You need a drift pin to drive the axle out. The problem starts with assembly. The gear has to be centered so a spacer needs to be made before removal. Support the frame to take the weight. A pair of forks under the wheel helps supported at the ends. Then the wheels need spacers or cups to press evenly. Maybe modified washers will work. The cups are available. Not to mention every drive wheel has to be in exact lineup with gears for side rods to be connected.
Just decide how you want to do it.

 

If I understand right the axle for the main drive doesn't that have to different diameters so when u press out the small diameter should face up were u put the drift pin on. I have a small press that's how I did mine. If I under stand what u said.
Al. Good luck

 

Do you have a theory of what is causing the vibration? I am assuming the gear is not loose on the axle, that would be obvious. That leaves as the most likely cause a worn chassis which means the chassis will need to be rebushed to cure the noise.

 

How is the play in wheels ck the gear teeth to see any damage. Could be bushings are warn. Or axle slight bent try moving it by hand and take out armature. And see if it sill there it process of elimination.

 

The axle will only come out 1 way...Sit the chassis down on it's bottom, with the front facing you. The axle will come out from right to left, and of course with only go back the same way.The gear will more or less self-center when putting the assembly back together. Once the gear is centered on the axle, it won't go any further.

 

Afternoon Flyernut,
It seems the drive gear on the 336 I am working on has a few broken teeth, so I am looking to replace the drive gear. The way you describe it above, but referencing like an american car, does that mean that the axle would come out of the chassy on the passenger side? I was unclear as to whether chassy on its bottom was right side up or upside down. I do better with driver side and passenger side, since that assumes it is on its wheels.
Thanks as always!
Tim

 

Thanks for all the guidance. With the wheels off, it appears that the chassis needs to be rebushed. When I move the axle by hand I can get it make the noise by adjusting the axle up and down slightly.

 

Try a drop of oil on it..The bushings are very easy to pop out on the rear, they are short because of the drive gear. I usually check for up and down wear, and sideways wear. If there's too much wobble, then I replace them.

 

I tried the little bit of oil tonight on the axle. It helped to have both drive wheels off when applying. It certainly runs much quieter now, but it will still make the grinding/ vibrating sound when slowing down to a stop. It is good enough to use, though I still suspect that it will need to be rebushed in the future.

That said, has anyone else done the rebushing themselves? I do not have a drill press. I do have several diesel chassis that need rebushing. How much harder is doinga steam chassis than an early diesel? Or a later diesel?

 

I tried the little bit of oil tonight on the axle. It helped to have both drive wheels off when applying. It certainly runs much quieter now, but it will still make the grinding/ vibrating sound when slowing down to a stop. It is good enough to use, though I still suspect that it will need to be rebushed in the future.

That said, has anyone else done the rebushing themselves? I do not have a drill press. I do have several diesel chassis that need rebushing. How much harder is doinga steam chassis than an early diesel? Or a later diesel?

It sounds like it could be the shims on the armature shaft also. Try different thicknesses of shims, and see if that helps..Steam engines are easy to re-bush, and you don't need a drill press, just a drift and a hammer.

 

I wondered about the shims, but was able to replicate the sound even with the bare chassis. I am going to order new bushings from Doug at Portlines. Time to learn something new.

 

When it comes to right side or left, always assume you are sitting in a car behind the wheel. Drivers side is left, passenger side is right, even if looking at the car coming towards you.Here's a pix showing you the direction.What I do to remove the axle from the chassis is I put the chassis in my small machinists vise with a small 1/4 drive socket on one end.I then tighten the vise and you should see movement of the axle. Once the axle is clear or even with the chassis it's just a matter of a light tap with a hammer and punch to remove it the rest of the way. It goes back the same way. You can't screw it up because the axle will not fit in to bushing. DON"T wack the heck out of the axle with a hammer, press it out!!! If you hit it with gusto, you'll either flatten out the end of the axle, or possibly bend. it.

.

 

Thanks Flyernut!
As always your knowledge is appreciated and essential!
Tim

 

Quick question Flyernut et. al. I have successfully removed my main drive gear and found a replacement off of an old Atlantic parts chassy. The one out of the 336 appears to be a cast and machined gear, whereas the replacement I want to use is just a flat disc that has been machined. To the best of my knowledge, there is only one part number for this part, so I am assuming just different era or even different supplier. I do not see a date stamp in the 336 shell, but the chassy does not have brass bushings, and it had a knuckle coupler. The atlantic chassy did have brass bushings. I just want to make sure there is not a performace difference between these gears before I put in the replacement. I would hate to somehow damage my armature shaft if it is intended to mate with a softer material gear. Any clarification or guidance would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Tim

 

I don't believe the newer gear will harm anything. You 336 was made from 53 -57, so no, there wouldn't be any brass buttons.

 

Thanks Flyernut! I did not mean buttons, the Atlantic chassy has brass bushings that the axles ride in. The 336 does not. I have no idea what shell the Atlantic chassy once wore.