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Okay. I opened up the Erie K5 tender. From what I can tell, the capacitors are “SunCon” if I am looking at the right component.

Tom

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If your new to soldering, I suggest looking up a few YouTube videos. It's as much art as it is science.

And if your ordering from Digikey, I recommend adding this solder wick to the order for a couple of bucks. The copper braid will absorb most of the solder used on the original part. That will make it easier to remove. Once the braid has wicked the excess solder, you snip off the used end to expose fresh braid.

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Thanks Mike. I never heard of that material. I have done basic soldering but nothing too advanced or small. The tips will come in handy. Everything is on YouTube!

Tom
 

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Tom, this is the problematic capacitor, check for a brand, anything but WINCAP is desired. :D FWIW, I doubt solder wick is going to help with this extraction. What I do is spring the two boards as far apart as I can without breaking anything and prop them in that orientation. Then I clip the leads of the cap as short as possible. Finally, I reach in with a long narrow tip soldering iron and hit the far lead and tilt the cap toward the outside of the board. Do the near lead and tilt it the other way. Usually about two cycles and the cap is out. Clean out the holes and solder the new cap in.

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Thanks John. I was lucky with this one. I have a PRR Premier 2-8-0, Q2 and a 4-4-2 that are 5 volt. I will be checking them soon.

Thanks for the tip on removing the unwanted capacitor. Your experience is priceless!

Tom
 

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Mike, the way the PCB is designed on the 5V board, there is too much copper around the holes for solder wick to work well. What happens is the large copper ground plane sucks the heat out that would be melting the solder pretty effectively. Truthfully, I normally crank up the iron to 600-650F and heat the plugged hole. Then I RAP the board upside down on my bench and the solder flies out. Even that doesn't always work. In that case, I simply heat the existing solder from below and press the cap lead into it on the top and just clear the hole with the lead.
 

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Thanks John, another special case.

A couple of years ago a friend gave me in a small soft plastic bottle with a needle applicator; some type of acid acting as a flux. Put a drop on the braid, heat the braid with the iron while holding it to the solder joint This removes virtually all the solder. Many times you can remove the part after the solder has cooled. I've been (de)soldering a long time and this is by far the best desoldering technique I've ever used. I haven't used the vacuum sucker since I got the wick and acid.
 

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Thanks John, another special case.

A couple of years ago a friend gave me in a small soft plastic bottle with a needle applicator; some type of acid acting as a flux. Put a drop on the braid, heat the braid with the iron while holding it to the solder joint This removes virtually all the solder. Many times you can remove the part after the solder has cooled. I've been (de)soldering a long time and this is by far the best desoldering technique I've ever used. I haven't used the vacuum sucker since I got the wick and acid.
Thats why you want to get braid with flux. It is available with and without. If you have braid without flux best to use a rosin flux with it. Both are many times faster at absorbing solder than braid without flux.
One of many from Digikey.


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I picked up a MTH Erie PA1 from a seller on OGR. It was a limited run of Erie engines sponsored by Mr Muffins. I missed out on the original release, but found a fellow who was selling off some of his Erie collection. Mr Muffins had two road numbers produced. The 853 and 859. I wanted the 859.

The real Erie PA1 859 started life painted in the Erie black and yellow paint scheme. It was involved in a deadly head on collision in the 1950s in Sloatsburg NY. It was rebuilt and eventually received the new Erie two tone green passenger scheme. It labored pulling long distance trains on the Erie mainline and doing duty on commuter runs in NY and NJ for the Erie and later Erie Lackawanna. They even saw service in freight before they were eventually stricken from the roster.

I added a few details to the MTH model. The Erie two tone green PAs were pretty clean, detail wise, so this one didn’t need much added detail. I installed a firecracker antenna and some MU hoses on the front pilot...

Tom

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I picked up a MTH Erie PA1 from a seller on OGR. It was a limited run of Erie engines sponsored by Mr Muffins. I missed out on the original release, but found a fellow who was selling off some of his Erie collection. Mr Muffins had two road numbers produced. The 853 and 859. I wanted the 859.

The real Erie PA1 859 started life painted in the Erie black and yellow paint scheme. It was involved in a deadly head on collision in the 1950s in Sloatsburg NY. It was rebuilt and eventually received the new Erie two tone green passenger scheme. It labored pulling long distance trains on the Erie mainline and doing duty on commuter runs in NY and NJ for the Erie and later Erie Lackawanna. They even saw service in freight before they were eventually stricken from the roster.

I added a few details to the MTH model. The Erie two tone green PAs were pretty clean, detail wise, so this one didn’t need much added detail. I installed a firecracker antenna and some MU hoses on the front pilot...

Tom

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That’s a nice looking locomotive.
 

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That’s a nice looking locomotive.
Thanks Bryan. It is nice in that the dark green is in fact, dark like it should be. I was a little hesitant with buying this engine as the photos I had seen of it, showed the green as too vivid.

I actually prefer the earlier black and yellow scheme, but the green kinda grows on you!

Tom
 
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