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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Folks,
I use realtrax turnouts and I've found:
1)The control springs pop off and periodically need to be reset.(turn one over, they look like teeny safety pins)
2) Support is a must on carpet (I've used sections of wipe board, peg board and even stiff cardboard.
3) The solenoid has to be set just right
4) They still don't always work.... I control 2 switches with 1 throw off the aux output of a Z-1000. I have 1 that I am constantly climbing across the layout to reset one.

Your thoughts appreciated.
 

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As of last night I have lost all faith in the quality of any "Current Production" RealTrax product. I too am having nothing but trouble with the operation of the switch motors on O-42's I bought this year.

The hand operated switches are complete garbage as far as I am concerned. I tore my entire wiring harness apart looking for what I thought was a short (hit the switch and only get BuZZZZZZ), to find that the contacts in these are just a piece of stamped metal taping against a piece of thin copper. The copper got damaged and the switch was useless. I made a temporary setup from some buttons I had laying around, Got them to work but one was still laboring pretty hard. I figure it was drawing too much power and that what was what killed the cheap hand switch.

I bought some LED's and SPDT Momentary switches and a small project box today and I am going to make my own switch boxes.

I have to figure out how to take apart the track switch and try to fix that.

For $59 you would think they would try just a tad bit harder to make a better product.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
As of last night I have lost all faith in the quality of any "Current Production" RealTrax product. I too am having nothing but trouble with the operation of the switch motors on O-42's I bought this year.

The hand operated switches are complete garbage as far as I am concerned. I tore my entire wiring harness apart looking for what I thought was a short (hit the switch and only get BuZZZZZZ), to find that the contacts in these are just a piece of stamped metal taping against a piece of thin copper. The copper got damaged and the switch was useless. I made a temporary setup from some buttons I had laying around, Got them to work but one was still laboring pretty hard. I figure it was drawing too much power and that what was what killed the cheap hand switch.

I bought some LED's and SPDT Momentary switches and a small project box today and I am going to make my own switch boxes.


I have to figure out how to take apart the track switch and try to fix that.

For $59 you would think they would try just a tad bit harder to make a better product.
Warranty? I know it's a pain. My LHS will have nothing to do with a return and by the time you ship it to MTH....
But that is a great observation, it probably explains why my one Wye doesn't like to switch in response to a loco entering the switch, the burst is too short for the power needed (If I throw it by hand I probably make a longer connection.)
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I just spent 4 hours troubleshooting a Wye.

My layout is here to show that I have made a considerable investment in RealTrax. I also have enough O-31 curves to do this layout in O-31 with leftovers and a pile of straights and more switches (but no extra Wyes). I was gonna fix this>>>> dang it. I do hate these switches, but here I am..



The switch would only throw in 1 direction. I could manually move it to the other position and then throw it back, under power (14Vaux off a Z1000).
After swapping throws, and solenoids, I finally tracked it down to the lower switch in the picture needig to be bent so it pushed its little button in all the way.
The switch started fine and had been slowly failing. I fully expect to need to change the switch, I just need to find a supplier. Swapping it over from another switch was a pain in the neck as they all have solder joints. I think I toasted the switch I tried to swap in when I desoldered it. With that switch in, nothing worked...

There is a continuation to this saga... Support your solenoid, or it will fail you. While I am convinced that the switch was involved, I reassembled everything and had the solenoid sagging (there is a lip on the solenoid box that has to be above the turnout, when the soleniod box is pushed onto the turnoout). Same darn symptom as the solenoid didn't move the slide far enough to push the switch.
 

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3rd year MTH Tinplate 260 Steam PRR Freight set with a Z-1000 conventional. Tyco HO on Tyco, and now on Bachman track since 1977 basic oval.
Marklin Maxi on Aristocraft G scale SS track basic oval since 2000.
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Want to expand the MTH for price quality and availability. I went from an oval with one siding, to now 5 ea. 0-31 switches with one siding and 3 spurs, two off the siding one off the main oval. I had two switches on the mainline, on and off the siding, work fine. Two others off the siding have been the issue. They will stick, and buzz then light goes out which have been driving me nuts. I check all connections. Thought I was losing power in the short side of switch Right hand into a 10” straight then Two left had switches one after the other. After talking to hobby shop I was going to wire all the switches with a positive on the accessories screw, and negative on neg, wire all together then to the mainline. After trouble shooting with a meter for two nights. I instead wired the track bumpers at the ends of the 3 spurs (dead end track pieces). Everything is working great now. Must not have been getting enough power. Still need power up on transformer for best performance when switching.
 

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I thought of that. What is the best way? I want to go DCC. And run two or more trains. Can I run one on DCC through my Z-1000 and just leave it throttled up?
 
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