It may, but it may not. This means it falls on you to make a verifiable determination. Mock it up on a part of drywall sheet or plywood, and run your longest items and shortest in combinations. The idea is to find the one item whose stirrups or pilot or window shades....something is going to make you go "D'Ooooohh!!!"running nothing but diesel , no steamers if that makes a deference.
Two nested curves can be on the same radius, but their centers of radius will have to be displaced by the distance between the centerlines. Also, the outer curve cannot have the same parallel extensions because two curves of the same radius that are nested will, because their centerlines are displaced, eventually interfere with each other. That is, they'll cross each other necessarily:thx for input . ill put track parallel and run 2 trains by one another and see what happens . ill lay 24 radius with ties to the line not centered .
If you're using Atlas, Peco, Walthers, or any of several other brands of flex track, this is absolutely a must-do.Just in case you use flex track for curves, before bending any lay 2 or 3 sections out straight somewhere convenient, add rail joiners and solder them together end to end. This ensures a really smooth curve with no kinks where they're joined, when you do bend them. If you don't already own one, buy a pair of Xuron Rail Nippers to trim off any excess rail sticking out too far to mate with an ensuing section of track..It's a very important tool for this hobby. When you do use them, the flat side of the jaws face the good rail, not the rail you're getting rid of..Finally: You cut from top of rail (railhead) to bottom of rail (foot), not from one side of the rail to the other..
Apologies if you already know all this...M, Los Angeles
Either have a lot of invisible kinks in my track that don't affect operations, or I'm not wrong. I'm betting it's the latter.CTVRR, I believe you're incorrect about stiff brands of flex.. Unless you are only needing to install 1 section of it, it's the same situ. You will never get a smooth or kink-less spiral [curve] unless you do the same; solder 2 or more tangents together first, before bending...Stiiff or not it's the same. An exception would be for a really funky bucolic class B or C branch, or 5Mph small yard..Here you might actually want the track kinked in lots of places and even be code 70 or 40..
A lot going on here. When you say switches, I assume you're referring to turnouts, and not the electrical variety.doing the new layout , issues right now are the switches and connecting to a curve . if the rails don't quite meet do u try to even out ( some of my switches the ends aren't even ) ? also having tough time track keeping together till it's connected (nail and pull back up ) ?
Flex track has a sliding rail because the radius of the two rails will be different when you bend them into a curve...but the length of neither rail changes. The idea is to trim off what protrudes, or better yet, slide the extended length into the spike-head details of the mated length of flex track. This strengthens the joint along the curve and helps to avoid kinks at the joint. Works for me, anyway.doing the new layout , issues right now are the switches and connecting to a curve . if the rails don't quite meet do u try to even out ( some of my switches the ends aren't even ) ? also having tough time track keeping together till it's connected (nail and pull back up ) ?