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Discussion Starter #1
Working on this restoration the engine was not very well cared for it stunk with the smell of old cigarettes and was covered with a thin layer of rust forming on the wheels. Upon disassembly I found a roach crawling around inside and what looked like egg sacks!

Otherwise stated it was in need of some love and what I consider a good candidate for restoration. I disassembled, and put all the trucks, wheels and other small parts in a vibrating tumbler with crushed walnut shells for a few hours. Upon removal I sprayed it all down with WD40 to protect against and moisture until I decide next steps.

As for the shell, it being too big to fit in the tumbler, I decided to sandblast and repaint. I've used some high temp black paint I had left over from an old motorcycle exhaust i painted some time ago which appeared to have more of a satin finish. After baking it, the gloss is a bit higher than I prefer so some flat clear coat will go on after applying the numbers.


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I've completed paint and added the water slide decals but this is where I ran into a little trouble. Anyone here have any difficulty with the number decals? Add there've dried the clear background is showing, I'm not sure if this will disappear with the clear coat as it does when water is added.

If it doesn't I can just order a new set it's not like they are expensive.

Any suggestions on how to make them better?


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One thing you can do to hide the decals is trim off as much of the clear part of the decal as possible. That way you only see the numbers with just bit of the clear background. Another thing to do is hit the decals with some Micro-Sol, this will soften the decals and get them to adhere to the surface better and take away some of the milky look. Clearcoat will help hide the edges but it won't take care of the milky look, that will go away with good decal adhesion to the paint.

James
 

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Looking good so far. I'm always wary of old paint. And I have seen satin paint come out near glossy if applied somewhat thicker. And I'm waiting to see the small parts after vibrating in walnut shells. I can't recall, but perhaps T-Man or TJCruiser uses a tumbler and adds a Maquire car finish product to the grit.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I haven't run the engine really. After cleaning up the electrical components I ran it back and forth on my test track. I'm looking forward to geting it all reassembled.

I'm going to have to try the micro-sol With the next set. I also took some wet sandpaper to smooth out the surface a little more

I'll get a pic of the wheels for you tomorrow. I may needf some advice on exactly how to finish them properly.

Thank you all for the input.

Morgan

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Discussion Starter #7
Here are pics of the undercarriage. I haven't done much tp it aside from putting the small parts in the tumbler and cleaning up the main piece a bit. All of it has been sprayed with WD40 to prevent and potential corrosion. I need to clean up the wheels a little more to get remnants of the walnuts out of the spokes.

I'm not sure what the best step is from here there is no serious wear and tear I'll try polishing up the pickups and coupling rods. I don't want't too replace anything original unless it's damaged. And I think the chassis paint will hold up better than anything I put over it.

My only question comes to the outside of the trucks and wheels. Should I put anything on them to protect them? I've seen people mention the main wheels on this model vs the newer one with magnatraction. Though I don't fully understand what that is.

As always input is greatly appreciated.

Morgan


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Magnatraction on the 681 can pick up a single piece of track so it has a little more pulling power than the 671.
For cleaning out the spokes use a soft bristle tooth brush.
 

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Magnatraction on the 681 can pick up a single piece of track so it has a little more pulling power than the 671.
For cleaning out the spokes use a soft bristle tooth brush.
I bought (and sold) a 2037. It could pick up an O-27 straight track, no problem.

Is there a difference in how Lionel applied magnatraction over the years? An individual Loco's handling over time can affect its magnetic properties.
 

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Yes they used different shape magnets for example a 2035 postwar steamer, the 1950 version has a large round magnet and the 1951 version has for lack of proper wording a square type magnet
.I have both and feel the 1950 version is the stronger magnet as its larger.but its weak point is the half moon eccentric crank on the center wheel which wears easily.
When serviced because of a worn crank i have read the wheel assembly was replaced with the 1951 wheel set that used the newer 2 pin design which became the standard eccentric crank for many postwar lionel steam engines .
 
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