A resin printer doesn't laser anything -- unless you're referring to very high end industrial ones. The ones in our price range use a UV LED the size of the build plate to print an entire "slice" (layer) 0.1mm thick at once. It doesn't matter whether that is one little part 2mm on diameter, one huge piece the exact size of the build plate, or 500 little unconnected pieces scattered all around the area. One layer, one dip of the build plate, 40 seconds. 10 layers = 400 seconds, 100 layers = 4000 seconds (more than an hour, and that's only 10mm high or less than 1/2"). There is no motion other than the up and down dipping of the build plate, and that has to be slow enough to allow a new layer of viscous resin to completely fill underneath the build plate and the partially printed model. Print duration is determined by 3 things (only): speed of movement on the build plate Z axis, cure time set for each layer (it's variable for different resins and operating conditions), with the first 20 or so layers set for a longer exposure time; and the number of layers to be printed, which is determined solely by the height of the printed item. The number or volume of pieces printed in each layer is irrelevant. Think of old fashioned acetate overlays for maps, anatomy drawings, or whatever.Seems like its 8x resin or filament. resin may laser a little faster, but it will still take 8x to do the movement. Filament printers can also print different colors
I partially agree. I'm not sure about the zeroing process. The resin printers are pretty easy to set up and level.actually no, fdm printers are less fiddly [i have both] ... the resin printer needs more cleanup, both the printer and the image .
it's really pretty simple, if you want rain water barrels as an example, you would pick a printer that closely matches on size, fdm for HO and larger... resin fr N and smaller ..
nice and simple ....