1 1/8" between rails. There is no room for fingers in there.
So based in that, because 25mm is almost exactly one inch, the width of the ties in either side probably won't give you enough clearance to swap out cars in the yard. You'll have to do that elsewhere. You also will probably want to do what real railroads do and mark the "fouling points" on each track. This is the spot at which, if the equipment sits any closer to the points, it is likely to be bumped by equipment moving through the turnout.
 

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My opinion only.

Your yard tracks aren't long enough.
Your runaround track isn't long enough.

I think that yard needs a complete re-design.
You need to get rid of that "stuff in the middle".
The "26.04" track in particular seems to serve no purpose.

Since you're using sectional track (nothing wrong with that, I did too), be prepared to make one or more "reconfigurations" of the yard AFTER you get it into service.

You'll see "what works", and what doesn't work with use.
 

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I have some HO yard tracks spacing at 1.75" center-to-center for 40' cars. There's no way I'll get my fingers between the cars, but I have no intention of picking them up from there anyway. I did what I could with a tight space, and I think it looks pretty cool having a bunch of cars lined up so close together. Use what works best for you, and as long as the cars aren't hitting each other nobody can tell you it's wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thank you all for your replies :). I have imported my complete track plan (including yard) into the TrainPlayer model railroad simulator, and have figured out a way to get cars/coaches in and out of my yard. I've also found no issues with putting cars in the two bottom sidings (though it is a bit tight), and as I'll be using the "put-and-take" operations system for freight (pick up and drop off cars in one trip), it's not likely the sidings on the right-hand side will be completely filled at any time. Furthermore, I'll be using a bamboo skewer to uncouple cars, and will likely take cars off the layout (car ferry) from the yard's lead track, which will be closest to me as I operate the trains.
 

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I would explore possibilities of having the entire yard angled, keeping storage tracks center to utilize maximum length, and a compound ladder. Make the arrival/departure tracks the center longest one or two. The run around can be integrated into the drill track (track leading into the yard) if desired, which would save space. An angled yard would automatically remove 45 degrees of curvature in there. Probably increase storage space by 110% or so.

NO MATTER WHAT… use double sided tape or loops of tape to temporarily hold track in place, and give whatever design you use a good long test, several ops sessions. Test it for a week. Look for problems or areas that could be combined, etc. Sectional track is marvelous for that sort of tinker testing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
That could work, though I'm somewhat limited in terms of space. The room in which I'll be putting my layout has doors that open outward on three sides, and I want to make sure there's enough space for technicians to service and/or remove the heaters/water heaters in the adjoining rooms.

I would explore possibilities of having the entire yard angled, keeping storage tracks center to utilize maximum length, and a compound ladder. Make the arrival/departure tracks the center longest one or two. The run around can be integrated into the drill track (track leading into the yard) if desired, which would save space. An angled yard would automatically remove 45 degrees of curvature in there. Probably increase storage space by 110% or so.

NO MATTER WHAT… use double sided tape or loops of tape to temporarily hold track in place, and give whatever design you use a good long test, several ops sessions. Test it for a week. Look for problems or areas that could be combined, etc. Sectional track is marvelous for that sort of tinker testing.
 

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That could work, though I'm somewhat limited in terms of space. The room in which I'll be putting my layout has doors that open outward on three sides, and I want to make sure there's enough space for technicians to service and/or remove the heaters/water heaters in the adjoining rooms.
I meant just having the yard tracks angled on the “as planned” benchwork. Upper left to lower right, instead of upper left to right side. Less curves, more length. Triangular space on each side for whatever else you want.
 
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