[flyerrich]

I have two locos that I want to install new motors in. Both have stopped working. They both appeared to burn out. Both were running fine then they started to slow down and smell like they were shorting out and quit. This happened over time and I kept them to remotor at a later date. Although they are not expensive locos I just have an attachment to them and would like to try and refurbish them. The Union Pacific is a Life Like with a motorized truck. The SanteFe is Model Power with a can motor with the drive shafts. Looking for help on what/where I might find replacement suitable motors. Thanks

 

[wvgca]

unfortunately i can't help .. the only motors that i run are the single shaft variety, 18mm square, [i run steamers] .. not double shaft or pancake motors ...
I have -heard- that pancake motors can be replaced with CD motors, but I can't give a replacement model number to you ..
As far as the double shaft motor, measure the length and diameter, [I assume it's 2mm shafts?] and see if there is a low cost [3-7 dollar] replacement for it .. I would run 12 volt at around 7-9,000 rpm or so ..

 

[traction fan]

Motors and gears

I have two locos that I want to install new motors in. Both have stopped working. They both appeared to burn out. Both were running fine then they started to slow down and smell like they were shorting out and quit. This happened over time and I kept them to remotor at a later date. Although they are not expensive locos I just have an attachment to them and would like to try and refurbish them. The Union Pacific is a Life Like with a motorized truck. The Sante Fe is Model Power with a can motor with the drive shafts. Looking for help on what/where I might find replacement suitable motors. Thanks

flyerrich;

Before you replace either motor I suggest trying to turn the gears and wheels by hand. There should be very little resistance with the motors out of the locos. If you feel resistance, it's quite possible that congealed grease or dirt has clogged the gears and that drag resulted in the smell of overworked motors, and ultimately caused them to overheat and fail. If that's what happened, then the new motors might end up the same way, unless you take the truck assemblies apart and clean & lube the gears. An old toothbrush, dipped in alcohol will do a good job of cleaning, and a little Labele plastic-compatible grease will handle the lubrication.

As for motor sources you can try these three. www.micromark.com www.allelectronics.com or www.nwsl.com

Micro mark sells a can motor, suitable for HO-scale, with the drive shafts, and universal joints, included. It might work for the loco in your 2nd photo.

All electronics has many different sized motors. Some would possibly fit that second loco. I don't know if they have pancake motors, except for stepper motors, which will not work for a locomotive.

Northwest short line is going through a sale of the company. Otherwise it would have been my first choice. I don't know if they're back on line yet or not. If they are, great! They specialized in motors and gears for model locomotives. They also sell a powered truck assembly called a "Stanton Drive, which might work for the first loco, instead of using a pancake motor. You could even put one power truck at each end, doubling the pulling power of the locomotive. However that might be too expensive.

Good Luck;

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:

 

[Jscullans]

Hey traction fan just an fyi northwest short line is back up and running again. As far as replacement motors I have a dual shaft dual flywheel motor from nwsl but it’s one of the older sagami motors. I’m honestly not very impressed with it. I took the motor out of the package and hooked it up with jumpers to a dc track and it seemed to run somewhat rough. I’ve bought Mabuchi motors off eBay and they seem to run smooth but don’t have a good rpm range. They make locomotives run like they’re on or off all or nothing unless you change cv values quite a bit. As far as a power truck you can get Stanton drives from nwsl but they’re around $100 a piece. Maybe get on eBay and look up cv backshop they sell full can motor kits for a bunch of different applications. The best motor I’ve run across was the canon en22 but they’re almost a full inch in diameter and not for the beginner modeler. Cost a little more than nwsl too. I installed a pair of them in a rivarossi cab forward. It ran smooth as greased glass and had all kinds of power but I had to mill out part of the frame to make it fit. Never bought parts from micro mark so have no input on them

 

[Panther]

Is that pronounced:
Re-motoring,
OR
Re-motoreing ?

Asking for a friend.

Dan

 

[Dennis461]

The UP 2007 GP38 is difficult to remotor, buy one that runs and swap the chassis.

The Santa Fe looks like an easy job. First thing to do is measure the shafts. Hopefully they are 2mm