Reverse Loop
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Joined
·
845 Posts
Do you have a DPDT switch installed for the reverse loop?
(although it's been so long since I used dc [42+ years], that I can't even remember how to wire one any more!)
(although it's been so long since I used dc [42+ years], that I can't even remember how to wire one any more!)
Yes...but it doesn't seem to help. I probably have the wiring all mixed up. Just unsure what connects to what...
Joined
·
2,210 Posts
I think its easier to use two DPDT switches rather than one external DPDT switch and the internal power pack switch as most power packs only have one speed controlled output. Avoids the problem of having to switch both at the same time. Its also nice to have some sort of indicator lights that can guide you on throwing the proper switch.
Joined
·
1,911 Posts
Your main power, two wires, powers the outer main line and powers the 'input terminals' of your DPDT.
The DPDT's outputs power ONLY the gapped loop.
You only need gaps at the frog rails and at the stock rails immediately past the frog, looking at it from the points end.
That's it. Flip the toggle on the DPDT depending on the way the points are lined. If that doesn't work, your DPDT is defective or you've made some other error.
The DPDT's outputs power ONLY the gapped loop.
You only need gaps at the frog rails and at the stock rails immediately past the frog, looking at it from the points end.
That's it. Flip the toggle on the DPDT depending on the way the points are lined. If that doesn't work, your DPDT is defective or you've made some other error.
Dennis, 100% correct! I had too much hooked into the switch! I followed your instructions and diagram and resolved 3 weeks of frustration! THANK YOU!
Not sure who is saying what ...But you only need 1 DPDT toggle switch for the R loop, not 2..
- On the 6 posts on the toggle, looking at them vertically, the outside 4 corner posts get wires soldered to them. The top left post runs to the bottom right post..The top right post runs to the bottom left post, forming an X shape. (they do not attach to themselves in mid of X) Then the 2 still empty middle posts go to the two rails anywhere in the double gapped loop; the 4 gaps being at the turnout's 4 rails of the diverging end of it. At any one end of the toggle posts run 2 wires (that the X ends connect to) to any 2 rails outside of loop's turnout (you're drawing track power from main line into the loop. Of course leaving enough slack in those wires so as to have enough wiggle room to mount the toggle somewhere convenient to operate it..
- Now, run an engine across the gaps into the loop. Without stopping engine flip the toggle before engine hits the second gaps. Engine will not be affected by doing this. Having also thrown the turnout so he can exit the loop, the train will continue right out of the loop back onto the main....There is no "other toggle" switch needed...M
Geeeez !!! All that typing I did and I think you're correct. I didn't think of that ! Dang ! I remember that when I belonged
to the N scale Belmont Shore MRRC they had a throttle with a F/R toggle on it on the facia at every block. It was the first walk-around system I'd experienced up until the advent of DCC..
Joined
·
1 Posts
You have to get the polarity of the loop to match the rest as the train enters it, then switch the polarity of the rest prior to the engine crossing the insulators on the exit side. You use the DPDT to switch around the polarity of the loop, wired directly to the power pack, (not through your reverse switch), then use the existing reverse switch (also a DPDT) to flip the rest while train is in the loop. When I ran HO, I wired LED's across the insulators to remind me to flip the polarities.
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!