We use Solidworks... but that's an expensive program. My son gets a free Student license because he's studying engineering, so no help there. Sorry.
That's why it's often beneficial to invest in your own printer. Once you get the STL file (or create your own -- most of the items you're talking about wouldn't be hard), you can print unlimited copies for the price of a little filament or resin.I know of Shapeways but have not yet bought anything from anyone there. Telephone pole transformers, those bbq style propane tanks, and gas station type ice machines would appeal to me. Maybe little things like a birdbath, but I can scratch build most of those. I was debating an NW5 shell that someone offers, but in the lowest quality the shell was about $100…. Minus all details and of course the frame. Decided to pass. A variety of pickup truck bed caps would be nice though. And if someone made a 1970s van or two with separate doors included (to model them open) I’d certainly buy half a dozen of those.
It depends on how the designer created it. Sometimes a designer sets a high infill that results in higher costs, sometimes significantly. You definitely have to be careful on there. Some are outrageously expensive, some are reasonable and occasionally outright cheap.I know of Shapeways but have not yet bought anything from anyone there. Telephone pole transformers, those bbq style propane tanks, and gas station type ice machines would appeal to me. Maybe little things like a birdbath, but I can scratch build most of those. I was debating an NW5 shell that someone offers, but in the lowest quality the shell was about $100…. Minus all details and of course the frame. Decided to pass. A variety of pickup truck bed caps would be nice though. And if someone made a 1970s van or two with separate doors included (to model them open) I’d certainly buy half a dozen of those.
This is the one I use. It does have the "Vase mode" and it is free. I have a ender 3pro,ender 5 and it works great with a anycubic. I had one of those too.Which slicer software do you use? The proprietary Anycubic one doesn’t hollow out shapes and fillmore with with honeycomb lattice.. My understanding is that you have to design the model that way?
Also, looking at this reply again, I think we need to make a distinction between filament printers and resin ones. Because the extruder head has to trace the entire area of the print and fill in solid structures, I can see how this would be wasteful, of time, more so than filament (although there is that too). A resin printer can (and does) print an entire layer 0.1mm thick and up to the cross section of the print bed, in one shot. Print time is measured not by the complexity of the print, but by the number of layers that must be deposited. An extremely large figure (for 25mm gaming scale) measuring 1.5" wide x 3" long x 5-1/2" high only weighs a couple of ounces, and still requires a fairly wide base to be stable. I think a hollow figure, even at this scale, would be too light to be practical, unless you were going to weight the base somehow.Just catching up on this thread (not sure how I missed it before). I converted your original file to an STL so I could take a look at it. I'm not sure if it's the conversion process or the details in the original file, but this model is sized at only 6.6mm wide. What size is it supposed to be? Realistically this should be split up into three different pieces so they can be laid flat on the bed. As it stands, this model would be a real bear to print because it would need a ton of supports. I've split things up in tinkercad though, it's not very difficult.
As already mentioned, the slicer software will create an internal honeycomb to provide support, but no software should print a model 100% solid unless you specifically set it up to do that. There's generally no benefit to the strength of larger models and it would just be a waste of filament. However for delicate figures like CTValley mentioned, I could definitely see the benefit there.
You had previously asked about the Ender 3 printer. I have the version 1 model and it could easily print something like these entry gates. There's not a lot of detail to them. You might want to use a sanding block to smooth out the final print, and it pays to take the time to use smaller layers. On the other hand, the caged dinosaur has a lot more detail to it but if you used a small layer height and slowed down the print speed a bit you could get something pretty decent. If you switched over to a 0.2mm nozzle it would also greatly improve the detail. I have printed some flatcars in HO and HOn3, which give me enough detail for the frame and coupler pockets but I haven't had any luck printing the stake pockets yet. If you do go with a filament printer like the Ender 3, do some searching for profiles used to print miniatures -- those guys really have it nailed and are getting some absolutely incredible detail from these printers (and this is probably what I need in order to get better detail in my flatcars).
Not sure, really. I have no basis for comparison. Resin printers are not speedy though. Build plate dips into the resin vat, UV light is on for about 10 seconds to cure the layer, build plate retracts, letting more resin fill in under it, then dips again. This cycle takes about 45 seconds to complete, and it has made a layer 0.1 mm thick. 10 of those (or about 7-1/2 minutes to print 1 mm; 25mm for a man-sized figure means over 3-1/2 hours... and the first few layers have much longer cure times. I figure about 4 hours for a human sized figure approximately 1" tall. But it takes no longer to print 8 figures of that size side by side on the build plate. Twice that height would take twice as long, roughly. I think the print head in a filament printer is moving much more rapidly, though.Interesting, by your description I assume that a resin print takes significantly less time than the same print in a filament printer?
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