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Nice Pennsy there Bob! I never have much luck picking up matching unpowered units. The later Pennsylvania scheme was pretty flat, as was the Penn Central, but the later scheme is still good looking, with the keystones on the Brunswick green paint. Great engines.

Tom
 

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Did a kit bash using a K-Line EP5 as a base model and made a Penn Central E40. It is a TMCC equipped engine with a YLB installed. I did the paint and decal work. Weathering will be the final step...

Tom

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Tom ,
that PENN CENTRAL electric looks awesome , just a suggestion , to get a light grunge haze and to keep it where you want it or wipe off . I watched PLASMO on YT . seal your black with gloss acrylic , then mix cheap artist oils to the desired grime color , apply liberally then remove with q tips or paper towel , the oil will not react to the acrylic and vise versa , leave heavy in some areas and light in others , the oil takes a long time to dry and can even be removed with mineral spirits , my DT&I above , no air brush was used . Cheap craft paints (Anitas) . I practiced on an old shell to get the hang of it .It really is easy to get super effects , MIG JIMENEZ , on YT as well on chipping paint and rust . Solid black lends itself to fading so well for a realistic effect .
Once all done you may not even need to seal the final paint .
 

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Thanks! That is a method I never heard of. It will be interesting to give it a try. I have done airbrush weathering in the past, but your method sounds like a way to go.

Of course, anything I accomplish will never be as great looking as your creations. Your stuff looks great!

Tom
 

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Tom ,
i use to do airbrush mist , but when I saw these guys on you tube using simple things and cheap paints , as they say practice makes perfect . If you can find it PLEDGE FLOOR CARE witha label that says 2X more shine . It is what a lot of guys use as a sealer I put it on with a q tip self leveling , once it dries , hard as nails , then apply the oils , Hobby Lobby sells a cheap 20 $ set of colors .
It is sort of like staining wood , wipe on wipe off but the oils are thicker , I do thin it a little but just swab it all over and them start removing it , wiping hard on the more clean areas and softer around areas where the grime collects . Best thing is if it does not look right a light mineral spirits on a brush and off it comes , start over . Once you do have it looking like you want just leave it to dries may take 2 days . Then do the other side . And once it does dry it may have a sheen you can light dull coat it and for enhance even more use the acrylic craft paints in washes over the work and then use water to thin and blend it and then let it sit . Practice on an old boxcar , and look at real trains how the streaks and grime forms it is not just one layer or color , the guys that when contests some use all brushes . remember grime get wet from rain and all goes straight vertical , so keep that in mind .
 

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Also Jim at HIGHBALL GRAPHICS has lots of decals , a many are not posted . He is a good guy , fair on price , decal creation takes time , but anything worth doing , takes time to do it right .
 

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Thanks again for the tips. I also looked at Highball Graphics. Nice stuff. I am putting together an order for a couple boxcar and tank car decal sets. I am looking forward to exploring the technique.

Tom
 

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I finally finished my Western Maryland coal train to go along with my Lionel Shay. Grzyboski's had a heck of a deal on the Lionel 3 packs of hoppers and I found the Northeastern caboose on ebay as previously posted, so I was able to put it all together in short order. I haven't had a chance to run it together yet, but it looks good as a set at least.
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